3D Printer/Printing thread

[morg176]

Is anyone else interested in 3D printing?

Ive been interested in this since about 2005 but only this year have the prices of hobby 3D printers been reasonable for the thin walleted.

all thoughts and comments welcom

[UltraMagnus]

Is anyone else interested in 3D printing?

Ive been interested in this since about 2005 but only this year have the prices of hobby 3D printers been reasonable for the thin walleted.

all thoughts and comments welcome

Hi Morg

Spacepet is about to release a 3D printer for $399USD ($386AUD) called Toystructor. It is about the size of an A4 sheet of paper and can easily fit on a desk. People will be able to print all types of things on it, and we are setting up a secondary product (toystruction) where you can download free 3D STL files so you can download and print them up (i.e. Building blocks, action figure templates etc).

We will be offering a discount for Ozformers members as they have been Spacepet's biggest supporters.

[UltraMarginal]

While I'm not trying to compete in anyway with Spacepet (which I'm personally very excited about).

If you are looking to get something printed in the short term, try www.shapeways.com
they are fairly well priced and the strong flexible product is very good.

[KalEl]

interesting stuff, 3d printing fascinates me :)

[Slag]

i'm interested..

[Deonasis]

Sooo very interested.. sooo many ideas, i just need to invest in my skills.

[KillinSpoon]

I did a bit of 3d printing at uni two years ago using a variety of different printers.
It is way too expensive to be practical, unfortunately. It's cool to mess around with though!

[morg176]

wasnt sure if people in here would be interested in 3D printing. Ive been interested in it for a good few years. The machine Im looking at is the PP3DP UP! printer from china, although Ill be buying mine from a reseller in Au or nz.

the printer gives very good detail and a relatively smooth finish so it is quite impressive, and it recently halved in price. it uses plastic to make things/parts [same stuff lego is made of].

it is also cool that you can use an xbox kinect as a 3d scanner, with software to scan people and then print them.

intent to use this at school [primary] too.

[morg176]

what would you make with a 3D printer? [and the obligatory 3D modelling skills]

[morg176]

what would design and make on a 3D printer? better weapons for your favourite figure, a shield? your fav starship?

what have you always wanted but could never make, till now?

[Trent]

Impossible to find replacement parts for those no longer in production items perhaps?

[morg176]

or a little targetmaster weapon of your own. a cassette that turns into a parrot

[Slag]

i wanted a short neck for g,f,b, maximus.. help him see a bit more

[morg176]

still saving for it...sigh

[Tober]

I've done some 3D printing too. It's still kinda expensive.

Beware of the 'enthusiast' printers too, they are rather rubbish. Yes Makerbot, I'm looking at you...

I'm currently trying to assemble a 3D scanner. Unfortunately I'm basically pretty stupid, so it's taking a while... Otherwise I could probably just buy a NextEngine for about $4K + shipping + import tax... screw it, I'll do it myself...

[morg176]

the PP3DP "UP!" 3D printer is considered to be by far the best quality hobbyist 3D printer on the market. The price recently dropped from nearly $3k to only $1500. this is the one that I am saving for. gives a good finish and 0.2mm layer resolution.

As far as scanners go, an xbox conect and some software off the net 'reconstruvtme' may be the way to go :D

[morg176]

What type of accessories for your transformers would you made for your transformers?

Maybe a weapons/engines for your new data disks?

What would you make:D?

[Tober]

Continued from the Vent thread:


3d printing systems held the promotion that i missed out on. I have contacted them and although they were apologetic that i missed out ireally dont think they cared much. The promotion was an american 'black friday' style sale. 100's of people interested, only a couple [less than 10] units up for grabs.
Why you would go out of your way to aggravate, infuriate and alienate you potential customer base, defies logic...

that being said, The UP plus printer [available from 3d printing systems au/nz] is probably the best hobbyist 3D printer on the market, but it is still just a little expensive. The up plus has a metal chassis, and is very sturdy. The up mini has a smaller build envelope

And yes you could design a weapon/sword/mace in sketchup, and then convert that into an STL file, send that to the printer and [these machines are slow!] it will build it for you. Awesome yes.

I have been closely following this technology since early 2005. :D

So when it says it can print "Layer resolution of 200 microns." what is a 'layer'?

I get most of the models I get printed are through Moddler.com who have a resolution of:


In the X and Y axes, we can print at a resolution of 600 dpi or 42 microns. In the Z axis, we can print in a mind-bogglingly small 1600 dpi or 16 microns. (A micron is 1/1000th of a millimeter.) That's about 20% as thick as a human hair!

So I remain somewhat dubious of the quality as I'm told that even the best 3D printers can't actually print detail less than 0.2mm. And even then you will need finishing skills to refine the model.

[Bidoofdude]

As I said before, we should really start an initiative with hasbro, if we can get enough support. There are lots of possibilities. Heads, weapons, spare parts, etc.
Really good.

[morg176]

So when it says it can print "Layer resolution of 200 microns." what is a 'layer'?

I get most of the models I get printed are through Moddler.com who have a resolution of:

So I remain somewhat dubious of the quality as I'm told that even the best 3D printers can't actually print detail less than 0.2mm. And even then you will need finishing skills to refine the model.

The model you send to the 3d printer is printed one layer on top of another. Each layer can be as thin as 200 microns. but of course it is not as simple as that. Would you be able to post a link of a picture of the stuff you get printed? perhaps with a close up?

As for models from hastak, start up sketchup and try to design your own!

[Tober]

The model you send to the 3d printer is printed one layer on top of another. Each layer can be as thin as 200 microns. but of course it is not as simple as that. Would you be able to post a link of a picture of the stuff you get printed? perhaps with a close up?

I don't have a camera that is capable of decent macro. I'll see if I can get it done later this week.

This is a client approval pic of the model from the printer himself:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj230/AUST_Tober/cu2.jpg

That grill mesh used to be 0.2mm in diameter, but I had to increase the width to 0.5 or it wouldn't survive the cleaning processes. I also had to increase the shell thickness from 0.5 to 1mm or it could warp or be too fragile.

.

[UltraMarginal]

That grill mesh used to be 0.2mm in diameter, but I had to increase the width to 0.5 or it wouldn't survive the cleaning processes. I also had to increase the shell thickness from 0.5 to 1mm or it could warp or be too fragile.

.

That sounds about similar to my experiences with Shapeways

[morg176]

thats a nice print.
if i may ask, what did it cost to get that printed?
and how long did it take?

[Tober]

That sounds about similar to my experiences with Shapeways

Yeah, Shapeways have been remarkably unimpressive lately, apparently. :(


thats a nice print.
if i may ask, what did it cost to get that printed?
and how long did it take?

Thanks. Looks nice in that photo. A macro photo would expose the stepping tho.

It was $35 from Moddler.com for the 56 x 20 x 50mm shell.

shaapeways.com wanted $8 for 'Strong and Flexible', $12 for 'Fine Detail'
ownage.com wanted $100
clayboxstudio.com wanted $300... yeah... maybe they confused mm for cm or maybe not...

[morg176]

thats a huge price range difference.
one of the problems i guess.
I've had ideas and simple designs in my head for decades. but the only way i can make some of what i design is to 3d print it.
just waiting for a decent price. Im a bit of a scrooge.
i could also use in in school.

sigh

[Tober]

and how long did it take?

Oops! Forgot the time-frame. :o

It was within three business days, which is their standard. I think you can request a faster turn-around if you're under a deadline or something.

I'd be eager to see some un-finished macros of what the home 3D printers can produce.

[morg176]

when I eventually purchase an up, I'll be sure to post a photo, I do have a sample printed on the up. Ill see if I can get a decent macro.

[gamblor916]

Anyone have a spare 2k lying around? This Miicraft printer looks promising. (http://www.miicraft.com/)

[Tober]

Anyone have a spare 2k lying around? This Miicraft printer looks promising. (http://www.miicraft.com/)

Looks good, but the size of the output models seems too small to be of much use to me. :(

[GoktimusPrime]

If they can print a prosthetic robot hand for a child (http://abcnews.go.com/blogs/technology/2013/02/south-african-boy-gets-robotic-hand-made-with-3-d-printer/), then surely they can design Transformers accessories for fans to download and print :confused:

[Bidoofdude]

If they can print a prosthetic robot hand for a child (http://abcnews.go.com/blogs/technology/2013/02/south-african-boy-gets-robotic-hand-made-with-3-d-printer/), then surely they can design Transformers accessories for fans to download and print :confused:

There are. Shapeways has all kinds.
They cost money though.:(

[morg176]

saw this on a 3d printing site called 3ders.org
very cool

who wants a big freaking gun

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130308-review-3d-printed-transformers-skyquake-massive-minigun.html

:D

[Autocon]

Today I saw an ad for 3d printing on TV. Some sort of engineering firm.Looks cool.:cool:

[morg176]

indeed it does look cool.
that is one of the things that got me interested in 3d printing, followed it since 2005. Still saving for one [An Up Plus 3d printer]. But instead of just sketching something, actually building it. And without the loss of fingers or skin on the smaller fidley bits. power tools are not my friend :D

[Deonasis]

Free handlebar moustaches for all Transformers!!

Forget the modelling, how about some 3D freeform drawings instead? http://www.the3doodler.com/


(It is not very practical for this thread I know and it has been online for a while but hot-damn that is cool!)

[Bidoofdude]

THAT LOOKS SWEEEET!
How much are those pens?:cool:

[Deonasis]

THAT LOOKS SWEEEET!
How much are those pens?:cool:there is a kickstarter link on the page i posted above. I think you could get one + plastic for $50 before but that supporter package has since sold out and the cheapest option now is $75 + more plastic.

Kickstarter direct link: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1351910088/3doodler-the-worlds-first-3d-printing-pen

[morg176]

finally got the 3d printer (Up Plus 2) and after a motherboard change got it working. very happy with it thus far :D

[Tober]

finally got the 3d printer (Up Plus 2) and after a motherboard change got it working. very happy with it thus far :D

Do you have any results to show off?

I'm getting more and more tempted to buy one every day, but I still don't think they're quite there yet. :rolleyes:

[1AZRAEL1]

Do you have any results to show off?

I'm getting more and more tempted to buy one every day, but I still don't think they're quite there yet. :rolleyes:

I'm the same. Plus I need my money elsewhere atm lol

[Lord_Zed]

I'm getting more and more tempted to buy one every day, but I still don't think they're quite there yet. :rolleyes:

Same here, the things people are starting to do with 3D printers is getting quite impressive and interesting, certainly I imagine 3D printers have contributed greatly to the proliferation of 3rd party products.

It will be interesting to where we are 10 years from now, and not just regarding hobbies, will we be printing house hold objects out at home? And then there will be the looming issue of copyright of objects, or at least the template thereof.


If they can print a prosthetic robot hand for a child (http://abcnews.go.com/blogs/technology/2013/02/south-african-boy-gets-robotic-hand-made-with-3-d-printer/), then surely they can design Transformers accessories for fans to download and print :confused:

I'm sure that's the last thing Hasbro and other toymakers want. ;)

[Tober]

As long as Hasbro can create and distribute toys cheaper than we can print and assemble them, including tampo printing and chroming, they will be fine.

ABS plastic is expensive and one of the primary reasons Hasbro gave for reducing the scale and complexity of their toy lines.

[lancalot]

there was an article on pc authority (http://http://www.pcauthority.com.au/Feature/357481,how-to-3d-printing-the-myths-and-the-reality.aspx/1)that they did a test to print a logo piece , from a home 3d printer ...and it cost a lot more and nowhere near as good as buying one ....so it still need a lot of improvement until we can do it at home.

[Tober]

there was an article on pc authority (http://http://www.pcauthority.com.au/Feature/357481,how-to-3d-printing-the-myths-and-the-reality.aspx/1)that they did a test to print a logo piece , from a home 3d printer ...and it cost a lot more and nowhere near as good as buying one ....so it still need a lot of improvement until we can do it at home.

Thanks for that. :)

Yeah, that's what I figured from other articles I read. 'Make' magazine did an entire issue devoted to comparing 3D printers about a year ago, and they came across as having a long way to go before it's as easy as using a 2D printer.

The 'Up Plus' (the original 'Afinia H-Series', not the 'Up Plus 2') came across as being one of the better ones. The 'Up Plus 2' is supposed to be even better.

[morg176]

It is. I have one : )

What sort of accessories would you be interested in?
Knowing that colours are limited and...
Each piece has to be designed.

Thoughts..

[Tober]

It is. I have one : )

What sort of accessories would you be interested in?
Knowing that colours are limited and...
Each piece has to be designed.

Thoughts..

Ultimately I'd be interested in puting together small kits with ball-joints.

First though there are some modification parts I'd like to test out for a transforming motorcycle. If you're willing to take on smallish jobs I could pay you for your time and materials... If only to see what the Up Plus 2 is actually capable of.

[morg176]

I'll consider it
Do you have the parts designed in a watertight (solid) *.stl file

[Tober]

They are OBJ files. But I should be able to output to STL if necessary.

Does the UP+2 support boolean objects - single output objects comprised of multiple overlapping meshes?

[morg176]

To tell the truth I don't know.
Generally, if the stl is waterproof and made of only solids, it 'should' be OK.
But nothing is guaranteed

[Tober]

To tell the truth I don't know.
Generally, if the stl is waterproof and made of only solids, it 'should' be OK.
But nothing is guaranteed

Okay, I will tinker with the files tomorrow and PM you to see if we can work something out. :)

[morg176]

No worries

[AJ_Prime]

A friend of mine at work bought a 3D printer, but as several have said, it is very expensive for the materials and a pain in the ass to set up. Even then, sometimes the prints aren't perfect and they can vary, dependent on a number of factors.

The end result is generally pretty good though, although he hasn't managed to get a perfect print yet, although almost perfect. However the models need sanding as you can quite easily make out the ridges from the printing process (layer by layer).

I have very little experience with 3D modelling, I've only done a handful of models so far, so I have enormous amounts of respect for people who have mastered the art of 3D computer modelling. It's not easy, and there are copious amounts of tools available, most of which I have no idea how to use. I'm still experimenting, and suspect I will be for a very long time (considering I barely any time lately to pursue that hobby).

My experience with Shapeways has generally been quite good, in terms of getting my model printed, however the cost is quite huge. Especially regarding the shipping. That seems to be the killer.

I would be interested to see the outcome of any models you decide to print, I'm fascinated by some of the designs I've seen on Shapeways, as well as models people create for other purposes, eg gaming, architectural, marketing, showcasing etc. It's just amazing how far graphic design has come, as well as the purposes it is used for.

I would imagine that within the next 5 to 10 years as the technology increases and becomes more widely available, the price of 3D printers and scanners will come down and will be a lot easier to use.

[morg176]

yeah mine can be a temperamental pain if the file to be printed isnt what it wants, but other times it just works perfectly.

:D

[morg176]

Here is a link to a generic weapon for any transformer with a 5mm grip.
I'm still new at this, tell me what you think.

http://morg176.deviantart.com/art/Jackie-new-gun-426411883?ga_submit_new=10%253A1389522768

:D

[lancalot]

Here is a link to a generic weapon for any transformer with a 5mm grip.
I'm still new at this, tell me what you think.

http://morg176.deviantart.com/art/Jackie-new-gun-426411883?ga_submit_new=10%253A1389522768

:D

hey that turn out good !!! nice .... so how long did it take to print??

[morg176]

It took about 45-50min the second time I printed it. The first time it went all pear shaped.
Sometimes that happens. :D

[Tober]

Nice gun morg176. :)

[Trent]

I'm designing a stand for my YF-19. When designing interlocking parts, similar to the 2 part SMS stands that come with the Frontier Valks or the MP seeker stands, what sort of clearances (if any) do you leave between the interlocking parts so that they are a snug fit, but don't bind or jam? I'm thinking 0.1mm even if the accuracy for Shapeways printing strong, flexible plastic is only 0.15mm.

[morg176]

I'm designing a stand for my YF-19. When designing interlocking parts, similar to the 2 part SMS stands that come with the Frontier Valks or the MP seeker stands, what sort of clearances (if any) do you leave between the interlocking parts so that they are a snug fit, but don't bind or jam? I'm thinking 0.1mm even if the accuracy for Shapeways printing strong, flexible plastic is only 0.15mm.

I havent made any interlocking parts yet but as close as you can get is always better I find.
What is the physical size of the part/parts of the stand you are designing?

You can post here or pm me, either is cool :D

[Tilarta]

I've been purchasing a fair number of accessories from Shapeways and I've got plans to purchase more of them.

But I'm now at the point where I have some ideas I want to design myself, since they're kindof personalised.

I did dabble a bit with some of the 3D modelling programs Shapeways recommended, but I couldn't quite get them to work.
Blender is one that has been consistently irritating me ever since I tried (and failed) to use it to make a Fallout 4 mod.

Does anyone know of a way I can get started into simple design for 3D printing?Ideally with a program that isn't complex.

[UltraMarginal]

As someone who's used to using Creo and CATIA, there aren't many cheap/free CAD packages that don't irritate me to tears.

having said that I think 123D is something I could get used to if I spent enough time on it, and it's fairly powerful. A lot of students use it.

[Tilarta]

I basically want a simple, bare bones program.

What I am seeking is a program that allows you to build shapes by simply dragging shapes onto the screen, then altering the size/appearance by grabbing onscreen handles.

I don’t need anything more complex then that, since I’m just sculpting a 3D object virtually.

The main problem with Blender, as far as I could see, is it was geared for computer game animation and had too many controls/features to support that.
My quip is I’m not looking for a program that can launch space shuttles, but one that folds paper airplanes.
The KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) principle applied to programming.

[UltraMarginal]

I can't help you with that.

my advice is to google search 'best free CAD modelling software' or something along those lines and try a few out. I tried a few non-parametric CAD packages several years ago and hated them all.

[gamblor916]

Just got a couple of prints from Shapeways and the results are pretty good. There's still a bit of cleanup to do but all the detail is there and nicely defined.
The blurry thing is a 10 cent coin for scale.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7911/32598524747_b736530073_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7887/46625613225_616af64e5f_o.jpg

[Tober]

That's some nice modeling! :eek:

Are you modeling in Studio Max?

[i_amtrunks]

Anyone ever bought 3D printed LEGO train track? Or printed their own?
I really want a wye point or double crossover but I am balling at the $70 price point that some companies want to charge for what seems to be something I may be able to print for about 1/3of that.

[gamblor916]

That's some nice modeling! :eek:

Are you modeling in Studio Max?

Coming from you thanks! Yeah I'm using 3dsMax.

[Raider]

Just got a couple of prints from Shapeways and the results are pretty good. There's still a bit of cleanup to do but all the detail is there and nicely defined.
The blurry thing is a 10 cent coin for scale.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7911/32598524747_b736530073_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7887/46625613225_616af64e5f_o.jpg

The detail on those looks amazing, especially given the size. Nice.

[Tilarta]

Anyone ever bought 3D printed LEGO train track? Or printed their own?
I really want a wye point or double crossover but I am balling at the $70 price point that some companies want to charge for what seems to be something I may be able to print for about 1/3of that.

I looked that item up on Shapeways out of curiosity:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=lego+train+tracks

They're quite costly, averaging around 50-60 AUD.


I'm still looking to find a simple program for 3D modelling.
Preferably something specifically designed for 3D printing.

The reason why I want a program for that specific purpose is to avoid something like Blender with additional functions for ingame animation, texturing, scaling etc.
All of that is unnecessary for 3D modelling.

[gamblor916]

The detail on those looks amazing, especially given the size. Nice.

Cheers. They turned out better than I expected though they still need a fair amount of cleanup straight from the printers.


I'm still looking to find a simple program for 3D modelling.
Preferably something specifically designed for 3D printing.

The reason why I want a program for that specific purpose is to avoid something like Blender with additional functions for ingame animation, texturing, scaling etc.
All of that is unnecessary for 3D modelling.

From what I understand Blender is very similar to 3dsmax so it's a very capable program and there's a bit of a learning curve. That said my modeling skills were at a really low level when I started using max and now I feel that I can model anything I need to print, however complex the shape. You can go simple and use primitives as starting blocks or go straight to poly modeling. All the other functions like animation etc you can just easily ignore or move off the screen.

[Tilarta]

I don't remember what program it was, but my first introduction to 3D modelling was a simplified program I used to build objects for the Tomb Raider Level Editor program.

It basically just consisted of an interface that allowed you to draw shapes onscreen, then pull the size/shape around by "grabbing" handles.

That's what I'm looking for, a simple program that is just about drawing/modelling and nothing else.

I spent one hour in Blender trying to figure out how to sculpt a 5mm post and never actually figured it out.
Prior to that, I'd been tinkering around with the program for roughly a year trying to create objects for a Fallout 4 mod and never succeeded.

So given that I just don't understand Blender despite all the time I've invested in learning it, I'm not going to waste any more time that could be dedicated to working with a better program.


I'm also still trying to work out how exactly to relate an object to a real world item.
My test case is I'm trying to build an external shell device for Sludge and am uncertain how I can sculpt an object to precisely fit around his apatosaurus mode without printing it multiple times to check I got the size and post positions right.

I don't actually have a 3D printer at home, so I'll have to rely on the virtual model until I figure out how to print my test models conveniently.

[UltraMarginal]

you can get a fairly cheap set of digital calipers from eBay to measure your interface with. they're not perfect, or of particularly high quality but for small modelling work they are acceptable, certainly compared to the cost of a professional set. then model that up. Once you have that you can assembly your new design to that and check tolerances etc.

unfortunately, even then you're going to probably go through multiple iterations, that is the nature of design and engineering of prototypes.

I can't get over the cost of that lego track on shapeways.

[i_amtrunks]

I can't get over the cost of that lego track on shapeways.

It seems to be a comparible price. I think you’re paying for the trial and error and the painfulness of making it fully compatible with the Lego track. It amazes me that Lego have not done Wye points or another double switchover in over a decade. Seems very out of touch to not cater their fan base and leave it to third parties. Even if they charged $50 for a pair of wyes it’d be a good deal.

I’m eyeing off the Wye points and the curved points, if anyone here wants to print a set I’d be happy to give them the $60 instead an overseas company! :D

[Tilarta]

From BrickLink (representing 4DBrix):
https://store.bricklink.com/4DBrix_Europe?itemID=140618930#/shop?o={"invID":"140618930"}

4DBrix website:
https://www.4dbrix.com/index.php

[i_amtrunks]

From BrickLink (representing 4DBrix):
https://store.bricklink.com/4DBrix_Europe?itemID=140618930#/shop?o={"invID":"140618930"}

4DBrix website:
https://www.4dbrix.com/index.php

Thanks, that's one of the sites I was looking at, once postage is factored in, they are the best in terms of price and quality.

[Trent]

It seems to be a comparible price. I think you’re paying for the trial and error and the painfulness of making it fully compatible with the Lego track. It amazes me that Lego have not done Wye points or another double switchover in over a decade. Seems very out of touch to not cater their fan base and leave it to third parties. Even if they charged $50 for a pair of wyes it’d be a good deal.

I’m eyeing off the Wye points and the curved points, if anyone here wants to print a set I’d be happy to give them the $60 instead an overseas company! :D

I can’t believe there’s no official option for a powered switch track. Even if I want to go for a third party, there’s only wired options available that I’ve found. I’m hopeful with the new Powered Up controller being bluetoooth that they can sort something out.

[Tober]

I don't remember what program it was, but my first introduction to 3D modelling was a simplified program I used to build objects for the Tomb Raider Level Editor program.

It basically just consisted of an interface that allowed you to draw shapes onscreen, then pull the size/shape around by "grabbing" handles.

That's what I'm looking for, a simple program that is just about drawing/modelling and nothing else.

I spent one hour in Blender trying to figure out how to sculpt a 5mm post and never actually figured it out.
Prior to that, I'd been tinkering around with the program for roughly a year trying to create objects for a Fallout 4 mod and never succeeded.

So given that I just don't understand Blender despite all the time I've invested in learning it, I'm not going to waste any more time that could be dedicated to working with a better program.


I'm also still trying to work out how exactly to relate an object to a real world item.
My test case is I'm trying to build an external shell device for Sludge and am uncertain how I can sculpt an object to precisely fit around his apatosaurus mode without printing it multiple times to check I got the size and post positions right.

I don't actually have a 3D printer at home, so I'll have to rely on the virtual model until I figure out how to print my test models conveniently.

You could try looking at Fusion 360, Sketchup and TinkerCAD. Those are the ones I see recommended for getting you feet wet if you're interested in creating 3D models for printing.

There is also Solidworks, which is a high end CAD software, but it had a free one year trial period a few months ago, not sure if it's still available.

[Tilarta]

I am curious, how does a Shapeways distribution/printing centre work?

Whenever I order from them, it always comes from somewhere in America.
Which got me wondering, for ease of distribution, could they build their printing facilities in every country to get their products to the customer faster with cheaper mailing options?

Since the objects are digital until printed, they could send the printing task to anywhere in the world.

[UltraMarginal]

There is also Solidworks, which is a high end CAD software, but it had a free one year trial period a few months ago, not sure if it's still available.

This is very interesting, and exciting, I really need to get my computer built so I can do some work using this.
it looks like it's online through a browser which is a bit of a pain but very well worth exploring.

[gamblor916]

I had a play with Solidworks a while back. It's pretty powerful with a learning curve to match. I believe it's the industry standard for product design and engineering.

[Soundwarp]

Just got a couple of prints from Shapeways and the results are pretty good. There's still a bit of cleanup to do but all the detail is there and nicely defined.
The blurry thing is a 10 cent coin for scale.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7911/32598524747_b736530073_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7887/46625613225_616af64e5f_o.jpg

OMG1
I’m breaking out my Warhammer guys and I’m gonna customise

[gamblor916]

Thanks to Tober for printing some things for me. Here's a direct comparison between Shapeways (left) and the Anycubic Photon resin printer (right).
In some areas notably the ribbing on the side and the logo area top of the boot the resin printer is much better. However fore and aft the shapeways print is superior. Also with the resin printer the object requires supporting frames so the nubs have to be placed carefully and afterwards cleaned off the print. You can see where they were placed on the back and sole of the boot. Both prints just have a coat of gray primer to highlight the surface impressions.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49077284458_13154ed2eb_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49077814896_eb6b2fae39_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49077815086_3cb1347814_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49077284388_430e8b70d3_o.jpg

[Tober]

Removing supports is just about always going to be tricky.

All in all, it's not terrible. :/

[gamblor916]

I can see where the resin printer would excel. Things like figures and organic shapes.
Front and back of the shapeways print plus the sides of your resin print would be the best result. The ribbing on the side I was really impressed with.

[Tilarta]

These are my first two successful models uploaded to Shapeways:
https://i.imgur.com/l2bcOuul.png


Removing supports is just about always going to be tricky.

All in all, it's not terrible. :/

This is what happened when I cut the supports off from my Shapeways dual rifle set:
https://i.imgur.com/l87hTmZl.jpg
And it's the not the first time it's happened with a Shapeways item.

I am curious why the inside is white and the outside is red.
Why isn't it red all the way through? :confused:

I'm using FreeCad to build my 3D objects.
It's a bit complicated at times, but I think I've gotten good enough at the program to design 3D printable objects.

[UltraMarginal]

Thanks to Tober for printing some things for me. Here's a direct comparison between Shapeways (left) and the Anycubic Photon resin printer (right).



Removing supports is just about always going to be tricky.

All in all, it's not terrible. :/

Very interesting comparison, I'm curious just how small that boot is?
I also wonder if they were printed in the same orientation, that would produce different results on different surfaces as well.


These are my first two successful models uploaded to Shapeways:
https://i.imgur.com/l2bcOuul.png



This is what happened when I cut the supports off from my Shapeways dual rifle set:
https://i.imgur.com/l87hTmZl.jpg
And it's the not the first time it's happened with a Shapeways item.

I am curious why the inside is white and the outside is red.
Why isn't it red all the way through? :confused:

I'm using FreeCad to build my 3D objects.
It's a bit complicated at times, but I think I've gotten good enough at the program to design 3D printable objects.

Thats most interesting, I'm guessing that the colour is a dye. what material are you printing in?


I can see where the resin printer would excel. Things like figures and organic shapes.
Front and back of the shapeways print plus the sides of your resin print would be the best result. The ribbing on the side I was really impressed with.

Theoretically any 3D printing/Additive manufacturing method is suited to organic shapes, it's the greatest strength of the technology

[gamblor916]

I am curious why the inside is white and the outside is red.
Why isn't it red all the way through? :confused:

From the Shapeways materials page it states that it's printed then dyed.


Very interesting comparison, I'm curious just how small that boot is?
I also wonder if they were printed in the same orientation, that would produce different results on different surfaces as well.

Not very big. The pics with the coin show somewhat an indication of size. I think it's a trade off as to what side is going to be more detailed plus the fact that supports are also necessary. I think that some clever tree design is required.



Theoretically any 3D printing/Additive manufacturing method is suited to organic shapes, it's the greatest strength of the technology

Also hard surfaces. 90 degrees means 90 degrees and flat is flat, print layers notwithstanding.

[UltraMarginal]

Not very big. The pics with the coin show somewhat an indication of size.


Oh, those pictures there, that I somehow didn't see. :rolleyes:

OK, either way that's an impressive print.

[Tilarta]

Thats most interesting, I'm guessing that the colour is a dye. what material are you printing in?

That one was printed in Red Processed Versatile Plastic.

[UltraMarginal]

I've just looked up their materials list, it's so much more complex than it used to be. Most impressive

[morg176]

Has anyone printed or designed any cool tf stuff lately?
I'm thinking of maybe designing a pretender shell template for small tf with an inert storage mode,
Cassettes and such

[Tilarta]

I design TF stuff all the time.
Some designs take longer then others to reach final print ready status, depending on the complexity of the design I am creating.

In the Pretender theme, this is one of my recent creations:
https://i.imgur.com/2ILZT27l.jpg
Bumblebee's Pretender Rifle reforged for his Earthrise toy.
Also considering making his Pretender Cannon at some point.
Unfortunately, because Hasbro did not include a vehicle mode socket, he can only use this weapon in mechanoid mode.
I could probably fix that by creating a socket adaptor.

Out of curiosity, I was thinking about designing a Pretender shell for Bumblebee, just to see if I could wrap one around his new toy.

[Dkaris]

I've had my Up Box for a number of years now.i mostly print props from movies, gifts for people and items for my brother's 40k army such as movement trays. My current project is the white whale from Mastodon's album Leviathan. I muck around with tinkercad and netfabb a bit, but don't have much experience with other software.

[gamblor916]

So here I go into the world of resin 3d printing. I've dialled in almost perfect settings and started some test prints. I'd say it was a success with 1 failure and 1 user error with inverted faces on a model. Those 4 little squares are the base of footpegs that broke off and the other half of chain disappeared completely.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51139688081_d837bfceb2_b.jpg

[Tober]

Looks good! Will you try printing the bike boots?

[gamblor916]

Yeah it would be a good comparison to earlier prints. One thing though it really is a messy business cleaning the stuff.

[Dkaris]

Here are some of my recentish prints.
Spinal cord tealight holder:
https://i.imgur.com/1I6XUxI.jpg

Baby Yoda
https://i.imgur.com/hTHCOqV.jpeg

Sakai Clan mask from Ghost of Tsushima
https://i.imgur.com/YaMD5cT.jpeg

Evangelion Unit 02 Progressive knife
https://i.imgur.com/z8dR6O8.jpg

I really enjoy priming and sanding down my prints before painting.

[1AZRAEL1]

All awesome. I really need to start using my printer.

@Dkaris are they designed by you or do you use people's print designs? I'm just wondering how hard it is to make my own stuff. My dad does alot of printing, and that spine looks damn awesome too

[Tilarta]

Well, in general, the quality of the print depends on two basic factors, your ability to create a model in 3D and the ability of your printer to print in fine detail.

I think there are limits though, like if the wall thickness isn't enough, then this happens:
https://i.imgur.com/jOQS2WHl.png
I bought a used Micromaster Tracer who didn't come with a rotor, so attempted to make one, only to discover the printer couldn't handle the miniature detail required for the part.

[Dkaris]

All awesome. I really need to start using my printer.

@Dkaris are they designed by you or do you use people's print designs? I'm just wondering how hard it is to make my own stuff. My dad does alot of printing, and that spine looks damn awesome too

These ones are other peoples. I can provide the links to the stl files if you like. I have very little CAD software, I use tinkercad a lot to modify existing designs to my own liking. For example I took the stl of a character from a game called warframe, deleted the body, scaled the head down and added a hole so that I could fit it on a lego minifigure. Just little stuff like that. I don't have the time or the knowledge for a lot of modelling. I have drawn some stuff, like patterns, converted them to svg then converted that to 3d files which is a bit of fun when it all comes together.

I'd suggest tinkercad for a few reasons, 1. its free. 2. its online so you can access your stuff from anywhere. 3. you can import existing models and muck around with them, or create your own stuff with basic geometric shapes etc.

[SMHFConvoy]

With parts that small I'd make the spacer and the centre of the rotor a solid piece and drill them out afterwards

[Tilarta]

I use FreeCad to do my modelling.

But you will need a second software, Ultmaker.
This translates the STL model into a file format your 3D printer will understand.

Both these softwares are free2download and use.

[1AZRAEL1]

Cheers for the advice. I don't have alot of time to mess around with designing too but I'll see what I can do.

[DELTAprime]

3D Printing chocolate will soon be a thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8S-usumuaWo

[1AZRAEL1]

Doing some printing. Just mucking around mostly. But I did a test of a weapon upgrade for WFC Ratbat, and cannons for Rotorstorm. So many things I've tagged as wanting to try out. Need some fine and small files to clean up the prints

[Dkaris]

Doing some printing. Just mucking around mostly. But I did a test of a weapon upgrade for WFC Ratbat, and cannons for Rotorstorm. So many things I've tagged as wanting to try out. Need some fine and small files to clean up the prints

What material did you print with?

[1AZRAEL1]

What material did you print with?

I had no idea until I looked at the boxes of filament my dad gave me hahah, but PLA. The guns so far came out well I reckon. Just needs some cleaning up and sanding and painting. Was only testing but might actually run with these as his weapons.

[Dkaris]

I had no idea until I looked at the boxes of filament my dad gave me hahah, but PLA. The guns so far came out well I reckon. Just needs some cleaning up and sanding and painting. Was only testing but might actually run with these as his weapons.

I print in ABS, I've found that the cans of auto primer you get from supercheap auto are really worth it. give the model a spray, it will fill in any lines between layers and make sanding easier. I normally prime with it, sand, prime sand etc until I'm happy with the outcome. wood putty is also worth trying, you can water it down a bit and paint it on then sand it back.

[SMHFConvoy]

I print in ABS, I've found that the cans of auto primer you get from supercheap auto are really worth it. give the model a spray, it will fill in any lines between layers and make sanding easier. I normally prime with it, sand, prime sand etc until I'm happy with the outcome. wood putty is also worth trying, you can water it down a bit and paint it on then sand it back.

Cabbot's Cabothane clear is also handy for filling in layer lines

[Dkaris]

Cabbot's Cabothane clear is also handy for filling in layer lines

I'll check it out. Can you sand and prime it?

[SMHFConvoy]

I'll check it out. Can you sand and prime it?

You're supposed to sand the surface first and then apply the polyurethane, let it dry, prime, sand where you need to.

This is the video I saw it on (https://youtu.be/uN4e-6hiA0U)

[Dkaris]

You're supposed to sand the surface first and then apply the polyurethane, let it dry, prime, sand where you need to.

This is the video I saw it on (https://youtu.be/uN4e-6hiA0U)

Thanks for the link. Just wondering if you use the oil based or water based version?

[SMHFConvoy]

Thanks for the link. Just wondering if you use the oil based or water based version?

Water based

[gamblor916]

Printed on my Elegoo Saturn. I'm never going back to Shapeways ever again. 10c coin for scale.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51167328479_668467af90_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51166776658_f5af5d02d1_b.jpg

[Tilarta]

Because Shapeways was incapable of producing a hollow enclosed object, I had to print them myself:
https://i.imgur.com/9rmjZZnl.png
It wasn't perfect, but this is the first time I actually got a useable object from my print.
Not bad for an entry level printer, normally it's just for size checking.

Also working on a hand mod for Apeface so he can hold 5mm post weapons in his ape mode:
https://i.imgur.com/2Rmhr6pl.png
This one's still not finished, there are some clearance issues with his ape mode forearms.
But his hands function as I intended.

I'm looking to upgrade to a better 3D printer now, does anyone have any recommendations?
Ideally I'd like a tricolor printer, but the last one I tried was defective (Geeetech A10T), so are there other quality tricolor printers?
And given my negative experience with the A10T, I'd prefer a factory assembled non-Chinese printer.
Australia preferably, but would take American or Japan, as long as it's guaranteed to be reliable.

But I don't think we have Australian made 3D printers yet, so that might be an unrealistic expectation.

[gamblor916]

Halfway through a 13 hour print I knock the power brick loose. There goes a full bed of prints.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51541517411_dd12c4424e_o.jpg

[1AZRAEL1]

Oh ouch. That is painful. What are you making though?

[gamblor916]

Various parts, model parts, mech parts. Even though I hate the clean up, having a flex plate makes things a lot easier.

[gamblor916]

Printed some parts to turn a Bandai clone into animated Captain Rex.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51576526964_9f2db35b5c_o.jpg

[Tober]

Cool! How have you found your printer?

[gamblor916]

It's been pretty good. Detail is crazy insane. I've bought a heater and thermostat to keep temperatures constant.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51580815899_0b0577fb45_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51581052085_333939414a_o.jpg

[Tober]

Nice! Those are some amazing results you're getting.

[Lint]

So this year work got a 3d printer. Have to say, it's one of the best things we've ever bought!

One of my first order's of business was to give poor Battleslash and Roadtrap some accessories! Credit to CrazyNerd (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4585942) on Thingiverse for the model.

https://i.imgur.com/vAPAm4Nh.jpg

Continuing to trawl Thingiverse I printed a sniper rifle by firetox (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4615203) for Netflix Elita-1.

https://i.imgur.com/cE4Uep6h.jpg

My next mission was to give some better armaments to Titans Return Sixshot. Credit to lechuckgl for the model (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2944917). This project also represents my first foray into creating my own models as the rifle 'infill' pieces I found on Thingiverse didn't work at all. So the rifle infills pictured are 100% my own design baby! Sixshot now has some real cannons.

https://i.imgur.com/Q8MXCXSh.jpg

Ok so I lied, my first foray into original models was actually developing a weapons system for the Core Class figures who have 3mm ports. The idea was the handle would be a universal 5mm and 3mm compatible peg which would then modularly plug into a variety of weapon pieces like a sword, axe or pistol. The models are embarassingly bad as seen below.

https://i.imgur.com/mcZ2oTxh.jpg


After that disaster it took me a while to dare to model again. I recently picked up Pounce and Wingspan off Amazon was and was quite offended by their lack of accoutrements. Quite inspired by what I saw on Shapeways (https://www.shapeways.com/product/RQTWH5AQD/electro-burst-rifles-for-tr-wingspan), these are not G1 replicas but I'm quite proud of them anyway. Less proud of the quality of my photography. There is quite a bit of sculpted detail that is washed out by the white.

https://i.imgur.com/m5dEPGRh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/o6amFyCh.jpg

I hope to throw up my half decent models onto Thingiverse one day. But if anyone wants the Sixshot infills or Pounce&Wingspan accessories I am happy to send stl's over.

[Tober]

Those are some nice prints, Lint! What machine are you using?

[Lint]

^Thanks! It's a Raise3D E2

[gamblor916]

I made a calibration file to help with setting up resin printers. You need calipers to use it. Download it at Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5254359).

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51892782555_0802b8973e_o.jpg

[Tober]

Nice! But getting 404 error fron Thingiverse.

[gamblor916]

It should work now. I just joined so I had to wait for verification.

[gamblor916]

Printed 1/7 scale Psylocke to use up some expired resin. I found the file at CGTrader.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52109544531_31ed2d713f_o.jpg

[Tober]

That looks great!

Did you order a Sonic Mini printer?

[gamblor916]

No but the Saturn 2 looks great. Probably can't justify the purchase unless I sell the current one though.

[Dkaris]

Anyone here have a resin printer that will print some stl's for me and ship for payment? If so, pm me =]

[gamblor916]

I can do it if the objects are not too big. I haven't got a lot of resin at the moment.

[Tober]

I (FINALLY!) received a new 3D printer to play with, so I pulled this Ravage project out of digital mothballs. You may recognise it.

I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out, even though there is some resin whitening. The main body is aprox 10cm long. There are no joints for it tho.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52342412879_6604952f92_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nKjxLt)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52342413614_ac15b85cbd_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nKjxZ9)

[gamblor916]

Very nice. What printer did you get? And care to share the file?

[Tober]

Very nice. What printer did you get? And care to share the file?

I took your advice at pre-ordered the Phrozen Mini 8K last year. It was scheduled to ship in April... And just as it was being dispatched Pelosi visited Taiwan...

The file started as a Maya animation file and wasn't originally intended for 3D printing, so currently it has a bunch of support cylinders running through the middle of an otherwise hollow jaguar. There are still objects such as the missiles and side piping that are single sided, so it was almost suprising Chitubox was able to slice it correctly.

If you want to deal with a half-assed 3D file, PM me your email or something like Dropbpx details.

I know I'm going to be needing to pick your brains to get better results... ;)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52344226784_e4a71f853f_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nKtQYG)

[gamblor916]

Nice choice! The detail should be phenomenal. I can't help you with settings for that machine but I can give pointers on supports and design for print. PM sent.

[Paulbot]

That's so cool seeing your signature pic come to life! It's a good looking Ravage figure.

[Dkaris]

Thinking of picking up a photon mono 4k. Anyone have any experience or opinion on it?

[Tober]

That's so cool seeing your signature pic come to life! It's a good looking Ravage figure.

Thanks a lot, Paul. Yeah, so now Ravage is here watching me constantly. :/


Thinking of picking up a photon mono 4k. Anyone have any experience or opinion on it?

I've owned six Anycubic printers. The last one (Kobra Max) is the only one that didn't have any problems straight out of the box. It's kinda like playing Russian roulette, except five of the chambers are loaded.

Try asking on the Anycubic Facebook group about it. My Anycubic Photon S is still fine after about three years.

The bad thing about resin printers is that the screens don't last that long and will eventually need replacing. This was rather difficult with the Photon S.

Try watching a few YouTube reviews, and realise that using resin printers means dealing with a lot a nasty chemicals. And resin isn't cheap.

[Dkaris]

Thanks a lot, Paul. Yeah, so now Ravage is here watching me constantly. :/



I've owned six Anycubic printers. The last one (Kobra Max) is the only one that didn't have any problems straight out of the box. It's kinda like playing Russian roulette, except five of the chambers are loaded.

Try asking on the Anycubic Facebook group about it. My Anycubic Photon S is still fine after about three years.

The bad thing about resin printers is that the screens don't last that long and will eventually need replacing. This was rather difficult with the Photon S.

Try watching a few YouTube reviews, and realise that using resin printers means dealing with a lot a nasty chemicals. And resin isn't cheap.

What kind of problems did you encounter with yours? I have a plan to use a hydro tent and an inline fan to deal with the fumes. I've worked with fdm for about 6 years but know resin is a bit different. Id love for someone to create a model of replacement shoulder parts for the 1/60 valks.

[Tober]

What kind of problems did you encounter with yours? I have a plan to use a hydro tent and an inline fan to deal with the fumes. I've worked with fdm for about 6 years but know resin is a bit different. Id love for someone to create a model of replacement shoulder parts for the 1/60 valks.

Out of the two Photon S printers, the first had the LCD screen die after about 80 hours of printing - replacement screen was sent. The second had a problem with the FEP sheet on the basin being loose, which caused prints to fail until the fault was resolved by a helpful facebook group.

Are you referring to the Yamato Valks? I would have thought that Shapeways would have been used by now to upload parts..?

[Dkaris]

Out of the two Photon S printers, the first had the LCD screen die after about 80 hours of printing - replacement screen was sent. The second had a problem with the FEP sheet on the basin being loose, which caused prints to fail until the fault was resolved by a helpful facebook group.

Are you referring to the Yamato Valks? I would have thought that Shapeways would have been used by now to upload parts..?

Thanks. I might look at the elegoo mars 3 instead.

[gamblor916]

Thanks. I might look at the elegoo mars 3 instead.

If anything Elegoo has really good customer service.

I love 3d printing so much. Here's my Mechwarrior Cauldron Born and classic Timberwolf.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622243099_a4789a562b_o.jpg

[Trent]

So this is the year I finally buy myself a 3D printer and start playing around with it. What type would you guys recommend? FDM or resin? Total n00b, minimal knowledge.

[gamblor916]

Speaking generally if you're printing functional objects, stuff that is handled regularly and needs a bit of strength then FDM is what you're after. If you want to print miniatures, statues or highly detailed objects then resin is the better solution. FDM is also generally safer. With resin you have to deal with some seriously nasty stuff and have to use the required PPE.

[Trent]

Cheers. If one of the things I was looking at was replacement parts for TFs, or something like the Lugnut from Sam’s Forge, would they work with Resin or is FDM pretty much the go-to option for that sort of thing?

Those mechs you printed look fantastic. I’m going to guess they were done on a resin printer?

[gamblor916]

Yes I used a resin printer. I only have 3 points of articulation.

For TF parts its a bit tricky. A lot of resins are pretty brittle though there are engineering resins available. Some people mix a flexible resin with an abs type to make parts more durable. Or use a strong resin for joints and regular abs-like for the rest of the model.

Judging by the chunky size and layer lines I'm guessing the Lugnut is FDM printed.

[Trent]

After doing a bit of looking I think I’ll start with a FDM. Resin seems a more hassle than I’d like to put in at the start at least.

I remember looking at an Ender 3 as a bit of a standard a few years ago but there are probably better options now? Just looking for some places to start.

[Tober]

.

I love 3d printing so much. Here's my Mechwarrior Cauldron Born and classic Timberwolf.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52622243099_a4789a562b_o.jpg

Awesome results! How did you end up approaching the transparent windows? I'm still struggling a lot with printing clear parts, but have had some success.

[Thurmus]

They look awesome.

[gamblor916]

Cheers guys. There was a learning curve there for sure.


After doing a bit of looking I think I'll start with a FDM. Resin seems a more hassle than I'd like to put in at the start at least.

I remember looking at an Ender 3 as a bit of a standard a few years ago but there are probably better options now? Just looking for some places to start.

I've read that the Elegoo Neptune series is decent straight out of the box.


Awesome results! How did you end up approaching the transparent windows? I'm still struggling a lot with printing clear parts, but have had some success.

I've got parts made up for a vac forming box, have yet to ty it out. I'll test it out this weekend.

[gamblor916]

As a concept it works. I made up a laser cut box and used PETG sheets for forming. The black bits are from candle smoke, easily polished out. I still need to adjust the shape of the buck and practice a bit.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625198822_4843a293f4_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626151175_51a8ea7b9d_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625198907_98dd45c00f_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52625965084_dce6cb8d5e_o.jpg

[Trent]

Cheers guys. There was a learning curve there for sure.



I've read that the Elegoo Neptune series is decent straight out of the box.



I've got parts made up for a vac forming box, have yet to ty it out. I'll test it out this weekend.

Yeah they seem to have some good reports. Thanks for the advice.

[Tober]

Looks promising.

Are you able to laser cut clear surfaces like PVC or plexigless forflat sheets?

[gamblor916]

I had it cut at onlinelasercutting. I just picked from their material list. Their prices have spiked since the last time I used them though.

[Tober]

Nice, thanks!

Looks like their minimum thickness for clear acrylic of 1.5mm is too wide for me tho. Looks like I will try slicing up a take-away box lid afterall.

[gamblor916]

I've redesigned the buck and a bit of practice later I'm getting pretty clean results. Not bad for a candle and a vacuum cleaner.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52727448383_90143cc6a8_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52727383310_5758f498cf_o.jpg

[Tober]

That's looking good.
How large can the volume be?

[gamblor916]

I made mine 70x70mm for the inner size and 120x120mm for the full size. I only need small parts so it made sense to keep it small.

[DELTAprime]

I got my first 3D printer. An Ender 3 V3 SE. I got it because some fellow sim racers use it.

Can someone please recommend some good test print files so I can make sure it prints well before I start using it for real?

[gamblor916]

I got my first 3D printer. An Ender 3 V3 SE. I got it because some fellow sim racers use it.

Can someone please recommend some good test print files so I can make sure it prints well before I start using it for real?

Printing Benchy is a good place to start.

[gamblor916]

Here's my 20 years of progress. From scratch built mechs from bits of styrene to fully digital and detailed 3D printed models. What a time to be alive.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53516373266_279b08f938_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53514414516_54f6c1fc28_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53514853515_f43c54849d_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53514414526_0e0a3f1c60_o.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53514853550_6bf5287d0f_o.jpg

[DELTAprime]

Here's my 20 years of progress. From scratch built mechs from bits of styrene to fully digital and detailed 3D printed models. What a time to be alive.


I'm just waiting for the day 3D printers get so advanced we go to the store. Buy Hasbro brand filament. Buy an STL file from Hasbro. And then print our official Transformers, in the quality that comes out of the factories in Vietnam, but in our own home.