3d Printing restoration.

[MV75]

Haven't noticed this mentioned yet and with yellowing, replacing broken / missing parts etc, anyone put thoughts to just printing new ones?

[Chevron Action Flash]

Re:yellowing, try the hydogen peroxide method. Works a treat.
Here's an article I wrote on it:

https://tonkstoysblog.wordpress.com/2016/09/18/restoring-yellowed-action-figures/

Re: printed parts, I'm not convinced consumer level 3D printing is a viable alternative yet. The finish is very grainy and I'm not sure it will hold up over time. Happy to be proven wrong.

[MV75]

I'm thinking of parts like the gears from g1 omega supreme in the tank for its motor actions.

As for yellowing, try nappisan instead. It releases hydrogen peroxide and is easier to work with.

[Chevron Action Flash]

I'm thinking of parts like the gears from g1 omega supreme in the tank for its motor actions.

As for yellowing, try nappisan instead. It releases hydrogen peroxide and is easier to work with.

For a figure like Omega Supreme I think you'd be better off buying a donor figure and cannibalising it for the moving parts you need. Again, I don't think printed parts would withstand the pressures applied in a moving gear system.

The 3% HP I use to de-yellow is quite harmless and easy to get. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't suggest drinking it. Napisan sounds like an interesting alternative but the viscosity would annoy me...

[MV75]

For a figure like Omega Supreme I think you'd be better off buying a donor figure and cannibalising it for the moving parts you need. Again, I don't think printed parts would withstand the pressures applied in a moving gear system.

The 3% HP I use to de-yellow is quite harmless and easy to get. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't suggest drinking it. Napisan sounds like an interesting alternative but the viscosity would annoy me...

You dissolve it in warm water, there is no viscosity. :)

I had some luck with some old computer parts, dissolve a bunch of the product in warm/hot but not boiling water in a clear container, put the item in the water, stick a clear lid on and put it in the sun.

[UltraMarginal]

I think 3D printed parts using 'white strong flexible' from Shapeways or a material of similar properties would be OK, certainly once you had the CAD model, you could print a couple and if in a few years the part failed you could replace it.

The trick with replicating any part is getting sizes and tolerances accurate enough to work with the existing design. material shrinkage (while cooling/setting), interference fit (for pins), gear ratio, tooth angle, screw thread etc etc would all need to be accurately replicated.

I've thought about doing something similar with classic parts made from gold plastic, if the part is simple enough and doesn't have any deep crevices shapeways have a treatment that smooths the surface so it appears less grainy.

I don't think home 3D printers would produce a material quality that would be very reliable in smaller parts and it looks awful if being considered for parts that are visible.