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jaydisc
11th February 2008, 04:37 PM
Hey Guys,

I posted a while back about the best way to remove stickers and was suggested zippo/lighter fluid which worked a treat. I had asked if methylated spirits was too strong and a few said yes.

So, I've recently acquired some pretty dirty TFs and would like to clean them up.

* What kind of solvent if any can I use to remove dirt and grime?
* Can I remove rust from screws and rivets?

TIA

kup
11th February 2008, 08:01 PM
I just use Isocol. Its soft on the plastic but dissolves the grime residue. Its also soft enough to be forgiving if you accidentally do a rub on a paintes surface (but dont do it often!)
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MV75
11th February 2008, 08:20 PM
If it's just dust/dirt, water will do fine.

As for rust, remove the screws and use some sort of rust removing chemical.

If it's rivits, I dunno, try and get some fine sand paper in there and sand the rust off.
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Soundwarp
12th February 2008, 07:30 AM
You can pick up new screws or clean them with a solvent then at worst give them a silver paint.

i_amtrunks
12th February 2008, 10:45 AM
Fresh Blutak is good for getting rid of dust, grime and even taking the top layer of rust off (when its really orange and flaky).

Also doesn't leave any residue, and does not require drying either.

kup
12th February 2008, 12:19 PM
My way of dealing with Rusty screws:

Remove the screw and use sand paper remove the rust from the screw heads and then I just try to clean the 'screw driver' hole as best as I can witha metal pin or knife. If it still has an 'old' look after clean up I paint the head with metallic silver paint.

However if the screw is not just rusted in the surface but inside too (rare) then just replace it as it will likely break and cause trouble later on.
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jaydisc
12th February 2008, 04:22 PM
Thanks for the tips everyone.


I just use Isocol. Its soft on the plastic but dissolves the grime residue. Its also soft enough to be forgiving if you accidentally do a rub on a paintes surface (but dont do it often!)

Any idea what's in Isocol? Or is it a protected secret? Do you know if there's any benefit of it over Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol?

gamblor916
12th February 2008, 08:37 PM
I think isocol is isopropyl alcohol with other stuff in it like fragrance and whatnot. Don't use it, it'll leave residue on whatever you're cleaning. Use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I found some in a hardware store ages ago for maybe $10 for a small bottle. Use a cotton swab dipped in the stuff to clean. If you have enough you can submerse bits in overnight to thoroughly clean something.
Warning! It will strip paint if you leave it long enough.

dirge
12th February 2008, 08:43 PM
Isocol is just a branded Isopropanol. So yeah, it's fancy rubbing alcohol trying to convince you that it's better than the same stuff in other bottles (:

TheDirtyDigger
12th February 2008, 09:50 PM
I use it at work and it's sold under the trade name 'Iso' here.
Any hardware store will have it.

Soundwarp
13th February 2008, 07:23 AM
Oh and "Cleaning" is what we call it, not playing :p

kup
13th February 2008, 09:54 AM
http://img.myshopping.com.au/product/173119/Isocol_Antiseptic_Rubbing_Alcohol_345ml.jpg

I like Isocol because it is very deluded. Its not strong at all and have used it on at least 4 dozens of my toys to remove old stickers before applying reprolabels. However do try to avoid painted surfaces as rubbing on paint will wipe it off.

When it comes to general dust cleaning I just use Babywipes.
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liegeprime
14th February 2008, 08:23 PM
oh I use the same alcohol brand Kup... but in removing paint. That's what I used when I stripped a Classic Starscream of paint before handing over to Stencilator. Just soak it in there and the paint easily scrapes off. I use cotton buds ( wet) for little hard to reach areas in th emold, occasionally babywipes, just a plain dusted or just play with them every now and then to dust off the dust hehehehe. Most of the time I let them be, its just to freakin timeconsuming :D

kup
14th February 2008, 09:22 PM
oh I use the same alcohol brand Kup... but in removing paint. That's what I used when I stripped a Classic Starscream of paint before handing over to Stencilator. Just soak it in there and the paint easily scrapes off. I use cotton buds ( wet) for little hard to reach areas in th emold, occasionally babywipes, just a plain dusted or just play with them every now and then to dust off the dust hehehehe. Most of the time I let them be, its just to freakin timeconsuming :D

Yeah, that is why I keep saying to keep it away from paint. Its easy on plastic but not on paint. For people who dont know, if the base color of the plastic is blue for example, it will not discolor it or anything. Its only bad on painted surfaces.
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dirge
16th February 2008, 06:50 PM
Isocol does it again (http://www.otca.com.au/boards/showthread.php?p=8623)!

There's no damage to the plastic nor is there a residue.

I can confirm that Isocol will take the paint off, but a single wipe isn't enough to do it. Still, try to avoid using in on painted areas.

Hereticpoo
6th April 2008, 11:56 PM
Hi guys, does anyone have any tips on removing rust from chrome? My Masterpiece Megs (or Mastercrap poorly made Megs) has some surprisingly severe rust on ALL of the chrome surfaces. Will the alcohol be enough to remove and prevent further rust? Has anyone else had to repair their Megs? (Other than perceptor!) Thanks :)

kup
7th April 2008, 01:40 AM
I am happy to say that my Megatron is yet to develop rusty feet but I have taken care of rust on other figures like my G1 vintage Soundwave who also had rusty feet which I restored a couple of months ago.

First of all, if the rust is extensive, there is no way that you can restore it to the original condition, you can only improve the look. Second of all, there is a small element of risk depending on your own judgment while removing the rust (you need to know when to stop scraping off the rust).

Warning: The following is not easy and requires concentration and basic common sense on your part.

Remove the feet from the figure if possible for easy access and to minimize accidental damage on the rest of the figure.

Assuming the rust is superficial (most likely it is), you need a wet 'smooth' piece sand paper. Start sanding the rusted surface very, very gently in straight lines (don't do round motions or uneven patterns or you will damage the look of the figure) also try not to push hard on the surface, just enough to make contact with the rust and scratch it off. Eventually you will get a shiny metallic surface in the area you are sanding, once you see that or if its going too deep, stop and move to the next area. Keep doing this until most of the rust is removed. However if done correctly with smooth and wet sandpaper and the rust is superficial, the marks left could be near invisible.

If the rust is heavy on the surface, you will likely never be able to remove all the rust from the surface, there will be small spots here and there that refuse to come off. In that event, simiply do your best to remove them and then paint over the spots with a silver paiint pen marker. If its just small spots, it will not be inmediately noticeable while the figure is displayed.

Important Note:

Please keep in mind that once you start sanding, you will definitly leave marks on the surface of the metal, this is why I stress that you keep a constant pattern while sanding it so that you can keep these marks subtle. However depending on how bad the rust is, a subtly 'marked' metalic surface is much better than a rusty one.

Also keep in mind that once metal has begun to rust, it is very easy for the rust to come back even if fully removed. It is a bit like a decease or parasite on the metal, if it was once contaminated then its more probable that it will happen again. To minimize this you need to change the location of the figure somewhere less humid or with less exposure to outside air.

Hereticpoo
7th April 2008, 09:37 PM
Thank you very much for your advise Kup. I'll get started on it this weekend. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks again :)

Soundwarp
10th April 2008, 06:12 AM
Pics?

benben2142
10th April 2008, 01:11 PM
Hey Guys,

I posted a while back about the best way to remove stickers and was suggested zippo/lighter fluid which worked a treat. I had asked if methylated spirits was too strong and a few said yes.

So, I've recently acquired some pretty dirty TFs and would like to clean them up.

* What kind of solvent if any can I use to remove dirt and grime?
* Can I remove rust from screws and rivets?

TIA

Or throw the toy out and get another, is my opinion.

Bartrim
10th April 2008, 02:05 PM
Or throw the toy out and get another, is my opinion.

Not everyone can afford that benben. Sometimes restoring a junker is the only way for som people to have a toy they once cherished as a child. Like my targetmaster Crosshairs (well I didn't cherish him as a child because I never had him but I always wanted him:D)

kup
10th April 2008, 02:06 PM
Or throw the toy out and get another, is my opinion.

Benben, please THINK before you post :rolleyes:

Jay,

I use Babywipes to get rid of sticker residue. The liquid in them dissolves the residue and leaves the surface intact.

Pulse
10th April 2008, 03:15 PM
Or throw the toy out and get another, is my opinion.

Spoken like a true 13 year old. :rolleyes:

kup
10th April 2008, 03:20 PM
Spoken like a true 13 year old. :rolleyes:

When I was 13 I would have NEVER suggested to anyone to throw away a vintage toy, not even a junker.

Pulse
10th April 2008, 03:33 PM
When I was 13 I would have NEVER suggested to anyone to throw away a vintage toy, not even a junker.

But Mate, 13 year olds of our generation & benben's generation think totally unlike one another. Even though were all mainly "Generation X" (as they like to classify us), "Generation Y" folk like benben think completely differently to us over the exact same subject.

It's a lost cause - cos in their eyes we know squat & they know everything. :rolleyes:

jaydisc
10th April 2008, 03:54 PM
Pics?

Are you asking for pics of my successful cleaning job? Alas, my lazy ass hasn't done it yet.

kup
10th April 2008, 04:09 PM
It's a lost cause - cos in their eyes we know squat & they know everything. :rolleyes:

So did Louis XVI and Tsar Nicholas II :rolleyes:

gamblor916
10th April 2008, 04:59 PM
I just cleaned up a G1 Dirge using this stuff I got from the hardware store, basically a very concentrated detergent. Throw a few capfuls into a container of water and submerge your parts. Don't of course leave any metal bits in there and separate the parts as best you can. Leave 24-48 hrs and your parts will come out completely bare and smelling like a pine forest. Give it a wash and you'll be amazed at how clean your parts are.
This method will take off old stickers, general grime and maybe paint (haven't tested). I have used it undiluted to remove Tamiya enamels off model kits and it works great. Won't shift lacquers however.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/1800/1010040285wl2.jpg

roller
10th April 2008, 05:09 PM
But Mate, 13 year olds of our generation & benben's generation think totally unlike one another. Even though were all mainly "Generation X" (as they like to classify us), "Generation Y" folk like benben think completely differently to us over the exact same subject.

It's a lost cause - cos in their eyes we know squat & they know everything. :rolleyes:

hey hey hey its common fact that everyone born after 1989 is infected with the bad water.:) No all us Gen Y's are toy discarders

My G1 optimus prime has all the chrome faded on legs and chest, any suggestion s on how to restore it? Has anyone ever had experience removing g1 primes arms before?

Pulse
10th April 2008, 06:33 PM
My G1 optimus prime has all the chrome faded on legs and chest, any suggestion s on how to restore it?

Knock off a real car with chrome bumpers. Take what you need & discard the rest of it. ;)

iceburn
10th April 2008, 07:55 PM
Are you asking for pics of my successful cleaning job? Alas, my lazy ass hasn't done it yet.

lazy lazy...*keke*

Vector Sigma 13
12th April 2008, 05:21 PM
This could be a long shot and i dont know if i would try this on anything important but eucalyptus oil used to take the sticky stuff off. Anyone tried this?.

Someone else mentioned baby wipes- they are the most useful gadget under the sun. I reccon theyve got a small amount of alcohol in them. Not Rum...

Might be worth further research?

Oh and by the way Generation X sounds way cooler than Generation Y. lol.

gamblor916
13th April 2008, 06:40 PM
I've just had a close look at my MP Megs feet. There's some discolouration happening on both feet and the chrome spine. It has been sitting in a display cabinet all this time with very little handling. My chrome on MP Prime is still perfect however.
I suggest those with one to inspect theirs for rust.

Borgeman
13th April 2008, 11:05 PM
This could be a long shot and i dont know if i would try this on anything important but eucalyptus oil used to take the sticky stuff off. Anyone tried this?.



it works, though its effectiveness depends on how old/thick the sticky is, and its composition...

George

1orion2many
13th April 2008, 11:28 PM
hey hey hey its common fact that everyone born after 1989 is infected with the bad water.:) No all us Gen Y's are toy discarders

My G1 optimus prime has all the chrome faded on legs and chest, any suggestion s on how to restore it? Has anyone ever had experience removing g1 primes arms before?

I'm still waiting on some chrome paint to come in, I'll take pics of before and after and post them here if i think it works well. Has anyone tried a thin layer of oil over Megs parts to stop it from rusting, this of course means you will have to stand him up on something that is non pourus like a small amount of plastic so he doesnt damage the surface he is on.

liegeprime
14th April 2008, 09:33 AM
I'm still waiting on some chrome paint to come in, I'll take pics of before and after and post them here if i think it works well. Has anyone tried a thin layer of oil over Megs parts to stop it from rusting, this of course means you will have to stand him up on something that is non pourus like a small amount of plastic so he doesnt damage the surface he is on.

Well you can always use the platform for used for Titanium Megs, That'll make a good stand, complete with a nameplate and symbol even./ I use the Optimus one for my MP -01.


Any ideas on whitening a sundamaged, used to be white TF? I know there was some suggestion before but am too lazy to scour the threads. My used to be pristine bone white AM megs got a tan of sorts when I went back to migrate him here, just wanted to make him neat looking again.
Tried alcohol, allpurpose spray cleaner and toothpaste, well they didnt help....

MV75
14th April 2008, 12:37 PM
I'm still waiting on some chrome paint to come in, I'll take pics of before and after and post them here if i think it works well. Has anyone tried a thin layer of oil over Megs parts to stop it from rusting, this of course means you will have to stand him up on something that is non pourus like a small amount of plastic so he doesnt damage the surface he is on.

I was going to suggest that. Clean and treat it like a real gun, wipe down the metal parts with oil, especially if you've touched it. :)

Shouldn't harm the plastic, just use proper oil, not wd-40.



Any ideas on whitening a sundamaged, used to be white TF? I know there was some suggestion before but am too lazy to scour the threads. My used to be pristine bone white AM megs got a tan of sorts when I went back to migrate him here, just wanted to make him neat looking again.
Tried alcohol, allpurpose spray cleaner and toothpaste, well they didnt help....

Sanding and/or painting is your only option. The yellow is permanent plastic damage. The uv inhibiters have all been "used up".
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Hereticpoo
9th September 2008, 03:00 PM
Hi guys,

Was wondering if the second batch of MP Megatrons had any fixes for the chrome? Are the most recently manufactured one's still sporting hairy feet and armpits? :D (I thought that one was a cracker!)

Pulse
9th September 2008, 03:19 PM
I haven't heard any stories of cosmic rust in the 2nd batch of MP Megs... :confused: (Mine is fine)

Word is WD40 & Vinegar work wonders... :)

TF76
14th September 2008, 04:48 PM
Ive been cleaning stuff lots latley.

I always use lighter fluid first is doesn’t seem to mess with chrome or painted surfaces like alcohol. It also can get some stuff off alcohol wont at times.

Sometimes I use do alcohol when the lighter fluid wont work, I think just depends on the type of stickers and how dry they are. :confused:

Sometimes I even wash/scrub parts with detergent and hot water (Which acording to some people is bad but so is dirt, oil, sticker gunk and light and just about everything.) :rolleyes:

Personally I don’t think anything is worse than dirt.

None of this works if the loser you buy your toy off decided to super glue the stickers back on. :rolleyes:

Soundwarp
14th September 2008, 07:55 PM
Lighter fluid eh........