Paint and airbrushing tips and advice

[llamatron]

Hi guys,

Just wondering where you guys get your paints from for customizing figures. Seems as though we have bugger all available at shops here (can't just pop down to Wal-Mart/Home Depot and pick up some Krylon Fusion like all the yanks suggest!). Do you order online? If so, where from?

I'm mainly looking for high quality enamel paints etc

[gamblor916]

I get most of my paint from Rainbow 10 (http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/)

Rainbow 10 no longer ship aerosols overseas but HLJ (http://hlj.com/index.html) is still able to, which is strange as R10 cite Japanese post as the reason.

Auto colours from Hiroboy.com (http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/). Airbrush only.

Local hobby stores around here have bottles of Tamiya enamel and spray cans.
Also I've found the hobby store next to Flinders Station is about the only stockist of Testors Model Master Chrome Silver which is a decent brushable chrome.

[Lordy]

It's illegal to send pressure pack paint cans via mail, both locally and internationally.

Hobby and RC shops should be able to help you. I've used Tamiya spray paint for plastics on metal, seems to work well.

For detail paints, maybe something like Citadel paints from Games Workshop or maybe something from arts supply stores.

[bruticus]

I'm just curious, but is there any particular reason why you want to start with enamel paints? or specifically krylon enamels??

ring up these hobby shops (http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/shopswa.htm) and try your luck there first.

Also, correct me if im wrong but games workshop only sell acrylic paints which can not be painted over enamels unless you apply a sealer afterwards to stop the paint from rubbing off...
its something to do with how oil (enamel) floats on water (acrylic) etc...

[rampagesss]

I use all Tamiya paint, both spray paint and bottles of enamels. They work great and come in great colors nevr had any problems with them :D

[sideswipes brother]

Hey team, im currently stripping down a junker Jazz to the bare bones with the hopes of making him look beautiful again. So far i have disassembled him and have removed all of this paint on his diecast parts. Now, what paint do i use to get it back to the way it was? What i mean by that is, what paint is used by Hasbro/Takara which for the most part is resistant to chipping? Ive done this thing before but the paint i used chipped off really easily. Ive been told car touch up paint is excellent. I think that there is a gloss overcoat to be done also?
Any help is much appreciated.
SB

[loophole]

i think they origanally used an Enamal spray paint that might be the same sort of stuff thats used in the car industry

[Ultra Streak]

I use a combination of Testors gloss and flat enamal on most parts im painting. I have a set of Testors acrylics too but i only use them on parts that are in areas that dont get handled or areas that run the risk of chipping, rubbing or scratching as its quite easy to come off.

[Doubledealer]

The purpose of this thread is to detail any tips, tricks or techniques for all things airbrush. This is also the place to ask any questions you may have about airbrushing which should hopefully come in handy for people just getting started/wanting to find out more.

When it comes to airbrushing Transformers, I recommend a dual-action gravity fed airbrush. With this type of 'brush you get better control with the dual-action (allowing real-time adjusting of paint volume) and easier cleaning & the ability to spray at lower air pressures with the gravity fed paint cup (at the sacrifice of holding less paint than a siphon fed airbrush).

For those who already airbrush, I'd be interested to know which brush/compressor combo you use, what psi air pressure you set the compressor to (do you ever change the psi?) and any discoveries you've made since practicing this method of painting.

Local prices for quality brands (Iwata, Badger, Paasche for example) are a bit ridiculous so I looked online and ended up buying an airbrush & compressor combo from http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/.

I went for this particular combo which is great as it allows you to pick exactly which brush you want (I went for the CR after all the great things I'd read about it in forums). The total cost for this set was US$331 including shipping to Australia. The CR itself is a brilliant piece of kit, I especially love how you can remove the end nozzle to spray super fine lines of paint. :)
http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/iwre.html

One thing I will say about this particular compressor (Iwata Sprint Jet) is that despite it saying in the write up: "Working pressure from 1psi to 35psi", I've never been able to get it higher than 23psi despite everything being correctly/firmly connected (for the uninitiated, the working pressure is the psi once the airbrush is releasing air). Strangely, if I set the psi anywhere between 55-80 (idle, not working pressure) it still always maxes out at 23psi. Not really sure what's going on there but ah well.

While we're on the topic of the compressor, and being that we live in Australia, I strongly urge that you buy an 'in-line moisture trap' if you're using a small compressor such as my one (yes, even if it has it's own built in moisture trap). Trust me, when it's a hot/humid day those little moisture traps just can't cope and you will most likely end up with an airbrush that spits out water every now and then effectively ruining an otherwise perfect paint job. Putting the compressor on the ground can help with this but I still recommend the second inline moisture trap - all you need is one of these for $10 shipped http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AIRBRUSH-MINI-AIR-FILTER-Moisture-Water-Trap-Hose-Hobby-/140282962529?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item20a9842261#ht_1835wt_905. (don't pay 5X for a brand model that's exactly the same thing). You can thank me later. :)

Other than that, another essential purchase (which I still haven't bought, lol, good one DD) is an airbrush holder. I can't tell you how many times I've knocked my CR over and spilled paint everywhere! Last night I tried to balance it on the compressor, I of course then bumped it which ended up with yellow paint on the compressor, its cables and my workstation. Oh joy. :p

Here are some other bits and pieces I've bought along the way, all of which I'd consider must have airbrushing equipment:

-3M 6200 Respirator with 3M 60921 P100 cartridges (when spraying Enamels)
-Dust Mask (when spraying Acrylics)
-Windex (to clean airbrush)
-Thinner (Acrylic or Enamel)
-Spray booth (I made one out of an old box & sheets of plain white A4 paper)
-Paints (duh!) - I've used Mr Hobby & Tamiya only, don't have a bad thing to say about either of them although my preference goes to Mr Hobby (you can pretty much spray it straight out of the bottle it's so thin)

I could go on but that's a good enough start. I don't even know if anyone will use this thread (!) but hopefully someone finds it useful. :)

[bruticus]

thanks for the tips mate.
i cant believe that you ghetto'd a spray booth out of paper... nice...
what did you end up using for an exhaust fan?
post a pick of it when you are free.

im not as crafty as you and ended up buying a sparmax spray booth instead... however, it doubles nicely as a photobooth. lol.
havent had issues with the moisture trap on mine yet so never thought about using a second inline moisture trap as well.
talk about "double bagging" dude. lol.

yep... you're right about the airbrush holder... need to get me one as well.
actually i might duck into stanbridges now to see if they have any.

the suggestion i might add, is that if you can, try to get yourself a side gravity feed air brush. the cup is located on the side so it doesnt block your view when you paint close up, and it is still a gravity feed which is "suppose" to be better for control and detail painting compared to a bottom feed. its not essential, but if you are just starting out then why not.

also, if you can, try and get an airtank. its suppose to be better for the hot weather. what you do is paint using the air from the tank only and all the air compressor does is occasionally top up the tank when it runs below a certain limit (top up level is much at a higher pressure than your max working pressure so you still have a steady flow). that way if your air compressor overheats and hits a thermal cut out, you can still continue painting with the air supplied from the tank. plus the air compressor is not on constantly which means longer times for it to overheat.

lastly, an air brush is great for dusting and cleaning your transformers as well.
add a bit of water and bam...you also got yourself a nice way to cool yourself down in the summer...lol. ;) (just make sure you clean it real good first :o:D)

not sure why your compressor is maxing out at 23psi though. it sounds like you havent adjusted your pressure control valve and its maxing out the output pressure at the valve level. but you did mention you cranked up your idle pressure to 50+ psi which means you would have adjusted the pressure control valve, so not sure whats happening there? maybe you have a second valve somewhere? i dont have an iwata or a second moisture trap so i dunno. just guessing.

[Doubledealer]

thanks for the tips mate.
i cant believe that you ghetto'd a spray booth out of paper... nice...
what did you end up using for an exhaust fan?
post a pick of it when you are free.

Haha, well it's nothing fancy but it stops the paint from going everywhere (when I'm not knocking the airbrush over that is). Because I'm mainly using acrylics these days I just keep the laundry door open and that's about it. Do you recommend the exhaust fan option? Yours sounds pretty cool I must say. I don't really know much about exhaust fans in terms of airbrushing - does it have some sort of catcher/filter that absorbs the paint?


havent had issues with the moisture trap on mine yet so never thought about using a second inline moisture trap as well.
talk about "double bagging" dude. lol.

I dare say you've probably not had an issue due to using (at least I'm assuming you use) a compressor with an air tank. The issue seems to affect the smaller compressors like my little whippersnapper. :(


yep... you're right about the airbrush holder... need to get me one as well.
actually i might duck into stanbridges now to see if they have any.

Stanbridges eh? You'll have to let us know if they have anything up to scratch, otherwise I think many people use those cleaning station thingies that double as a holder.

http://modelmatters.com.au/images/clean_top%5B1%5D.jpeg


the suggestion i might add, is that if you can, try to get yourself a side gravity feed air brush. the cup is located on the side so it doesnt block your view when you paint close up, and it is still a gravity feed which is "suppose" to be better for control and detail painting compared to a bottom feed. its not essential, but if you are just starting out then why not.

That does sound good actually, do you reckon the paint filters into the nib just as well? It would have to be on a bit of an angle wouldn't it? :p


also, if you can, try and get an airtank. its suppose to be better for the hot weather. what you do is paint using the air from the tank only and all the air compressor does is occasionally top up the tank when it runs below a certain limit (top up level is much at a higher pressure than your max working pressure so you still have a steady flow). that way if your air compressor overheats and hits a thermal cut out, you can still continue painting with the air supplied from the tank. plus the air compressor is not on constantly which means longer times for it to overheat.

Excellent advice, and something I wish I knew before selecting my compressor! Can I ask, are these kind of compressors much more expensive, and do they make less or more noise than ones that don't have a tank?


lastly, an air brush is great for dusting and cleaning your transformers as well.
add a bit of water and bam...you also got yourself a nice way to cool yourself down in the summer...lol. ;) (just make sure you clean it real good first :o:D)

LOL, you can also run a fake tanning business on the side, just don't let the girls make you rush that last coat of paint because they want their toosh to look like a baked bean!


not sure why your compressor is maxing out at 23psi though. it sounds like you havent adjusted your pressure control valve and its maxing out the output pressure at the valve level. but you did mention you cranked up your idle pressure to 50+ psi which means you would have adjusted the pressure control valve, so not sure whats happening there? maybe you have a second valve somewhere? i dont have an iwata or a second moisture trap so i dunno. just guessing.

My air compressor is one of life's greatest mysteries. I've called Jonathan Creek for advice but even he can't help.

[bruticus]

Haha, well it's nothing fancy but it stops the paint from going everywhere (when I'm not knocking the airbrush over that is). Because I'm mainly using acrylics these days I just keep the laundry door open and that's about it. Do you recommend the exhaust fan option? Yours sounds pretty cool I must say. I don't really know much about exhaust fans in terms of airbrushing - does it have some sort of catcher/filter that absorbs the paint?

Well, im currently living in an apartment and when i first decided to get into painting it was winter time and i couldnt paint outdoors so i opted for a spray booth after consulting with the master spray painters on this forum (i.e. gamblor, rampagesss and loophole :D)
similar to this:
http://www.hobbytools.com.au/prod789.htm
it has an exhaust fan that sucks up all the spray vapours and passes through 2 filters before dumping out whats left through an exhaust hose. you are suppose to aim the hose outside a window but i was no where near a window and since i was paranoid about filling up my home with spray fumes, i ended up putting a fine white filter on the end of that exhaust hose. thankfully i did, cos i could see the gunk that built up on the 3rd filter! after a while, a friend suggested that if i couldnt find an extension hose suitable to make it longer and reach the window, then i should try dunking the hose into a bucket of water to suppress the residual paint fumes. so far thats worked. just dont kick over the bucket... or maybe the bucket needs a bucket stand as well? lol :rolleyes:

Oh, the spray booth is also pretty good for catching most of the dust when im carving up plastics and epoxy putty etc with my dremel.. those fine dust particles are pretty bad. serves me right for doing mods indoors i suppose.



I dare say you've probably not had an issue due to using (at least I'm assuming you use) a compressor with an air tank. The issue seems to affect the smaller compressors like my little whippersnapper. :(

yeah, maybe its because of my air tank. or maybe i havent fully abused my air brush in the full heat of summer? lol



Stanbridges eh? You'll have to let us know if they have anything up to scratch, otherwise I think many people use those cleaning station thingies that double as a holder.

http://modelmatters.com.au/images/clean_top%5B1%5D.jpeg



boo.. stanbridges, perth city hobby and super cheap auto dont have them.
looks like i need to ebay it.
those cleaning pot thingies are pretty cool if they can also double as a holder.



That does sound good actually, do you reckon the paint filters into the nib just as well? It would have to be on a bit of an angle wouldn't it? :p

mine has a 90degree elbow, but the paint still filters down alright. however, sometimes when the paint in the cup gets really low, it starts playing up, so you wont be able to really use the last few drops of paint in the cup consistently. but you shouldnt really let things get to that stage anyways and should be topping up the paint.



Excellent advice, and something I wish I knew before selecting my compressor! Can I ask, are these kind of compressors much more expensive, and do they make less or more noise than ones that don't have a tank?

mine was relatively cheap and its pretty quiet system too.
i bought 2x gravity feed dual action air brushes, 1x air compressor and 1x3L air tank from the ebay a while ago all for around 200AUD posted. its some random chinese brand but it does the job and hasnt carked it on me yet... (touch wood). similar to this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290382794550&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
so the air tanks shouldnt be too expensive if you are looking to get one.

but fark man.. ive read of people using air straight from scuba tanks or a make shift air tank from large coke bottles so it really just depends on what you want.

[gamblor916]

Nice topic, it's good to hear about other experiences and techniques. Here's my setup which I've used for several years, Iwata HP-CS and basic Sparmax compressor. The compressor doesn't have any pressure controls so I have to use the screw at the bottom of the trap to adjust it. Not ideal but it works ok most of the time. I just have to be careful on really humid days which luckily are not that frequent. I'm surprised at how high the pressure you guys work at. For general work mine is 15-20psi and close in detail work is 5-10psi.

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7058/p2060380cg6.jpg

I also have an Aztek which I don't really use anymore and don't recommend.

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/3459/p2060408op8.jpg

I also have a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity which is nice, but I haven't used it a lot as my Iwata does it all. I was planning to use it for fine detail work but I've found my Iwata is pretty good at that too. All the gradations are painted with the Iwata.

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/9581/p1012448h.jpg


also, if you can, try and get an airtank. its suppose to be better for the hot weather. what you do is paint using the air from the tank only and all the air compressor does is occasionally top up the tank when it runs below a certain limit (top up level is much at a higher pressure than your max working pressure so you still have a steady flow). that way if your air compressor overheats and hits a thermal cut out, you can still continue painting with the air supplied from the tank. plus the air compressor is not on constantly which means longer times for it to overheat.

This is a good idea. If my compressor dies then I would get a tank one with pressure controls. The pulsing on mine is very minimal, probably because of the trap but I think a tank would be better. That said it's still going strong and has never failed me on hot summer days.

I agree to that you need a good holder. Mine is attached to the compressor but I used to use a roll of sticky tape which got knocked over quite often.


-3M 6200 Respirator with 3M 60921 P100 cartridges (when spraying Enamels)
I use these 3m filters as well. I spray mainly Gunze lacquers and auto paints so it's a must. I also use disposable gloves.


lastly, an air brush is great for dusting and cleaning your transformers as well.
add a bit of water and bam...you also got yourself a nice way to cool yourself down in the summer...lol. (just make sure you clean it real good first )

Good idea! :D
I always give the parts a spray of air to clean off dust before applying paint.

I have one of these Gunze cleaning pots, brand new if anyone is interested for $20 shipped anywhere.
http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZPS-257

[primatives]

just a question that air compressor at the top looks very similar to this one from total tools just without all the stickers and black paint. I don't know


http://www.totaltools.com.au/icat/pdf.php?id=358

i think its $169 and u can get it cheaper on sales

[liegeprime]

honestly, I have no idea what you guys are talking about, but it's good to know there is this thread when I finally do get an airbrush ( that is in line with some other stuff to buy list) at least I have a reference to go to and know who to ask for experience and such. :D:D

[Doubledealer]

Well, im currently living in an apartment and when i first decided to get into painting it was winter time and i couldnt paint outdoors so i opted for a spray booth after consulting with the master spray painters on this forum (i.e. gamblor, rampagesss and loophole :D)
similar to this:
http://www.hobbytools.com.au/prod789.htm
it has an exhaust fan that sucks up all the spray vapours and passes through 2 filters before dumping out whats left through an exhaust hose. you are suppose to aim the hose outside a window but i was no where near a window and since i was paranoid about filling up my home with spray fumes, i ended up putting a fine white filter on the end of that exhaust hose. thankfully i did, cos i could see the gunk that built up on the 3rd filter! after a while, a friend suggested that if i couldnt find an extension hose suitable to make it longer and reach the window, then i should try dunking the hose into a bucket of water to suppress the residual paint fumes. so far thats worked. just dont kick over the bucket... or maybe the bucket needs a bucket stand as well? lol :rolleyes:

I have the option of painting outdoors but I'd have to be tripping balls before I'd even think about trying it in Perth. Is it just me or is this city like living in a wind tunnel? Every day I ride to work I can hear this wretched voice inside my head saying 'You're not streamlined enough, stop eating so many Freddo's and maybe you'll get to work faster!'. Shut up! I retort as I pedal like a madman against a wind so fierce, I have to be on the 1st gear just to go down a hill.

On a serious note, that spray booth looks brilliant! I just hope for your sake no one puts the bucket on top of a door on April fools. ;)


yeah, maybe its because of my air tank. or maybe i havent fully abused my air brush in the full heat of summer? lol

lol, you could be right on that last point. Gotta keep the dream alive though, right? :p


boo.. stanbridges, perth city hobby and super cheap auto dont have them.
looks like i need to ebay it.
those cleaning pot thingies are pretty cool if they can also double as a holder.

That's odd isn't it considering how necessary they really are. If you're passionate about your business you'd think you'd think of these things...Ah well, group order? :p


but fark man.. ive read of people using air straight from scuba tanks or a make shift air tank from large coke bottles so it really just depends on what you want.

Why did I just imagine someone using a Nitrous Oxide tank for airbrushing...It would certainly make the time between coats more enjoyable!


Nice topic, it's good to hear about other experiences and techniques. Here's my setup which I've used for several years, Iwata HP-CS and basic Sparmax compressor. The compressor doesn't have any pressure controls so I have to use the screw at the bottom of the trap to adjust it. Not ideal but it works ok most of the time. I just have to be careful on really humid days which luckily are not that frequent. I'm surprised at how high the pressure you guys work at. For general work mine is 15-20psi and close in detail work is 5-10psi.

That compressor looks remarkably similar to my own, do you ever get the spluttery water thing with yours, gamblor? Interesting to hear about the psi levels you work with. I might have to try some of the lower settings to see if it allows better control. I basically just stuck with 23 as I'd heard a lot of people work at 25psi and 23's as high as my stinkin' compressor will go. Not sure what the rationale is behind using 25psi though...

Oh and Bruticus, when are we going to see your customs mate? :p


just a question that air compressor at the top looks very similar to this one from total tools just without all the stickers and black paint. I don't know


http://www.totaltools.com.au/icat/pdf.php?id=358

i think its $169 and u can get it cheaper on sales

You mean the one in the bottom left?? Sounds pretty good to me, although might be worth googling it to get some opinions on its performance?

Liege, it's all pretty confusing when you start out. That's why I created the thread! So any questions you may have now or in the future, let us know. :)

[gamblor916]

That compressor looks remarkably similar to my own, do you ever get the spluttery water thing with yours, gamblor? Interesting to hear about the psi levels you work with. I might have to try some of the lower settings to see if it allows better control. I basically just stuck with 23 as I'd heard a lot of people work at 25psi and 23's as high as my stinkin' compressor will go. Not sure what the rationale is behind using 25psi though...

It's happened once or twice in about 5 years. It's annoying having water droplets ruin an otherwise good paintjob but it's a relatively easy fix.

I've found it's a balancing act between thickness of the paint, the air temperature, and air pressure. The higher the air temp, the thinner the paint and lower the pressure which I prefer. For me around 25 degrees is the perfect spraying temperature. Under 20 degrees the silvers and chromes especially go cloudy or less bright.

[Draksprime]

I got a Iwata 925 with the HP.CP airbrush for xmas and its working great. I too looked at chiacago but went with a local supplier which ended up around 100 dearer, but warranty is local which was a factor for me. The Iwata is super quite and has the moister trap built in.

The air brush holder is super cool but as its glass be carefull not to drop it, it smashes into a 1000 pieces ;)

I built my own spray booth as most of my work is done at night. Just buy a big 120 - 150 ltr clear container from kmart and the like and go from there. I put 4 computer fans at the back to take the air out and so far so good.

I have the pressure for painting set really low most of the time like 10 -15 psi and use all kinds of paints from autos to Acrylics, (auto paints I only use outside).

[gamblor916]

Where's a good place to get 3M filters?
My current mask needs replacing and I need to get a bunch of filters as well.
Normally I get them off ebay from here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-7178-P95-ORGANIC-VAPOR-HALF-MASK-ASSEMBLY-MEDIUM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e55832f30QQitemZ13028 3679536QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools). I usually get these filters (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130189264868&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT) and pre-filters (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130221763509&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT).

[Doubledealer]

Where's a good place to get 3M filters?
My current mask needs replacing and I need to get a bunch of filters as well.
Normally I get them off ebay from here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-7178-P95-ORGANIC-VAPOR-HALF-MASK-ASSEMBLY-MEDIUM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e55832f30QQitemZ13028 3679536QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools). I usually get these filters (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130189264868&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT) and pre-filters (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130221763509&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT).

These are the ones I have/get:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200440074516#ht_1316wt_1139 They are great and dead sexy to boot. :p

Well, I certainly learnt something the hard way today. Yesterday I put my custom Guzzle's legs together. The legs have a rod which the knee feeds onto, and because I'd painted the rods I had to use a bit of force to get the knee on there. Once they were on, I tried to move the knee joints and duh, it's tighter than a flea's @$$ over a rain barrel. So (today) I start pulling the knee's off the legs again. One was a bit of a struggle but eventually came off...The other one, however, was wedged in so tight I actually snapped 2/3's of rod off the leg (while still attached to the knee). :( Miraculously though, I sanded off the stump that remained, tried screwing it all back together and it's actually perfect now...Phew. That was a close one!

On a less stressful note, my order of ProModeller Acrylic Black wash arrived today from the UK. :D I can't wait to try this stuff out, although I'll have to gloss clear coat the parts I use it on first.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu332/Doubledealer_83/blackwash.jpg

[Doubledealer]

DD's Airbrushing Tip o' the Day:

Okay, so here's the scenario. You've taped up the painted area's of your Transformer you don't want to be sprayed a certain colour. You spray the new colour after which you then remove the tape. Oh Noes!, you then discover some of the paint has seeped through onto the area's that were masked. If this happens and the paint that was taped is of a lighter colour than the new shade of paint, this can be a real PITA to fix (especially if using acrylics).

My answer?

1. Wait 1 (preferably 2) days for the new paint to properly dry
2. Tape around the area that's been 'graffitied'
3. Veeery gently sand the graffitied area using 1000grit sandpaper (you don't want to sand the primer off!).
4. Dust off the area using your airbrush (use high psi) or eyeshadow makeup brush
5. Respray the area

Done! :)

[gamblor916]

That's a good tip. If the overspray is light you can polish the marks out too.

[Doubledealer]

Another tip for ya, bots or 'Learn from DD's stupid mistakes' if you prefer. :rolleyes:

Earlier this evening I was doing a bit more work on my Custom Guzzle and accidentally managed to clog up some of the visor detail by spraying too heavily. I instantly panicked and stupidly tried to rub off the paint before it solidified. Of course this made things considerably worse and left me about ready to cry to be honest. :( At this point I wasn't in the right state of mind to continue working so I went away and blasted some music (as you do) while I tried to think of a solution.

I later went back to my workstation and looked at all of my cleaning type products. One option seemed more logical that others, that being the stuff I use to clean my airbrush, Windex. So I'm thinking, well I've $%&#ed it this badly, what's the worst it can do? So I get a cotton bud, dip it in Windex then rub it over the affected area. My god. Like a purifying ray of light from the skies above, the Windex miraculously takes away all the paint bar the motherflipping primer. Words cannot describe the sheer elation I'm feeling at this stage. He's saved! Praaaaaise the lord! :D

Does anyone know what you'd do if using enamels? I imagine it would be way harder to get off but if someone knows I'd love to know (as I'm sure other do).

[gamblor916]

Simple Green will take off enamels and I think acrylics too but won't shift lacquers. Putting the parts in a bath of the stuff overnight will usually be enough.

[blackoptimus]

Does anyone want to paint up a couple of g1's for me? I'd kindly pay you for the job. :)

[M-bot]

Thread necromancy!! For any budding customisers out there, especially those wanting to try out airbrushing, the latest Aldi catalogue has a air compressor, regulator, hose and 2 basic gravity feed dual action airbrushes for $99. Pretty good value, especially to learn with. Page 8 of the current catalogue, for sale Saturday 18th of July.

[UltraMarginal]

Thread necromancy!! For any budding customisers out there, especially those wanting to try out airbrushing, the latest Aldi catalogue has a air compressor, regulator, hose and 2 basic gravity feed dual action airbrushes for $99. Pretty good value, especially to learn with. Page 8 of the current catalogue, for sale Saturday 18th of July.

That's pretty attractive. I might consider it, thanks for the heads up.

[Thurmus]

I was given a couple of old Star Wars models by a mate. Every time I tried to paint them it would not stay on. I have been advised an airbrush is the best option.

I like making dioramas and toys out of pine for the kids as well.

I suppose I am wondering what is a good set up for a beginner? I have seen kits on Ebay but am not really sure where to start.
A guy at a hobby shop recommended one where you could adjust a pin to make it not spray as much paint as well.
Also I want to know if I can use it to paint the stuff I make the kids out of pine. It is stuff like a monster truck track and jumps for My Little Ponies.


Thanks

[M-bot]

I was given a couple of old Star Wars models by a mate. Every time I tried to paint them it would not stay on. I have been advised an airbrush is the best option.

I like making dioramas and toys out of pine for the kids as well.

I suppose I am wondering what is a good set up for a beginner? I have seen kits on Ebay but am not really sure where to start.
A guy at a hobby shop recommended one where you could adjust a pin to make it not spray as much paint as well.
Also I want to know if I can use it to paint the stuff I make the kids out of pine. It is stuff like a monster truck track and jumps for My Little Ponies.


Thanks

I love my airbrush. Once you go down the airbrush path, you'll never look back.

There was a great deal at ALDI (couple of posts back) in July, you might get lucky with stock at your local. Personally, I'd suggest a dual action gravity feed. They're not difficult to learn how to use, but it does take practice and a lot of trial and error to get really good results.

[UltraMarginal]

When the deal was on at Aldi I checked eBay and there were a lot of units on there that appeared similar if not slightly better delivered for about the same amount so there are definitely other options out there for cheap systems.

[reillyd]

When the deal was on at Aldi I checked eBay and there were a lot of units on there that appeared similar if not slightly better delivered for about the same amount so there are definitely other options out there for cheap systems.

Can you suggest a particular brand of model for a beginner? I don't know what to look for, and what features are important

[UltraMarginal]

not really as I don't have one myself yet, I was just comparing stuff on ebay against the product at Aldi.

[gamblor916]

Iwata Neo is a good starting point.
A double action brush where you can control both the air and amount of paint coming out is probably the most important thing to look for. Gravity fed so you can use just a tiny bit of paint for detail work when needed.

Iwatas are great, so are Harder & Steenbeck brushes. HLJ have the H&S ones listed under Airtex.

[UltraMarginal]

I did figure out that a compressor with an air tank is a good thing, it means you don't have the compressor going all the time and you also get more consistent airflow.

[Thurmus]

Hoping I can get some help/advice.

I am not happy with the background for my diorama. I need to touch some things up and it is my first attempt. I painted the sky three different shades going down like various web pages said and it looks OK (just). But I am not happy with where the sky meets the ground/fence. I just feel something is missing and am not sure what.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Also things are not in their final places and the roof needs finishing etc.

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag353/Thurmus/Breakout%20Battle%20Diorama/180920151619_zpsxz8ydafn.jpg (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/Thurmus/media/Breakout%20Battle%20Diorama/180920151619_zpsxz8ydafn.jpg.html)

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag353/Thurmus/Breakout%20Battle%20Diorama/180920151620_zpss51j3uzy.jpg (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/Thurmus/media/Breakout%20Battle%20Diorama/180920151620_zpss51j3uzy.jpg.html)

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag353/Thurmus/Breakout%20Battle%20Diorama/180920151621_zpstec63m69.jpg (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/Thurmus/media/Breakout%20Battle%20Diorama/180920151621_zpstec63m69.jpg.html)

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag353/Thurmus/Breakout%20Battle%20Diorama/180920151622_zpsmbs6nusi.jpg (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/Thurmus/media/Breakout%20Battle%20Diorama/180920151622_zpsmbs6nusi.jpg.html)

[UltraMarginal]

I like the graduation in the sky, perhaps you need to break it up a bit. put some clouds on there and break up the horizon with some longer grass or trees, even just silhouettes.

[laproblematique]

Looking to get into custom jobs and wanting to start on some of those Jakks Pacific oversized figures.

Can you guys recommend some good places to pick up cheap (good enough quality) clear primer, some small paintbrushes and some metallic silver paint to start with?

I'm guessing places like Mitre 10 or Big W would be good cheap starts but just thought I'd ask if there's some hidden gem budget brands when it comes to these basics for customisation.

Cheers!

[FatalityPitt]

If anyone in Melbourne is looking for paints, brushes, etc, for customising; there's a pretty good shop on Swanston Street (near Flinders St Station) called Metro Hobbies (https://metrohobbies.com.au/). They got Tamiya and Mr.Hobby paints (enamel and acryllic), spray paint, etc. They also sell lots of model kits like Gundams if you're into those.

[M-bot]

Riot Art (country wide art supply chain) has a deal at the moment (until 15/8/17 if memory serves) that if you spend $30 on paint brushes, you get another $30 worth free. They have a pretty extensive range. I went there today and am now set for a good couple of years I reckon.:cool:

[Thurmus]

So I am finally in the airbrush crew.

My work gave me a prepaid credit card with some cash on it to say thank you for picking up the slack left by others and doing a couple of interstate trips and a heap of report writing.

Picked up a $99 Aldi compressor with a tank the other week. It came with a single action siphon airbrush which I didn't realise until I opened the box. I also have in transit an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with hose, some fittings and other accessories. I also have a regulator/water trap coming from another place.

Need to get some pipettes, some paints, gun cleaner and whatever else I have forgotten. Once I have things together it is look out M-Bot.

[UltraMarginal]

cool, it's something I'd like to get into, maybe I'll have a bit more space for that in a little while.

[Thurmus]

To anyone interested, the Aldi at The Pines in Doncaster has about 8 of the Airbrush Compressors with the tank and siphon airbrush in their clearance area.

I didn't see the price but it should be less than the $99 I paid. They also have black, white, red, yellow, blue, green, silver and gold airbrush paint for $1 a bottle.

If anyone wants me to grab one for them and hold on to it until they can pick it up I am happy to. They had about 6 boxes of the paints with four of each colour in a box except the metallic colours where there are two of each.

[Thurmus]

Had a look tonight. They are $69.

[UltraMarginal]

That's a great price for a reasonable quality set up.

[DELTAprime]

Are there any paints that I should look at in particular to recolour WFCS Soundwave's visor from toy accurate yellow to cartoon accurate red?

I'd like a bit of transparency if possible to preserve the light piping.

[M-bot]

Are there any paints that I should look at in particular to recolour WFCS Soundwave's visor from toy accurate yellow to cartoon accurate red?

I'd like a bit of transparency if possible to preserve the light piping.

You can get transparent paints in acrylics (like Tamiya) that you can hand- or air-brush. My paint of choice is SMS lacquers (that have a transparent red) via the airbrush but I wouldn’t recommend that if you have only limited experience.

Keep in mind that it needs to be done in several very thin layers over time, rather than one sitting, especially if you don’t want the red to come out too dark. The Tamiya paint will need a little watering down before use. And if you go with a transparent red paint (to maintain the light piping) the overall colour may have an orange tinge because of the base yellow.

[SMHFConvoy]

Are there any paints that I should look at in particular to recolour WFCS Soundwave's visor from toy accurate yellow to cartoon accurate red?

I'd like a bit of transparency if possible to preserve the light piping.

If you can dismantle the head a quick and dirty way of doing this is with a red sharpie. Only if you can pull the head apart though!

Although... If you pull apart a sharpie and squeeze out some pigment and use a fine tip brush to apply the ink. I'd test that out on a plastic spoon or junker figure first.

[gamblor916]

I really like the new Tamiya lacquers. They lay down fairly smooth with a paintbrush but out of the airbrush they are sublime.

[SMHFConvoy]

Ordered a cheap beginners airbrush and compressor yesterday, spent this afternoon making a cleaning pot out of a Sodastream bottle and all my lizard hind brain can think is, "cool, I made a b*ng."

[Thurmus]

For anyone interested the latest Aldi catalogue has the compressor and siphon airbrush kit for $79 in the latest catalogue.

[UltraMarginal]

It's very tempting, but I really do wonder if I'd ever get around to using it.

[UltraMarginal]

For anyone interested the latest Aldi catalogue has the compressor and siphon airbrush kit for $79 in the latest catalogue.

I remember looking this up and doing some research when they had it on sale a couple of years ago.

Probably the biggest drawback of this set is the lack of a reservoir tank to help keep airflow consistant, not having any direct response to the pump.
there are a couple alternatives here (https://www.ebay.com.au/p/KMS-Airbrush-Compressor-Tank-As186/1407582213)and here (https://www.catch.com.au/product/1-6hp-air-compressor-20-23l-min-with-3-litres-tank-551881/?offer_id=691777&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3uboBRDCARIsAO2XcYBvreTEnXRnBnBm9ekE TpCn6dT4h6PpyntgBqdCpEvmVJvHw4o1Fw8aApTLEALw_wcB)t hat have that feature.

they are still cheap pumps, like the one at Aldi, so probably not as good as something you spend 400 or $500 on but for the amount of spray work I'll ever do any one of the 3 would do the job.

[Thurmus]

Sorry. Didn't realise that. The one I got last time had the tank.

[gamblor916]

You don't need the tank. The air in my setup goes from the compressor to 2 moisture traps and 2 lengths of hose so any pulsing is negligible by the time it gets to the airbrush.

[SMHFConvoy]

Bought a compressor that came with an airbrush recently, just uses an electric compressor, suits my beginner needs and after replacing the airbrush I'm discovering the joy of painting yellow in thin consecutive layers.

I guess light colours, sorry tints (google it :D), have to be done this way?

[M-bot]

Bought a compressor that came with an airbrush recently, just uses an electric compressor, suits my beginner needs and after replacing the airbrush I'm discovering the joy of painting yellow in thin consecutive layers.

I guess light colours, sorry tints (google it :D), have to be done this way?

For best results, they should all be done this way.

[SMHFConvoy]

Anyone airbrush using acrylic inks, in particular white? I have questions.

[Thurmus]

M-Bot used to. He uses lacquers now but I am sure the topic will peak his interest next time he is on.

[M-bot]

Anyone airbrush using acrylic inks, in particular white? I have questions.

Inks? As opposed to paints? I have used paints, for sure, so much better through the airbrush than hand brushing. Any questions, just shoot. :)

[SMHFConvoy]

A number of mini painters are starting to recommend using acrylic inks from Daler Rowney and Liquitex, apparently white ink works better than white acrylic paint


https://youtu.be/cRfkM6RGIrs

I picked up a bottle of white from Daler Rowney white, flows nicely but it pooled on the figure's surface. So it could be one of 3 things, air pressure (which I can't control because I'm using an electric compressor) the primer or the primed surface being greasy from handling.

[gamblor916]

Looks like an interesting product. Thanks for the link.

[M-bot]

A number of mini painters are starting to recommend using acrylic inks from Daler Rowney and Liquitex, apparently white ink works better than white acrylic paint


https://youtu.be/cRfkM6RGIrs

I picked up a bottle of white from Daler Rowney white, flows nicely but it pooled on the figure's surface. So it could be one of 3 things, air pressure (which I can't control because I'm using an electric compressor) the primer or the primed surface being greasy from handling.

Maybe the ink is too thin, or you’re laying it down too thick? Try finer thinner layers, that might help.

[gamblor916]

I can't adjust the air pressure on my compressor also, so I open the valve on the moisture trap to adjust it there, plus I have the Mr Drain and dust catcher attachment (https://www.hlj.com/mr-drain-dust-catcher-ii-light-w-air-adjustment-function-gnzps388) to also adjust it and serve as a moisture trap.

[Ralph Wiggum]

I did some airbrushing on the weekend and had an initial moment of paint pooling. Figured it was a remnant of the airbrush cleaner which I used to do an initial run through but didn?t clear thoroughly.

For what its worth I mix 1:2 ratio of Tamiya acrylic with Tamiya enamel thinner, with the compressor about 20-25 psi.

[Thurmus]

I went to airbrush on the weekend. My mask was covered in dust from sanding so I took out the dust filters and hosed it off. When I went to put the paint filters in I realised the hose had blown off one of the rubber disks that seal when you breath out. Have to try and find where I can get replacements. Swearing ensued.

[SMHFConvoy]

I can't adjust the air pressure on my compressor also, so I open the valve on the moisture trap to adjust it there, plus I have the Mr Drain and dust catcher attachment (https://www.hlj.com/mr-drain-dust-catcher-ii-light-w-air-adjustment-function-gnzps388) to also adjust it and serve as a moisture trap.

I'll have to look into getting a moisture trap

[Thurmus]

I bought one from an Australian Ebay store but it was basically the same as this one from Bunnings and about the same price with shipping.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-1-4-mini-filter-compressor-regulator_p6210579

[SMHFConvoy]

I bought one from an Australian Ebay store but it was basically the same as this one from Bunnings and about the same price with shipping.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-1-4-mini-filter-compressor-regulator_p6210579

Thanks, you reminded me that Bunnings sold airbrushes and accessories, plus a Bunnings is just behind my house

[Thurmus]

What a dream house. They are building a Bunnings on the opposite corner from my work with apartments on top but it won't be finished until 2020/21. Why God Why?

[SMHFConvoy]

What a dream house. They are building a Bunnings on the opposite corner from my work with apartments on top but it won't be finished until 2020/21. Why God Why?

They finished it last year and there's a Mitre 10 a bit further down, it's a small one servicing the Katoomba community.

[gamblor916]

I started to find dark flecks in my paint jobs so I had to have a look at my needle assembly. Turns out that I had a layer of crud that built up over time. Cleaned it out with wire brush cleaners and piksters so hopefully I'll keep this in check.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036580813_dc66a7d29e_o.jpg

[UltraMarginal]

thats neat!

[Dan]

Thanks but - dammit - I only just now noticed that I put my comment in the wrong sub-section of this creative stuff section. Should I delete and re-post elsewhere?

[gamblor916]

You can make a new thread for it.

[SMHFConvoy]

Prepping a figure for painting and I tried giving the surface of the toy a light scrub with a steel brush which scuffs the plastic, providing tooth for the primer to grab onto.

[Thurmus]

What is the best method for removing the gum from masking tape without leaving residue that ruins attempts to paint over where it was? I am painting wood.

[SMHFConvoy]

To reduce the tackiness of masking tape put the tape strip on your clothes and peel it off, do this a few times.

I've also heard that it's a good idea to peel the masking tape off of the surface you're painting, a few minutes after it's been painted but I've never tried this trick.

[Thurmus]

So several months is not advised? :)

[SMHFConvoy]

So several months is not advised? :)

I know it's a joke but a long period of time could go 2 ways:

1.The tape peels away, it might ruin that clean paint job you did 7 months ago.

2.It peels away damaging the masked paint job you 7 months ago and leaving behind a sticky residue from the masking tape that you now have to
clean up.

[Thurmus]

It came off OK because it had cured properly before I put it on. But there are small mounds of sticky goo where the tape was in places.

[Ralph Wiggum]

What is the best method for removing the gum from masking tape without leaving residue that ruins attempts to paint over where it was? I am painting wood.

Use painters tape, which is designed to avoid leaving behind any residue.

[SMHFConvoy]

Found an old bottle of Vallejo black primer, it smells like Dettol does this mean it's gone bad?

[gamblor916]

Sometimes you can rescue old paint by adding thinners and let it sit overnight. I know this works with lacquers not really sure about acrylics.

[SMHFConvoy]

The pigment and vehicle had separated but shaking it solved that and the primer is like when I first bought it, it just smells like Dettol.

[SMHFConvoy]

Just wondering, acrylic paint is a safer alternative to enamel paint, if I build a clean box to airbrush in fumes should be minimal right? I don't have access to any exhaust fans at the moment and can't open the windows because of smoke from the bushfires.

[Ralph Wiggum]

No, acrylic is still toxic when airbrushing; its the fine mist and particles getting into your respiratory system which is also a hazard:

I use one of these (actually a single filter which I can?t find on the website) when airbrushing now:

https://www.bunnings.com./protector-respirator-kit_p5822368

Combined with one of these gas/vapour filters:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/protector-gas-vapour-respirator-filter_p6327945

Creates a perfect seal on my face and I don?t smell a thing when I?m airbrushing.

In any event, acrylic paints are way easier to clean than enamel, especially when using an airbrush.

[SMHFConvoy]

I have a face mask but I need something that minimises spray to the rest of the household.

[SMHFConvoy]

Upgraded air compressor, the instructions suggest cleaning the moisture trap every 3 months but how do I unscrew it? It's bolted on tight, YouTube and Google show how to maintain commercial compressors.

[gamblor916]

Moisture traps don't usually require cleaning. Just make sure to get rid of any accumulated water though. There should be a valve or screw to release.

[SMHFConvoy]

All I've got is some sort of spring release at the bottom but it doesn't seem to do much, it looks like I can unscrew the acrylic tube but I'll have to buy some adjustable pliers

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49795838571_95b23f58e1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iShFWT)
IMG_20200420_094136 (https://flic.kr/p/2iShFWT) by Nathan Soehardi (https://www.flickr.com/photos/144750788@N08/), on Flickr

[Ralph Wiggum]

I?ve got the same thing on my compressor and I?ve never touched the moisture trap. Nor have I seen any collection of moisture. I?d suggest leaving it.

[Jaxius._]

Thought this might be a good place to ask (as well as Facebook)
My aldi airbrush finally died and I’m wondering whats the best thing to replace it with that isn’t going to cost an arm and a leg?

[SMHFConvoy]

Thought this might be a good place to ask (as well as Facebook)
My aldi airbrush finally died and I’m wondering whats the best thing to replace it with that isn’t going to cost an arm and a leg?

The compressor? I got mine from ebay, just an generic compressor with tank $150 - $200.

[Trent]

Are there any good beginners airbrush kits out there? I’m looking at just a few small jobs and was investigating the Aldi kit but I read a lot of feedback on the interweb that it was mediocre at best.

[1AZRAEL1]

Following. I feel like buying a decent hobby kit too. If lockdown won't end until October like predicted, I've got 5 weeks off that I'm gonna need something to do at home

[gamblor916]

It really depends on how serious you are going to be now and in the future. You can get a cheap airbrush, get frustrated by it falling apart or getting bad results and give up on it. I started off with a shitty Aztek before getting a nice Iwata HP-CS, which I've had for more than 10 years and still going strong. There's a bit of wear and tear but I've never had to replace any parts and it still sprays like new.

Looking on HLJ there are nice double action brushes for around $100. Look for a gravity fed, double action brush with a paint cup big enough for you needs.

If I was starting out I'd buy something like this Wave (https://www.hlj.com/super-airbrush-jr-2-0-3mm-wavht-431) or Neo (https://www.hlj.com/airbrush-hp-cn-0-35mm-1-5-7ml-aiwhp-cn).

[SMHFConvoy]

Although with a cheap kit you can learn a lot about your machine through maintenance and not be scared of breaking it.

[Seraphim Prime]

Hey folks,

Looking to try my hand at a few small repaints/customs.

I'm probably looking at getting some aerosol primers and base coats. What brands/products do you recommend.

What is the benefit of an airbrush compared to aerosols? Is it simply the ability to mix up your own colours?

[Ralph Wiggum]

Tamiya aerosols and paint are my go-to.

Aerosols
Pros: ready to use, especially good for beginners. No need to worry about which air brush or compressor to buy. No need to figure out how to mix and get the paint/thinner ratio right. Great for larger panels/parts.
Cons: Probably less economical in the long term. Wasted on smaller parts as you have less control over the spray. Less choice of colours.

Airbrush
Pros: Once you master it, you?ll never go back to hand brushing. Better control and good for smaller parts. More choice of colours. In the long term more economical.
Cons: more expensive outlay at the start. Takes a little bit of time to master mixing and spraying.

I use aerosol for my base coat as I can bulk spray the parts on the tree, which leaves the airbrush solely for paints.

[DarkAxalonSyde]

I've been thinking about trying my hand at custom-painting a figure and I've seen reference to the idea of applying what I think is floor polish to the finished work, to protect the paint. Would anyone here say that's advisable and if so, what are some good brands and/or types to go with, here in Australia? Thanks in advance.

[snaketales]

I've seen American sites refer to Future Floor Polish but I haven't found any in WA. I use Tamiya's flat clear spray for my work.
I don't know if it adds protection but it 'levels out' the differing shininess of the paints used and generally makes them look nicer. Plus it can take some of the stickiness away.
I get mine from hobby shops. I have seen Bunnings stock gloss and semi-gloss clear sprays but haven't tried them.

Hope that helps.

[Ralph Wiggum]

A top coat is definitely advisable if you want to protect your paintwork, just use Tamiya clear coat, matte and/or gloss. It comes in a spray can for quick and easy application.

[Dkaris]

Something I saw in a video that I've tried is flushing my airbrush with warm water between colorvswaos, it seems to help clean it out a bit better than cold water

[DarkAxalonSyde]

I've seen American sites refer to Future Floor Polish but I haven't found any in WA. I use Tamiya's flat clear spray for my work.
I don't know if it adds protection but it 'levels out' the differing shininess of the paints used and generally makes them look nicer. Plus it can take some of the stickiness away.
I get mine from hobby shops. I have seen Bunnings stock gloss and semi-gloss clear sprays but haven't tried them.

Hope that helps.


A top coat is definitely advisable if you want to protect your paintwork, just use Tamiya clear coat, matte and/or gloss. It comes in a spray can for quick and easy application.

Thanks for the advice. Will look into getting Tamiya brand coats.

[Thurmus]

Aldi has their airbrush kit in the new catalogue. I have one of these and it is really good.
https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-buys/special-buys-sat-23-july/saturday-detail-wk29/ps/p/air-brush-compressor-kit-3/

[Thurmus]

The Aldi kit has the filter but no tank. Bunnings has the Ozito version of the kit with the tank but I don't think the filter for around the same price on special.

[gamblor916]

I just bought one for the filter. Runs ok, small cheap compressor.

[Trent]

A year or 2 ago my brother gave me his airbrush kit. He told me the needle needs replacing but doesn’t remember what size as it’s been years since he used it. It’s an Iwata HP-C Plus. Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement needle for it? Not knowing the lingo makes it hard to work out what I need to buy.

Also, as I’m o my starting out with PLA+ on my printer, what should I buy to paint it with?

Thanks.

[Thurmus]

I think that is the same model that I have. I got a spare needle and a cleaning kit from a mob in Adelaide. I will have a look in the garage tomorrow and let you know where I got it or if not what you need to ask for.

[gamblor916]

That's a nice solid airbrush. These are the parts you might need. Ideally they should be paired but if the nozzle is fine and not cracked it should be ok with just replacing the needle.

For paint Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics are relatively safe and spray nicely.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52664752729_45d2e713f4_o.jpg

[Trent]

I think that is the same model that I have. I got a spare needle and a cleaning kit from a mob in Adelaide. I will have a look in the garage tomorrow and let you know where I got it or if not what you need to ask for.


That's a nice solid airbrush. These are the parts you might need. Ideally they should be paired but if the nozzle is fine and not cracked it should be ok with just replacing the needle.

For paint Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics are relatively safe and spray nicely.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52664752729_45d2e713f4_o.jpg

Cheers guys. I’ll have to buy both the nozzle and the tip because I do t actually know what size they are. I assume they are whatever the airbrush came with but my brother doesn’t remember if he ever changed anything out.