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kup
22nd February 2010, 10:08 PM
From the February thread (http://www.otca.com.au/boards/showthread.php?p=152571#post152571):


Mate that looks sensational, great job! Coincidentally I have a partially discoloured Grotusque on his way as we speak (on his shoulders)...I might have to get you show me how to give him this glorious HP bath of supreme whiteness. :p

It's pretty simple.

Need:

- Get a clear glass jar with a seal tight lid (I use an mayonnaise jar like this one (http://www.benedikts.com/uploads/UNMAY-Ungers-mayonnaise-473.jpg) with the label removed)
- Buy a Jar of Hydrogen Peroxide (http://www.getprice.com.au/images/uploadimg/622/350__1_dscn2930.gif) with at least 6% w/v from a Pharmacy or Super Market (Pharmacy is more reliable)
- Fill the glass container with the appropriate volume of Hydgrogen Peroxide depending on the size of the yellowed piece.
- Once the piece is submerged, expose the jar to sunlight for a few days (oh the irony! :p) until the plastic color is 'corrected' to your satisfaction. During this process you will see thousands of small bubbles covering the surface of the plastic - This is the Hydrogen Peroxide at work.

Advice: Try not to have too many pieces of plastic in one jar. The crowding of pieces slows the process as they shield each other from sunlight.

Note 1: Some plastics are more successful at regaining their color than others but something that seems consistent from my experience is that there is always a considerable improvement. It seems that different plastic types regain their colors at different rates - The level of yellowing is also a factor in the length of the submerged time period.

Warning: Hydrogen Peroxide is corrosive to metal. However from what's available in retail, the level of concentration is so low that it seems negligible. I have not seen any corrosion in metal rods and pins joining plastic parts even after being submerged for a couple of weeks.

Warning 2: Although most painted parts will not be affected by the Hydrogen Peroxide, there is documentation that some do. Toys with painted detailing which fades with exposure to the Hydrogen Peroxide includes: AM Megatron (Purple).

VERY IMPORTANT WARNING: Hydrogen Peroxide is also toxic so try to avoid exposing your skin to it. Try to use gloves and if it goes on your skin, wash the affected area immediately.

Note 2: I have used this process in at least half a dozen toys without any ill effects to the plastic even after more than a couple of weeks submerged. It's been about a year's time since my first attempt and the plastic of the toy in question is still fine. However regardless of success, the plastic is still vulnerable to yellowing again if exposed to UV rays because that's the nature of the plastic.

Disclaimer: Although I have been successful with several toys using this procedure and I have not observed any ill effects on the plastic - there is no guarantee that it will work for you and there is always the possibility that some plastics may not react well to the Hydrogen Peroxide so proceed at your own risk.

Notes specific to Grotusque:

Grotusque has a big pin that joins his legs together - You cannot remove this without breaking the plastic. The best thing to do so that his yellowing can be fixed is to separate the whole 'legs' assembly and remove every single screw that you can find so that you don't have to unnecessarily expose them to the HP. Unyellowed plastic does not seem to be affected by the Peroxide but still try to separate as many 'healthy' pieces from the assembly as possible.

The top half of the body is easy to separate so if its just the shoulder, you shouldn't have any problem removing the affected piece.

heroic_decepticon
22nd February 2010, 10:38 PM
Great stuff. Thanks for reducing all that knowledge to words. It will certain come in useful for me when I have time to start restoring some TFs. :D

kgb2005
23rd February 2010, 12:12 AM
Umm this might sound stupid but this will also destroy any sticker work right?

kup
23rd February 2010, 12:23 AM
Umm this might sound stupid but this will also destroy any sticker work right?

It doesn't destroy them but it does loosen them off. However you can always reattach them with some glue paste. And there is always Reprolabels.

Regardless, keep in mind that a stickerless toy is much better looking than a yellowed stickered one.

blackie
23rd February 2010, 01:08 AM
It doesn't destroy them but it does loosen them off. However you can always reattach them with some glue paste. And there is always Reprolabels.

Regardless, keep in mind that a stickerless toy is much better looking than a yellowed stickered one.

unless you have yellow fever :P

(couldnt help myself)

kgb2005
23rd February 2010, 01:40 AM
Thank you for that bit of information. Just wanted to know I was planning on doing my G1 Jetfire a figure I have had since I was a child and was curious to know how bad would the chemical react with the red paint and the other material and colors on jetfire?

jgon2098
23rd February 2010, 05:41 AM
This has been mentioned in the past, I'll bump it again.

The peroxide will 'deactivate' the rub-sign. However, I would highly recommend not to try and peel off the rub-sign, as more likely than not, you'll end up removing the transparency instead of the actual full 'decal', (reason: the glue under the decal has had 20 years to 'cure', i.e. difficult to peel off cleanly in one go) the omission of the transparency will also 'de-activate' the rub-sign. So your better off with a peroxided rub-sign than a disgustingly handled one, leaving you to make efficient use of your saliva to remove the remaining residual.

I really really doubt the above would deter anyone from applying this method as a reborn whitened toy > no rub-sign toy anyday.

Doubledealer
23rd February 2010, 07:09 AM
Thanks for the tute, Kup. :) You say to leave it in there for a few days, so what happens at night? Is it worth removing the pieces from the jar, drying them off then putting them back in the next day or just leave it all in there until tender and juicy?

1AZRAEL1
23rd February 2010, 08:14 AM
I have a few pieces I would like to try this on as well, so is it a wash rinse repeat sort of thing if need be? Should you rinse the piece off with water afterwards, or pat dry, or air dry?

kup
23rd February 2010, 08:31 AM
Thanks for the tute, Kup. :) You say to leave it in there for a few days, so what happens at night? Is it worth removing the pieces from the jar, drying them off then putting them back in the next day or just leave it all in there until tender and juicy?

You can try putting the jar under a fluorescent light or simply leave it there until the sun comes out the next day. You don't have to remove the pieces until the whole process is done.


I have a few pieces I would like to try this on as well, so is it a wash rinse repeat sort of thing if need be? Should you rinse the piece off with water afterwards, or pat dry, or air dry?

I just take them away from sunlight and let them dry by themselves.

kup
23rd February 2010, 08:54 AM
Thank you for that bit of information. Just wanted to know I was planning on doing my G1 Jetfire a figure I have had since I was a child and was curious to know how bad would the chemical react with the red paint and the other material and colors on jetfire?

I think somebody tried it on a Jetfire but I can't find the thread.

Here is the original thread but several linked photos have now gone broken:

http://www.otca.com.au/boards/showthread.php?t=2998&highlight=peroxide

Edit: The Jetfire pics are actually in the pioneering article here:

http://www.thetf.net/forum_posts-TID-13204-PN-1.htm

It seems that its paint is unaffected.

liegeprime
24th February 2010, 12:32 PM
Wasnt it the damned who tried it on jetfire? Cant be certain but I think it was him... from what I can recall no probs with the red, but then I dont recall how long he kept it in the bath.

Youll need to have about 3-4 days of strong sunlight otherwise its gonna take a while before the yellowing really goes. Some of the TFs Ive done this still has yellowing on some parts coz Im too squeamish to take them apart and I dont have a big enough jar.... so fr theyve kept their whiteness level.

primatives
24th February 2010, 03:29 PM
Just a note i did this to my Blurr and i put it outside pretty much during the hottest day during summer for a few days and when it dried it lightened the plastic from dark blue to a sky blue. Don't know if it was because i put it outside or not or because i kept opening it to see if it has worked yet but id keep it near the window sill and let it do its job slowly unlike my self who was really impatient and wanted it straight away.

kgb2005
24th February 2010, 11:51 PM
Just curious to know, how would one remove the stickers all off them include those ones that you rub as well (to get the autobot symbol or decepticon symbol to show) removed from the figure so that you can whiten the figure with the chemical. It's just I don't want to have a ruined rub sticker as I love those stickers and well if i can get a new one to replace it that's awesome! But if you know of any way please do tell.

kup
25th February 2010, 12:02 AM
Just curious to know, how would one remove the stickers all off them include those ones that you rub as well (to get the autobot symbol or decepticon symbol to show) removed from the figure so that you can whiten the figure with the chemical. It's just I don't want to have a ruined rub sticker as I love those stickers and well if i can get a new one to replace it that's awesome! But if you know of any way please do tell.

Reprolabels sells functional replacement rubsigns:

http://reprolabels.com/Symbols/rsaut.php

Sometimes you can remove the rubsign successfully without ruining it but like jgon mentioned, if the glue has cured too much there is nothing you can do.

kgb2005
25th February 2010, 12:11 AM
Thankyou for that bit of information guys.

bruticus
25th February 2010, 03:48 PM
those repro rubsigns are crap. i've got some at home.

you're better off jacking a rubsign from the TF classics figures. they are also much easier to lift from the figure wihtout damage cos like what jgon said, the glue hasnt had enough time to "cure" on the classics figures.

kup
5th March 2010, 05:41 PM
Here is a summary of my attempt at fixing my recently acquired yellowed Vroom.

The condition that I received Vroom. The white parts were yellowed throughout with bits of discoloration on his arms:

http://kupscigar.com/2010/040310.JPG

I placed him in a Hyrdrogen Peroxide filled glass jar and left him for a whole night and a full day. I removed his legs so that he would fit in the jar (the only part of Vroom that can be safely disassembled).

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/vroomjar.JPG

When I got home in the evening this is the result:

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/vroomwhite.JPG

He has regained 90% of his original color but still has a bit to go on the right side of his chest. The results are better than I expected despite the cloudy day. I will keep him in the jar until tomorrow so that he can whiten throughout but as you can see, it is already a considerable improvement.

There was also no damage to his paint whatsoever.

heroic_decepticon
5th March 2010, 06:18 PM
gosh, that's almost a beauty now!

Just a bit more on the right and it'll look great.

Soundwarp
6th March 2010, 06:58 AM
OMG that worked perfectly

Jetfire
6th March 2010, 11:34 AM
I wonder if putting a neat small blob of putty like blu-tack over the rub sign would help seal it from the effects of HP. But I have no idea how HP would react to blu-tack. Just an idea.

kup
6th March 2010, 11:47 AM
I wonder if putting a neat small blob of putty like blu-tack over the rub sign would help seal it from the effects of HP. But I have no idea how HP would react to blu-tack. Just an idea.

In my experience, bluetak discolors plastic when in contact with it for a long period of time. However I have no idea what the effect of it with Hydrogen Peroxide would be.

Jetfire
6th March 2010, 12:33 PM
Well I guess the idea would be to not have the blu-tack covering any plastic, just a square shaped blob the size of a rub-sign as a base.

How blue-tak effects the rub-sign, I wouldn't think it would do much but it would probably be a lot better than having it immerse in HP.

kup
6th March 2010, 12:55 PM
Final result on Vroom. I must say that all of the yellow on his chest and head is gone! I am thrilled by the results!

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/Vroomfinal.JPG

Right now I have the back of his lower legs on H2O2 mainly out of being pedantic since the only yellowed area are the tiny side fins. I will assemble him together later tonight or tomorrow if they need a bit of time.

In the mean time I will let the shell dry and then peel of the worn stickers as they look horrible.

heroic_decepticon
7th March 2010, 09:43 AM
it's looking really good. Can't wait to see the final result!

kup
7th March 2010, 08:38 PM
Final pic with Vroom assembled and some paint chips touched up:

http://kupscigar.com/collection/vrooma1.JPG

A bit of bad lighting but I will try to take a better pic under natural light.

The rest of the gallery can be found here:

http://www.otca.com.au/boards/showthread.php?p=154763#post154763

heroic_decepticon
7th March 2010, 11:41 PM
nice nice! How did you touch up the scratched up gold parts?

TheHandsomeCrab
8th March 2010, 09:24 AM
Couple of things I've found in my experiments with H2O2:

Blue, red and purple plastics (maybe others) tend to bleach if left in too long - an hour or two in a jar of 35% strength in the sun is plenty.

35% H2O2 doesn't seem to damage stickers, bizarrely. I've chucked a few G1 figures in the good stuff for several hours and found it's had little to no affect on the decals, when I was expecting them to turn to mush.

kup
8th March 2010, 07:45 PM
nice nice! How did you touch up the scratched up gold parts?

I have a gold 'Gundam Marker' paint men that matches it close enough.

kup
8th March 2010, 07:48 PM
Couple of things I've found in my experiments with H2O2:

Blue, red and purple plastics (maybe others) tend to bleach if left in too long - an hour or two in a jar of 35% strength in the sun is plenty.

35% H2O2 doesn't seem to damage stickers, bizarrely. I've chucked a few G1 figures in the good stuff for several hours and found it's had little to no affect on the decals, when I was expecting them to turn to mush.

I have seen this recently on a blue toy but it doesn't seem apply to all plastic of that color. My severely discolored Dogfight managed to regain its blue very nicely but my yellowed Aimless didn't fare as well.

Aimless ended up with a washed out blue which is arguably better than the 'yellowed' color but still looks off. What I found interesting was that the back of him which was unaffected by yellowing maintained its natural blue despite being submerged in the H2O2.

Oilspill
18th April 2010, 03:59 PM
Just curious, can you keep the jar of hydrogen peroxide and reuse it over and over?

kup
18th April 2010, 05:42 PM
Just curious, can you keep the jar of hydrogen peroxide and reuse it over and over?

Yes you can. Just make sure the lid is sealed so that it doesn't evaporate out.

bruticus
18th April 2010, 06:23 PM
just wanted to confirm what kup has said and that you CAN reuse the peroxide multiple times.

It also works on coloured plastics too.

sunlight is not always constant over here atm so im currently using a UV lamp indoors. im also using a motorised jewellery display turntable to allow even exposure to the UV.

the results have been pretty good so far. :D

however, i've got a question for those who say that they've used 35% concentration. do you mean 35 vol and not 35%?

how are you guys obtaining this? the max i can buy is 6% / 20vol?

kup
18th April 2010, 06:41 PM
how are you guys obtaining this? the max i can buy is 6% / 20vol?

I have never found more than that amount. I would also be interested in a higher concentration.

bruticus
18th April 2010, 07:16 PM
perhaps TheHandsomeCrab can enlighten us where he gets his 35% ??

i certainly look forward to the prospects of using it for only a few hours rather than a few days...

MV75
12th May 2010, 10:56 AM
You guys can kiss my, err, praise me HEAPS for bringing this info here right now;

Oh you're going to love this.

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/?responseToken=95a06ccbbda8c9a6322046f63185feb5


Plus it explains how and why this works.

RokDog
12th May 2010, 11:15 AM
Damn, nice find there! Now to track down Xanthan Gum and an elcheapo blender...

bruticus
13th May 2010, 11:32 AM
You guys can kiss my, err, praise me HEAPS for bringing this info here right now;

Oh you're going to love this.

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/?responseToken=95a06ccbbda8c9a6322046f63185feb5


Plus it explains how and why this works.
yeah, i was talking to Kup about retr0bright a while back...
sounds promising if you can make the gel form and only apply to areas where you need it. saves from unwanted bleaching/whitening of adjacent sections that dont need it.

however, with "Figure 3. Lorne’s Osborne 1 experiment", is it me or did they compare 2 completely different machines (refer exhaust unit)?? looks a bit suss to me but meh... peroxide + UV works.

MV75
13th May 2010, 02:18 PM
yeah, i was talking to Kup about retr0bright a while back...
sounds promising if you can make the gel form and only apply to areas where you need it. saves from unwanted bleaching/whitening of adjacent sections that dont need it.

however, with "Figure 3. Lorne’s Osborne 1 experiment", is it me or did they compare 2 completely different machines (refer exhaust unit)?? looks a bit suss to me but meh... peroxide + UV works.

I like that, plus you don't need to "bath" the parts.

1AZRAEL1
13th May 2010, 06:17 PM
Funny, I remember mentioning this a long while back. Haven't actually tried it myself yet.

Eruntalon
14th May 2010, 08:43 PM
I just tried this today on the arms and legs of a Lady Giga Power Master from Overlord I recently acquired which I was lead to believe from an eBay image was whiter than it actually was. Results soon.

Oilspill
15th May 2010, 12:34 AM
I've had a go with some 6% Hydrogen Peroxide recently and had some nice results on a few small parts and a QuickMix who I completely disassembled. It's not all roses though, as I threw Strafe in whole, as he just needed a little lightening.

It definitely does affect the screws negatively, so I recommend taking the time to disassemble your figures if you're going to do this, but the worst thing for Strafe was that the paint on his face was ruined. He is meant to have a red visor and face (see here (http://www.tfu.info/1987/Autobot/Strafe/strafe.htm)) but as you can see in the attached image, his red face was bleached into a browny, bone kind of colour. Sorry for the crappy image, but my camera isn't charged so just used the old iPhone.

It's not the end of the world, since I'll just go over it with red paint at some point, but be warned if you are peroxiding figures with red paint on them.


http://www.otca.com.au/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=1761&stc=1&d=1273850559

kup
16th May 2010, 11:28 AM
I've had a go with some 6% Hydrogen Peroxide recently and had some nice results on a few small parts and a QuickMix who I completely disassembled. It's not all roses though, as I threw Strafe in whole, as he just needed a little lightening.

It definitely does affect the screws negatively, so I recommend taking the time to disassemble your figures if you're going to do this, but the worst thing for Strafe was that the paint on his face was ruined. He is meant to have a red visor and face (see here (http://www.tfu.info/1987/Autobot/Strafe/strafe.htm)) but as you can see in the attached image, his red face was bleached into a browny, bone kind of colour. Sorry for the crappy image, but my camera isn't charged so just used the old iPhone.

It's not the end of the world, since I'll just go over it with red paint at some point, but be warned if you are peroxiding figures with red paint on them.



The paint wear seems to be random, possibly depending on the plastic and paint type. The people who have done Jetfires had no problem with paint wear.

Good to know as it's a nice warning for anyone wanting to do a Strafe.

Eruntalon
16th May 2010, 03:45 PM
Lady Giga:

This is the image the seller provided in their listing on ebay Hungary:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1019/4610497835_c39f057aac_o.jpg
I'm still considering whether to leave neutral feedback because they have not provided a reasonable explanation as to why they provide incorrect coloured images on their auctions.

This the is the actual colour of the plastic after disassembling:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1051/4610498031_549770ab6e_o.jpg

In jar of hydrogen peroxide for an entire day, but was very cloudy:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1305/4611107072_bc102ac51d_o.jpg

Around mid-day the next day after a very sunny morning:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1202/4611107316_b92b3ebde9_o.jpg

Reassembled:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1410/4610498531_3c4dec7eea_o.jpg

The plastic has gone from being approximately 30% yellow stained to 5% yellow stained after nearly two days exposure to the chemicals.

heroic_decepticon
20th May 2010, 12:39 AM
That looks amazing!

kup
21st May 2010, 11:45 AM
My Giga also had a bit of yellowing on the legs and it got cleared up in one day with the H2O2.

Right now I have Scourge wings submerged. They are not totally yellowed but had yellow 'spots' on them. The right side of the wings cleared nicely and now I am doing the left. I also have another severely yellowed Scourge which I will give it ago once I am finished off with this one.

bruticus
30th May 2010, 08:35 PM
Before:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4651911737_0eca8414a1.jpg
After:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4651912789_e8c5c6105f.jpg

Before:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4652530592_6a815ffdc9.jpg
After:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4652531764_a137762df4.jpg (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4652531764_a137762df4.jpg)


fark yeah! I no longer have to be paranoid about my rare TF's getting yellowed! :D. so yeah, Grand and Fort maximus,...im looking at you!!
Prevention is better than cure, but at least a cure is available should the worst happen.

now, if only we can come up with a sure-fire method for reversing the damage on coloured plastics because not all of the coloured plastics respond well to H2O2.

some coloured plastics repair fine, whilst others fade!!! :(

heroic_decepticon
30th May 2010, 08:52 PM
Wow, all these results are really positive. I haven't had occasion to try it yet, but I'll be sure to rest easy knowing yellowing now has a cure.

kup
30th May 2010, 09:22 PM
Bruticus, that is freaking awesome!

Was that done with the 30% H2O2?

I am currently trying 6% on spare Scourges which were severely yellowed. They are clearing a noticeably well after 4 days but still have a long way to go.

bruticus
30th May 2010, 10:02 PM
Bruticus, that is freaking awesome!

Was that done with the 30% H2O2?

I am currently trying 6% on spare Scourges which were severely yellowed. They are clearing a noticeably well after 4 days but still have a long way to go.
My results are based on 35% H2O2 and after ~9-12 hrs indoors with a UV lamp.
However, theHandsomeCrab has said earlier that he only needed to use it for a couple of hours to work, so even faster results are possible with the high strength H2O2!

btw, are your scourges the ones with a light blue plastic on the top with a dark blue sticker or the ones with a factory standard dark blue plastic top and no sticker required??
i'm interested to know if the dark blue plastic version fades or not.

I'm also curious to know if the bubbles that are normally formed, inside the glass jar, are a resultant of a chemical process and indicates that the H2O2 is breaking down? If this is the case, then there is a chance that the H2O2 will lose its strength with multiple use. I dont know for sure, just speculating at the moment.

Maybe someone here will know.

Eruntalon
30th May 2010, 10:21 PM
Bruticus, how are you obtaining your 30% concentration H202 if you don't mind me asking? Do you have connections with a laboratory?


On another note, I'm also going to be posting up my 'Operation Restore Fortress Maximus with H202' in this thread soon.

kup
30th May 2010, 11:55 PM
My results are based on 35% H2O2 and after ~9-12 hrs indoors with a UV lamp.
However, theHandsomeCrab has said earlier that he only needed to use it for a couple of hours to work, so even faster results are possible with the high strength H2O2!

btw, are your scourges the ones with a light blue plastic on the top with a dark blue sticker or the ones with a factory standard dark blue plastic top and no sticker required??
i'm interested to know if the dark blue plastic version fades or not.

I'm also curious to know if the bubbles that are normally formed, inside the glass jar, are a resultant of a chemical process and indicates that the H2O2 is breaking down? If this is the case, then there is a chance that the H2O2 will lose its strength with multiple use. I dont know for sure, just speculating at the moment.

Maybe someone here will know.

I tried putting in a lightly 'greened' Scourge head canon which had its colored restored to blue pretty well. There was no fading.

The spare Scourges that I am restoring are all sticker blue tops. Two are Targetmasters and one is '86.

In regards to the Bubbles, from observation it seems that they are indeed responsible for restoring the plastic color. It forms several hundreds perhaps thousands of tiny bubbles all over the surface of the part. I have also noticed that although you can reuse the H2O2 multiple times, it eventually looses its effect and you can notice that by a lack of bubbles. I believe this is when the H2O2 has simply become plain H2O. It is possible that this happens because some of the O2 escapes from the jar as vapor when bubbling.

bruticus
31st May 2010, 01:09 AM
Bruticus, how are you obtaining your 30% concentration H202 if you don't mind me asking? Do you have connections with a laboratory?


TheHandsomeCrab helped me with finding this. He and I both bought from a seller on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FOOD-GRADE-Hydrogen-Peroxide-35-H2O2-500ml-/140332006812?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_HealthBeauty_Other_RL&hash=item20ac707d9c

It works out to be cheaper per volume, per percentage concentration than buying from your local pharmacy. but Max of 1L per shipment though.

Just remember to wear rubber gloves and goggles when handling!!
when i was opening the parcel for the first time, i didnt realise that the seal on the bottle was leaking a bit and accidentally got some on my fingers.... it turned my skin white for a while and was freaken itchy, which freaked me out... luckily the reaction was only temporary and everything was good afterwards.



On another note, I'm also going to be posting up my 'Operation Restore Fortress Maximus with H202' in this thread soon.

Oooh. cant wait to see.
Btw, will you be using the bath technique or the gel technique??
cos bathing it will required several litres of H2O2. Unless you plan on diluting the concentrated stuff, it might end up pretty costly.

kup
31st May 2010, 01:14 AM
So there is no problems with importing the H2O2 from overseas? It seems like something that would annoy customs.

bruticus
31st May 2010, 01:30 AM
So there is no problems with importing the H2O2 from overseas? It seems like something that would annoy customs.
No problems with importing into australia.
If you read his Q&A section, many people have asked the seller this, including myself.

1AZRAEL1
31st May 2010, 02:32 PM
I believe this is when the H2O2 has simply become plain H2O. It is possible that this happens because some of the O2 escapes from the jar as vapor when bubbling.

So it should be fine to drink once there are no bubbles appearing? :p :D

But seriously, I have got to try some of this stuff on some of my figures, but when I have money to do so. I have a severly yellowed junker Slugslinger, and want to see the effects on his paint, escpecially on his face.

kup
31st May 2010, 08:33 PM
So it should be fine to drink once there are no bubbles appearing? :p :D

But seriously, I have got to try some of this stuff on some of my figures, but when I have money to do so. I have a severly yellowed junker Slugslinger, and want to see the effects on his paint, escpecially on his face.

Careful with the Targetmasters (the actual guns) - We have encountered a couple of problems in which the '87 blue discolors. I am not sure about the main toys.

1AZRAEL1
1st June 2010, 08:13 AM
Careful with the Targetmasters (the actual guns) - We have encountered a couple of problems in which the '87 blue discolors. I am not sure about the main toys.

Yea I don't have any guns, so that's cool. This junker is pretty beaten up, so he is really just a test subject.

Eruntalon
1st June 2010, 03:39 PM
I bought some 35% H202 from the UK (thanks Bruticus and TheHandsomeCrab) and I am just waiting for it to arrive.

kup
1st June 2010, 06:57 PM
Here is a comparative shot of the color restoration of the Scourge I am currently working on. It shows just how much of the 'yellow' clears up after a part is soaked on H2O2 for about 4 days. It's not perfect but it's one heck of an improvement.

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/h2o2.JPG

(The stringy plastic thing is something that just fell on it. I didn't realize until after I took the photo)

bruticus
1st June 2010, 07:40 PM
nice results kup!!!
but damn man... 4 days and thats not even 1 quarter of the figure yet!!!
i thought you had a larger glass jar?

but its really great to see old toys get a second lease on life!!!

kup
1st June 2010, 08:05 PM
I do have a larger glass jar but not enough H2O2 :)

bruticus
1st June 2010, 08:54 PM
i'd love to see someone try and whiten this Fort max (http://cgi.ebay.com/Transformers-G1-Headmaster-FORTRESS-MAXIMUS-Fort-Max-HM-/320541220832?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa1bedfe0) or an even worse condition one!!! :p

eruntalon, is your fort max as bad as that??

liegeprime
1st June 2010, 10:23 PM
wasnt kups like that before?

kup
1st June 2010, 10:24 PM
wasnt kups like that before?

It was bad but not that bad.

However I wouldn't mind to take up the challenge but at $500 its not worth it. My Max was in better condition and cheaper..then again that one has the sword...

Eruntalon
1st June 2010, 11:59 PM
i'd love to see someone try and whiten this Fort max (http://cgi.ebay.com/Transformers-G1-Headmaster-FORTRESS-MAXIMUS-Fort-Max-HM-/320541220832?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa1bedfe0) or an even worse condition one!!! :p

eruntalon, is your fort max as bad as that??

Mines not that bad, plus I just have the body and I'm missing most parts. Also the front of the one in the image is nearly as bad as my one's back; so vice-versa except on opposite sides.

1AZRAEL1
2nd June 2010, 08:05 AM
I love how it says, "with signs of yellowing" :p

liegeprime
2nd June 2010, 09:39 AM
I love how it says, "with signs of yellowing" :p

yeah , if that's just a sign, I wonder what he considers full on yellowing - banana anyone?

1AZRAEL1
2nd June 2010, 10:11 AM
yeah , if that's just a sign, I wonder what he considers full on yellowing - banana anyone?

Haha yea, I mean come on, the ramp is that yellowed on the corner, it almost looks burnt :p

kup
2nd June 2010, 11:30 AM
Haha yea, I mean come on, the ramp is that yellowed on the corner, it almost looks burnt :p

Maybe its the camera flash but that toy is 'yellowed' in a way I have never seen before - I am not sure if the problem is just due to standard yellowing as I have never seen an oranged Max before.

Typically the white just turns into a mustard color at maximum yellowing like the Scourge I photographed.

bruticus
2nd June 2010, 01:45 PM
Maybe its the camera flash but that toy is 'yellowed' in a way I have never seen before - I am not sure if the problem is just due to standard yellowing as I have never seen an oranged Max before.

Typically the white just turns into a mustard color at maximum yellowing like the Scourge I photographed.

Kup, do you suspect something else is happening other than sunlight damage??
The damage on the FM looks like it occurred over a very long time.

This yellowed ratchet (http://i32.tinypic.com/2uiymmu.jpg) from thetf.net (http://www.thetf.net/forum_posts-TID-13204-PN-1.htm) that you linked us, is almost as bad as that fort max on ebay (http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/sunlink/eBay/Max/fortmax1c.jpg).

I've also seen the grey plastics on a dinobot turned dark/dirty yellow, whilst the clear plastic turned dark orange (almost red) in colour. However, since i'm not the original owner, i cant say for sure if it was caused by only sunlight damage or another source.

thankfully these days, no one here is that neglectful to let our prized TFs yellow to a stage where it is too hard to reverse the damages.

kup
2nd June 2010, 03:33 PM
To me that Ratchet's yellowing is different than the Max. That Ratchet has a similar form of yellowing as my Scourge, a mustard color while that Max looks a weird 'earth' orange color.

Clear plastic does turn orangy but not white plastic. White plastic turns yellow not orange red unless that Max is at a very severe rarely seen point of deterioration or its just the photo.

Grey plastic does indeed turn a dirty/green color but white discoloration is a pretty standard mustard yellow.

1orion2many
4th June 2010, 09:37 AM
Before:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4651911737_0eca8414a1.jpg
After:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4651912789_e8c5c6105f.jpg

Before:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4652530592_6a815ffdc9.jpg
After:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4652531764_a137762df4.jpg (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4652531764_a137762df4.jpg)


fark yeah! I no longer have to be paranoid about my rare TF's getting yellowed! :D. so yeah, Grand and Fort maximus,...im looking at you!!
Prevention is better than cure, but at least a cure is available should the worst happen.

now, if only we can come up with a sure-fire method for reversing the damage on coloured plastics because not all of the coloured plastics respond well to H2O2.

some coloured plastics repair fine, whilst others fade!!! :(

Yes I discovered the fading part first hand on the Head of Metrotitan:eek::(. I have 2 options, I can paint the head or I can dye it. I'm just worried I might buckle the head if the water temp is to hot.

kup
5th June 2010, 04:06 PM
Yes I discovered the fading part first hand on the Head of Metrotitan:eek::(. I have 2 options, I can paint the head or I can dye it. I'm just worried I might buckle the head if the water temp is to hot.

We should probably do a list on toys we have encountered that don't respond too well to the H2O2. It will help anyone thinking of trying out the H2O2 on a toy and also to help us determine if there is a solid pattern.

- Aimless (Misfire's TM)
- Metrotitan head

Anything else?

Oilspill
5th June 2010, 04:08 PM
We should probably do a list on toys we have encountered that don't respond too well to the H2O2. It will help anyone thinking of trying out the H2O2 on a toy and also to help us determine if there is a solid pattern.

- Aimless (Misfire's TM)
- Metrotitan head

Anything else?

Red paint on Strafe's head.

Did I remember someone saying that Dogfight's blue faded? Can't recall.

kup
5th June 2010, 05:15 PM
Red paint on Strafe's head.

Did I remember someone saying that Dogfight's blue faded? Can't recall.

That was me but it didn't fade. My Dogfight's blue was restored superbly well but within a couple of weeks it yellowed again.

I think that is more to do with the plastic's inherent tendency to yellow than anything the H2O2 did.

Eruntalon
1st July 2010, 09:24 PM
Does anyone know what sort of UV light I should be getting to simulate actual sunlight? I'm trying to search through the myriad of useless junk on ebay from Hong Kong to find something that will do the job. Will a standard UV blacklight globe even do the job?

bruticus
2nd July 2010, 10:38 AM
I bought a UV lightbulb from bunnings and it worked for me.

Eruntalon
9th July 2010, 12:16 AM
I bought a UV lightbulb from bunnings and it worked for me.

Was it a specific brand? I went into Bunnings last night and I didn't know what I was looking for. I couldn't find anything specifically labeled 'UV light globe'.

bruticus
9th July 2010, 05:56 PM
Was it a specific brand? I went into Bunnings last night and I didn't know what I was looking for. I couldn't find anything specifically labeled 'UV light globe'.

sorry, it may have been labelled "blacklight". dont know for sure as i threw away the package.

but mine looks a bit like this:
http://www.halloweenblacklight.com/black-light-bulb-2.jpg

should be in the light bulb section of bunnings. how big is your bunnings? cos it could just be that some of the smaller stores may not have it in stock.
but if you want to buy from somewhere else, then i cant see why not as you probably just need an ordinary blacklight/UV light source.

Just a couple of tips i used when working with the UV bulb (*FYI: these are just my opinions and by no means are they the correct way to do things):
--since i dont know what the long term effects of exposure to the artificial UV light can do, i try to limit direct contact with UV light to as minimum as possible, until someone can prove otherwise. (better safe than sorry)
--wear UV protective glasses (sunnies).
--shield off as much stray UV rays as possible just in case parts of your house get damaged (walls, doors, appliances etc).
--i use a motorised display turntable to rotate the glass bowl regularly for even UV exposure on the sides of the jar/bowl
--for the plastic parts that always floats facing the bottom of the glass jar/bowl due to buoyancy, they are hard to expose with the UV, so i ended up using two spare shelves in my detolf cabinet. put the UV light on the lower level shelf aiming it up and put the jar/bowl on the top shelf directly above it. that way the bottom of the jar/bowl now gets direct exposure.

Hopefully that should give you a few things to think about and you should be able experiment with different options to find a way that works best for you.

good luck with the fort max project!

Eruntalon
9th July 2010, 06:41 PM
sorry, it may have been labelled "blacklight". dont know for sure as i threw away the package.

but mine looks a bit like this:
http://www.halloweenblacklight.com/black-light-bulb-2.jpg

should be in the light bulb section of bunnings. how big is your bunnings? cos it could just be that some of the smaller stores may not have it in stock.
but if you want to buy from somewhere else, then i cant see why not as you probably just need an ordinary blacklight/UV light source.

Just a couple of tips i used when working with the UV bulb (*FYI: these are just my opinions and by no means are they the correct way to do things):
--since i dont know what the long term effects of exposure to the artificial UV light can do, i try to limit direct contact with UV light to as minimum as possible, until someone can prove otherwise. (better safe than sorry)
--wear UV protective glasses (sunnies).
--shield off as much stray UV rays as possible just in case parts of your house get damaged (walls, doors, appliances etc).
--i use a motorised display turntable to rotate the glass bowl regularly for even UV exposure on the sides of the jar/bowl
--for the plastic parts that always floats facing the bottom of the glass jar/bowl due to buoyancy, they are hard to expose with the UV, so i ended up using two spare shelves in my detolf cabinet. put the UV light on the lower level shelf aiming it up and put the jar/bowl on the top shelf directly above it. that way the bottom of the jar/bowl now gets direct exposure.

Hopefully that should give you a few things to think about and you should be able experiment with different options to find a way that works best for you.

good luck with the fort max project!

Thanks again. I'm having some trouble lately as there is hardly any sunlight.

kup
18th August 2010, 09:42 PM
Here is a comparative shot of the color restoration of the Scourge I am currently working on. It shows just how much of the 'yellow' clears up after a part is soaked on H2O2 for about 4 days. It's not perfect but it's one heck of an improvement.

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/h2o2.JPG

(The stringy plastic thing is something that just fell on it. I didn't realize until after I took the photo)

Here is an progression update on restoring this Scourge:

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/scourg2.JPG

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/scourge3.JPG

Eruntalon
18th August 2010, 10:05 PM
I've been having some major issues lately with Fortress Maximus. There is absolutely no sun where I live in Victoria and I have damaged a piece of Fort Max by leaving it in H202 for more than 2 weeks. A light gray part which fits onto the back has become bleached speckled white and I cannot reverse this.

kup
18th August 2010, 10:14 PM
I've been having some major issues lately with Fortress Maximus. There is absolutely no sun where I live in Victoria and I have damaged a piece of Fort Max by leaving it in H202 for more than 2 weeks. A light gray part which fits onto the back has become bleached speckled white and I cannot reverse this.

Please tell us exactly which part reacted badly to the H2O2 so that others who plan to restore their Fort Max can take note on it. Was it only that single part or did other grey areas also reacted bad to it?

Sorry to hear about your part but it is not beyond hope if you try what I did to restore your Max.

In regards to strong sunlight, it has also been a bit sketchy in Sydney when it comes to sunlight, this is why it has taken me so long to do that Scourge.

Eruntalon
20th August 2010, 12:14 AM
The part that reacted badly due to long time in H202 without any major sunlight as pictured:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4907748908_af2c04b065.jpg
On this first image you will see that the yellow has all gone and the gray has been restored to its proper colour but there are tiny white dots all over. The area that is very light gray is where the sticker used to be and it had never yellowed - instead it has bleached the gray to a white/gray.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4907749110_fee2dc49d9.jpg
The second image is worse in a way - the gray is bordering on being white and it is all blotchy. I have tried remedying this by using Brasso and rubbing it off (as is suggested on another forum) but this does nothing. I have also tried soaking the part in water, which seems to actually make the plastic return to its proper dark gray colour when submerged and wet. I am thinking that the plastic has become porous and is able to take on water but when dry it returns to its overly bleached-looking state.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4907158023_1d0fafe2aa.jpg
Again, more overly white specks on the gray.

I used 35% strength H202 on these parts. I do not recommend this strength with parts exposed for as long as these have been (2 weeks at least) with minimal sun. From now on I'm going to be using a weaker strength such as 12%.

bruticus
20th August 2010, 12:49 PM
35% for 2 weeks??
damn dude... that is complete overkill! especially for coloured plastics.
usually you take it out periodically, let it fully dry, have a look at it and then put it back if it needs more time.

are your white parts super bright now?

just out of curiosity but was the surface of the jar clean (i.e no sticky label residue to cast a shadow?) or was the surface of the plastic part clean?

with the damaged grey part, the pictures dont look that bad to me, however without a proper comparison with some 'before' pics and a non yellowed FM pics, then i cant really tell for sure.

does soaking the part in water permanently return the colour (i.e. still is a vibrant grey colour after it has been fully dried again over a few days) or is it only a temporary thing??

But, if you are really bothered by it then one suggestion (which i have not tried yet) would be continue to bleach it until it is as light as possible then try to dye that part or paint over it. But just make sure to test with scrap pieces first until you get method right. As some people have found that they melted the plastic from being overzealous.

1AZRAEL1
20th August 2010, 12:57 PM
Man that sux, hope it can be restored somehow. If I still had my sun damaged FM, I would give it a go as well. (There should be one for sale at the Parra fair)

Kup, would you be willing to take a couple of my damaged junkers to test them out? I want to do it, but just don't have the time to do it myself. Junker Slugslinger and Triggerhappy I have off the top of my head. I wonder how the painted faces will react to the acid.

kup
20th August 2010, 01:30 PM
I am afraid that you can't do much with Decepticon targetmasters as you can't pull them apart as they are held together by pins. Also the plastic which they are made of has proven not to react well to the H2O2 as far as the targetmasters themselves are concerned.

Edit: Sorry I accidentally clicked edit on your post when I tried to reply to it hence the 'edited by kup' line report at the bottom.

bruticus
20th August 2010, 03:49 PM
Junker Slugslinger and Triggerhappy I have off the top of my head.

how badly junker are they? if its just white parts yellowing then you can fix it. but if its the coloured parts that are yellowed then kup is right and there is little chance to repair it with H2O2 without causing fading.


I am afraid that you can't do much with Decepticon targetmasters as you can't pull them apart as they are held together by pins.

what sort of pins are these? im curious to know what makes them so difficult to disassemble. Cos unless it is glued or fused together, then you should be able to take it apart right? i mean if people at the factory can put it together then in theory you can take it apart...

1AZRAEL1
20th August 2010, 03:59 PM
Quite a few parts on them are damaged. I'd have to have another look at them to go into detail. I'll bring them to the Parra fair anyway just so we can have a look at them. I just want to use them as test subjects to see some of the effects. I bought them at a local trash and treasure market a long while back.

Edit:

Edit: Sorry I accidentally clicked edit on your post when I tried to reply to it hence the 'edited by kup' line report at the bottom.

Heh, I had noticed that and thought, what did I do wrong? :confused: :p

All good.

kup
20th August 2010, 04:56 PM
what sort of pins are these? im curious to know what makes them so difficult to disassemble. Cos unless it is glued or fused together, then you should be able to take it apart right? i mean if people at the factory can put it together then in theory you can take it apart...

I got home and checked it and I was mistaken. Got confused with an issue which is unique to my Slugslinger and mistakenly generalized it (old man memory :o). My Slugslinger has rusted screws with the heads worn off acting as immovable pins.

However my warning still stands, the plastic is of that glossy type which has shown bad reactions to H2O2 on other toys and the targetmasters have shown to have faded colors as a result. I am happy to try to clear up your junkers but there is a considerable risk of damage involved so you know.

1AZRAEL1
20th August 2010, 05:10 PM
They are pretty crappy junkers. Using the acid is by trial and error really, so I would rather test it on some bad ones rather than ones that are only slight. I have a good Slugslinger which I got at the last fair, the damaged one is just a spare junker. But if someone wants him for parts is fine :D

I'll bring him along anyway.

Eruntalon
20th August 2010, 05:25 PM
are your white parts super bright now?...

...just out of curiosity but was the surface of the jar clean (i.e no sticky label residue to cast a shadow?) or was the surface of the plastic part clean?...

...does soaking the part in water permanently return the colour (i.e. still is a vibrant grey colour after it has been fully dried again over a few days) or is it only a temporary thing?...

Yes they are pretty good but not great as I haven't had good sun for aaaaages. Also I've noticed that ultra yellow parts on white plastic is a slightly darker shade than the rest of the white and I cannot get it to bleach back 100%.

The jar was clean as can be.

Soaking in water is only a temporary solution as once the parts dry again it goes back to its overly bleached state again.


Man that sux, hope it can be restored somehow. If I still had my sun damaged FM, I would give it a go as well. (There should be one for sale at the Parra fair)

If anyone knows about any local junker Fortress Maximus's or if anyone spots one and is willing to purchase one for the sake of splitting it up then I will gladly purchase these gray parts off of you that I need.

kup
14th September 2010, 06:26 PM
I have 1Azrael1's yellowed '87 Targetmaster toys which I will attempt to clear up with H2O2.

Slugslinger will be the first and as you can see, he is very yellowed. I will try the twin cockpit first and the rest of the body can serve as a control so that we can check the level of improvement.

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow.JPG

This test will likely take a few weeks or more as I use a very low concentration of H2O2 but I will post every couple of weeks to check on improvement.

1AZRAEL1
14th September 2010, 08:24 PM
Heh that is really bad ay.

Well, I look forward to see what happens to it, may take quite some time to change anything.

dirge
14th September 2010, 09:22 PM
I hope the H2O2 can fix that leg, Azrael! (:

liegeprime
14th September 2010, 11:58 PM
I hope the H2O2 can fix that leg, Azrael! (:

Halleluiah I can walk again!! its a miracle H2O2!!:D:D

kup
19th September 2010, 11:01 AM
Improvement so far. It was much quicker than I thought which is unusual:

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow2.JPG

There is still a long way to go and although I am confident that the plastic will clear up to something very close to it's original color, the danger of surface defects is still a possibility. This is due to some '87 toys that have proven not to take the H2O2 too well.

On another note, I think that I have been given something stronger than the usual 6% concentration of H2O2. I touched the part while it was yet to fully dry and this is what happened to my fingers:

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow3.JPG

I have touched the H2O2 before with nothing happening but this is the first time I have seen a skin reaction. Apparently this is the result of a localized embolism caused on the surface of the skin by the H2O2, it eventually clears up but it sure freaked me out.

1AZRAEL1
19th September 2010, 11:12 AM
Wow, that's quite an improvement. And I too would be scared if my skin reacted like that, but at least it doesn't seem to be a lasting effect. For a moment, I thought it was something coming off the plastic itself before I read the comment :p

And might have worked quicker because we have had some really sunny days recently, at least out my way. Quite warm as well.

Eruntalon
19th September 2010, 05:46 PM
...And might have worked quicker because we have had some really sunny days recently, at least out my way. Quite warm as well.

Yeah. Bring on the Sun! I have a whole stack of 12% concentrated H202 ready and waiting for the remainder of Fort Max.

liegeprime
19th September 2010, 10:31 PM
You need not worry about that whitening in your skin kup. that is normal with H2O2. I was exposed to this fact when I was younger coz my mom used it like an antiseptic for cleaning my wounds. You know when your a kid you tend to bruise around a lot from being so darn hyper:D:p. So even though it stings a lot (on wounds) I got used to it. The formulation nowadays are quite lesser in concentration and also , around the time I was in HS the medical practitioners moved away from using H2O2 as a wound cleanser ( it shouldnt be used on open wounds) and advocated using Betadine instead which later got canned for op use only and use only Normal saline for open wounds.... now in my working years they've moved away from betadine ( still used in Operations though) and onto Chlorhexidine ( NOT for open wounds) as the antiseptic of choice.... okay back to the topic again....

heroic_decepticon
20th September 2010, 12:29 AM
I spent almost 10 months looking for a Galaxy Shuttle for my wife. I finally found one, in solid C9.5 box, complete inserts and at a very good price, but, it was not exactly white. It was not yellowed, but then its not white either. It's slightly brownish, like the Japanese seller dropped it in mud and left it there for a few weeks kind of brown.

While I wanted to just get another Galaxy Shuttle (if I could find one), my wife was keen to work on the one we had, sort of like our little project. We spent awhile taking it apart and preparing to soak it in H2O2 (of course, I had lots of fun using my favourite Zippo lighter fluid to remove all the stickers first).

My wife was responsible for disassembling all the difficult parts like the pins that join the arms to the body and the pin that joined the cockpit with the body. I have no idea how she managed to remove those pins. :eek:

This is my wife's record of what goes where:
http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/46580/2665412680100811158S600x600Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2665412680100811158NWzxql)

This is the soaking jar:
http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/41794/2538563070100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2538563070100811158WOGjjs)

Photos on Left = parts before soaking.
Photos on Right = parts after soaking for 3 days in 3% H2O2 under very mild sun; and 2 days in 3% H2O2 under intense sun (I placed the jar in my office which is next to Circular Quay and so there is strong sun for most part of the day).

http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/45832/2090472700100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2090472700100811158IgjIBf) http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/44700/2929507190100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2929507190100811158gMtAuq)

Close up of roof. Can clearly see what the colour is originally supposed to be where the Autobot sticker shape is. As can be seen, the blue painted windows remained undamaged even after soaking.
http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/44845/2641010640100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2641010640100811158hwsPJO) http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/45556/2700716450100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2700716450100811158VcwrXc)

Close up of the upper legs. The piece on the right has been soaked for a day at 3% H2O2.
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/45164/2921407760100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2921407760100811158zJaIsL) http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/40501/2752070890100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2752070890100811158JYjMjd)

Before - After
http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/45630/2511762020100811158S600x600Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2511762020100811158BTGWAz) http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/46470/2676378240100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2676378240100811158OSmjiw)

The final product after reapplying stickers:
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/47504/2912851440100811158S600x600Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2912851440100811158fAduHV)

CAUTION: The H2O2 damaged the black paint on the cockpit and turned some of it greyish. However, now after 3 weeks, the paint has turned black again!!! (that is unless dirge helped my paint it back while he was reviewing it).

kup
20th September 2010, 12:41 AM
That is awesome!

I didn't realize that your Galaxy Shuttle was once semi yellowed. It looked in pretty good condition when you showed it to me at the fan meet.

That is interesting what you say about the Galaxy Shuttle black reverting back to normal.

Hursticon
20th September 2010, 12:46 AM
Wow! :eek:

I'm always impressed with seeing what you guys, and girls :D, manage to achieve with this H202 process as it really does seem to bring figures back to life.

I'm really interested to see the end results of what Kup is able to do with 1AZRAEL1's Slugslinger and Eruntalon with his Fort Max.

Eruntalon
20th September 2010, 01:04 AM
Wow! :eek:

I'm always impressed with seeing what you guys, and girls :D, manage to achieve with this H202 process as it really does seem to bring figures back to life.

I'm really interested to see the end results of what Kup is able to do with 1AZRAEL1's Slugslinger and Eruntalon with his Fort Max.

Just don't ever use straight H202 with a high concentration like 35% as I have found out.

dirge
20th September 2010, 05:54 AM
However, now after 3 weeks, the paint has turned black again!!! (that is unless dirge helped my paint it back while he was reviewing it).

No, but I'll take the credit anyway :D

Well done, HD & evil_autobot. Having seen this toy close up, it's as new!

heroic_decepticon
22nd September 2010, 10:42 AM
No, but I'll take the credit anyway :D

Well done, HD & evil_autobot. Having seen this toy close up, it's as new!

you know what? I checked again this morning the the nosecone has turned also completely back to black from when it was 50% gray due to the H2O2. This is very strange indeed.

liegeprime
24th September 2010, 08:18 AM
you know what? I checked again this morning the the nosecone has turned also completely back to black from when it was 50% gray due to the H2O2. This is very strange indeed.

hmmm does that mean pretty soon the white will turn back to dirty brown again:eek::eek::eek::eek:

kup
24th September 2010, 10:54 AM
My guess is that the paint absorbed the H2O2 under it's paint layer and as it evaporated slowly, it turned the paint back to black.

gamblor916
24th September 2010, 11:29 AM
I saw Galaxy Shuttle in the flesh and had no idea it had been cleaned, it looked almost brand new.
So HD you removed the stickers one by one and reapplied them as normal after cleaning? What kind of sorcery is this?

heroic_decepticon
24th September 2010, 08:03 PM
So HD you removed the stickers one by one and reapplied them as normal after cleaning? What kind of sorcery is this?

Yup. I removed all the stickers and then when its white, reapplied them. Merlin's magic potion removes stickers fast and easy and when dry allows stickers to re-attain their natural stickiness. (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-to-remove-price-tags-stickers-from.html)


hmmm does that mean pretty soon the white will turn back to dirty brown again:eek::eek::eek::eek:

Hmmm... I really don't know. Right now the entire nosecone area has returned to its original jet black lustre. The white is still looking pretty sharp.

These are pics from Wednesday (2 days ago).

http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/46934/2117821290100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2117821290100811158YLDmFP) http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/47949/2315587150100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2315587150100811158ukFrxh)

Close up of black nosecone area.
http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/44476/2266015800100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2266015800100811158PuBete)

gamblor916
24th September 2010, 08:18 PM
Great tips, I wish I'd known this earlier.

heroic_decepticon
24th September 2010, 09:14 PM
Great tips, I wish I'd known this earlier.

the magic juice can also loosen stiff joints... (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2010/05/dinoking-dilemma.html) :D

heroic_decepticon
26th September 2010, 09:02 AM
Whitening of all of Dai Atlas' white parts that are slightly yellowed have began. I've placed them in my trusty bottle of 3% H2O2 at my buddy's 50th floor apartment at World Tower. That high up (closer to the sky :D) and with the amount of sun it gets, I'm suspecting 1.5 to 2 days would do it.

"Before" pictures...

http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/24808/2451768430100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2451768430100811158xYSaKH) http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/23526/2793480030100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2793480030100811158QWSJKg)

http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/46933/2096569030100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2096569030100811158xRvkVA) http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/26829/2617361840100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2617361840100811158wHYWqX)

bruticus
26th September 2010, 01:48 PM
congrats on fixing up your galaxy shuttle HD!
Always great to see toys being revitalised to their former glory.



This is the soaking jar:
http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/41794/2538563070100811158S500x500Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2538563070100811158WOGjjs)

man that jar looks pretty big. how wide is it?

im actually very surprised that you can whiten all of the parts only after a few days in the sun with 3% H2O2. usually at that low concentration it would take me weeks and the overcrowding of the parts doesnt help either. that is why i swapped over to using a UV lamp and much higher concentration H2O2.

perhaps sydney's sunlight is more UV intense than perth? LOL :p

cant wait to see you whiten your other victory and masterforce TFs.
for some reason, the white plastic from those series appears to be more susceptible to yellowing...

kup
29th September 2010, 05:36 PM
The Slugslinger dual cockpit has finally finished restoring much of it's color. Unfortunately it is far from perfect.

The color isn't exactly like the original as it has a bleached sort of look. On top of that much of the surface has been damaged with odd powdery looking spots - This seems to be a common plastic surface reaction to the H2O2 with 1987 toys. Oddly enough, the unyellowed surface area under the plastic is unspoiled.

On the bright side, this will certainly display much better than a yellowed figure as you can see by the picture but it will still have a worn and damaged look on the surface of the plastic. Due to this, I would not classify the result as a fix.

Unfortunately the surface defects don't come out in photos but are very visible in person. I have also linked a high-res picture which shows a bit of the surface defects at the tip of the nosecones but it still not representative of the actual damage.

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow4x.JPG

High-Res photo:

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow4.JPG

Hursticon
29th September 2010, 07:52 PM
Regardless of the damage Kup, Wow! :eek: - That is a hell of an improvement!

1AZRAEL1
29th September 2010, 07:55 PM
Still an improvement though. Bring it along to the meet on Saturday, would be good to see it in person.

heroic_decepticon
29th September 2010, 08:46 PM
definitely an improvement! Is it closer to white now than grey?

Eruntalon
29th September 2010, 11:11 PM
The Slugslinger dual cockpit has finally finished restoring much of it's color. Unfortunately it is far from perfect.

The color isn't exactly like the original as it has a bleached sort of look. On top of that much of the surface has been damaged with odd powdery looking spots - This seems to be a common plastic surface reaction to the H2O2 with 1987 toys. Oddly enough, the unyellowed surface area under the plastic is unspoiled.

On the bright side, this will certainly display much better than a yellowed figure as you can see by the picture but it will still have a worn and damaged look on the surface of the plastic. Due to this, I would not classify the result as a fix.

Unfortunately the surface defects don't come out in photos but are very visible in person. I have also linked a high-res picture which shows a bit of the surface defects at the tip of the nosecones but it still not representative of the actual damage.

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow4x.JPG

High-Res photo:

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow4.JPG

This is exactly what has happened to a part of my Fort Max.

Skullcruncher
9th October 2010, 01:58 PM
Here is an progression update on restoring this Scourge:

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/scourge3.JPG


Hi Kup, did you have to take all the screws out to remove his large 'wings' for treatment?

I have just started on a green scourge today treating one of the leg guard parts, hes not as green as yours but still green! :D

Thanks

Soundwarp
9th October 2010, 02:19 PM
O M G !

That pic above is amazing!

Oilspill
9th October 2010, 03:18 PM
Those Scourge & Slugslinger progress pics are way cool.

Question for you guys and gals though. I just got myself a Triggerhappy, he was pristine looking in the ebay auction, but the guy left him near the window while the auction was underway and now he is a bit yellowed on the gray parts. Major bummer dude.

Unfortunately the grey parts on THappy are
A) connected via a number of pins, which will be hard to remove
B) Have the bronze paint applications on the thrusters, which I doubt will fair well if I immerse the parts in H2O2.

So, has anyone got ideas? I think I remember reading that the guys who came up with this also tried making a paste form of H2O2. Has anyone tried this?

kup
9th October 2010, 07:23 PM
Hi Kup, did you have to take all the screws out to remove his large 'wings' for treatment?

I have just started on a green scourge today treating one of the leg guard parts, hes not as green as yours but still green! :D

Thanks

I completely removed all screws and removed each 'wing' and leg piece individually.

Good luck with your Scourge.

kup
9th October 2010, 07:28 PM
Those Scourge & Slugslinger progress pics are way cool.

Question for you guys and gals though. I just got myself a Triggerhappy, he was pristine looking in the ebay auction, but the guy left him near the window while the auction was underway and now he is a bit yellowed on the gray parts. Major bummer dude.

Unfortunately the grey parts on THappy are
A) connected via a number of pins, which will be hard to remove
B) Have the bronze paint applications on the thrusters, which I doubt will fair well if I immerse the parts in H2O2.

So, has anyone got ideas? I think I remember reading that the guys who came up with this also tried making a paste form of H2O2. Has anyone tried this?

Note that whitening of 1987 toys have not been successful. Please read my last post regarding Slugslinger before you proceed.

For some reason, 1987 toys react badly to the H2O2.

Skullcruncher
9th October 2010, 08:37 PM
Just confirming rubsigns stop working once they have been in H202? Any one any ideas how to protect them?

kup
9th October 2010, 08:38 PM
Just confirming rubsigns stop working once they have been in H202? Any one any ideas how to protect them?

Yes, rub signs are damaged by the H2O2. They remain indefinitely 'lit' after submersion.

Oilspill
9th October 2010, 08:57 PM
Note that whitening of 1987 toys have not been successful. Please read my last post regarding Slugslinger before you proceed.

For some reason, 1987 toys react badly to the H2O2.

I was assuming that the issues you mentioned were only encountered if the parts are submersed for a long time, because the examples you guys are using are really badly yellowed. Mine is just a bit yellowed, so I was hoping the issues you had with Slugslinger could be avoided.

kup
9th October 2010, 09:02 PM
I was assuming that the issues you mentioned were only encountered if the parts are submersed for a long time, because the examples you guys are using are really badly yellowed. Mine is just a bit yellowed, so I was hoping the issues you had with Slugslinger could be avoided.

No, the part was submerged for an appropriate amount of time. The day before there was still some yellowing on the plastic.

I had a 1987 Aimless targemaster for just a few days and he reacted badly to the H2O2 too.

1987 toys simply don't work well with H2O2 in liquid form, I have never tried the paste with them.

Oilspill
9th October 2010, 09:08 PM
No, the part was submerged for an appropriate amount of time. The day before there was still some yellowing on the plastic.

I had a 1987 Aimless targemaster for just a few days and he reacted badly to the H2O2 too.

1987 toys simply don't work well with H2O2 in liquid form, I have never tried the paste with them.

Ahh, scary. Cheers for the tip then. I may just leave him as he is for now.

Doubledealer
10th October 2010, 01:50 PM
Sorry if this has been answered before but does anyone know how chrome paint and clear plastic are affected by H202?

1orion2many
10th October 2010, 11:10 PM
Very badly, you lose all your chrome I believe and the clear plastic becomes a smokie mess:(

kup
10th October 2010, 11:44 PM
Very badly, you lose all your chrome I believe and the clear plastic becomes a smokie mess:(

Has the clear plastic reaction been proven? If so, are there photos of the actual results? Smokey may be a better alternative than an orange yellow loook if even all over.

Doubledealer
11th October 2010, 12:20 AM
Very badly, you lose all your chrome I believe and the clear plastic becomes a smokie mess:(

Woah, thanks for the heads up mate. I might try to seal the chrome part (which I can't remove) I need to bathe in H202 in Tamiya modelling tape and see how that goes. If it seeps through I'll just have to go to more effort and use Kosutte Gin-San. :p

Hey Kup, I read that for clear plastics you can actually restore them by wet/sanding them then buffing the part using toothpaste and a wet t-shirt. Apparently it's a slow process, you have to hold the part under running cold water while you sand going from 600 to 2000 grit sandpaper. Finally, to get the transparency back you use a mild abrasive (thus the toothpaste, the 'whitening' stuff is better apparently) and buff the hell out of it using the wet t-shirt. I'm going to attempt this soon to fix up some scratched G1 car screens (moving to finer grades of snadpaper only when the scratches are completely gone). I'll write a more detailed guide with pictures assuming it works.

bruticus
12th October 2010, 09:12 AM
I read that for clear plastics you can actually restore them by wet/sanding them then buffing the part using toothpaste and a wet t-shirt. Apparently it's a slow process, you have to hold the part under running cold water while you sand going from 600 to 2000 grit sandpaper. Finally, to get the transparency back you use a mild abrasive (thus the toothpaste, the 'whitening' stuff is better apparently) and buff the hell out of it using the wet t-shirt. I'm going to attempt this soon to fix up some scratched G1 car screens (moving to finer grades of snadpaper only when the scratches are completely gone). I'll write a more detailed guide with pictures assuming it works.

can you please send us a site to where you heard this from?

ive polished metal before by using that technique (600 grit to 2000 grit or finer with different cross strokes). It polished up really well to a mirror finish, but from experience, it took quite a bit off the metal and any uneven strokes/pressure will cause uneven abrasion.
so if you were attempting that technique on a thin plastic G1 car windshield then i doubt it will stand up to that method.

how deep are your scratches/smokiness?? if they aren't too deep, perhaps you can try polishing compound (http://www.hlj.com/product/FNS55937)
and then maybe toothpaste or a polishing cloth?
i haven't tried it yet but it should be less damaging than sandpaper?

Doubledealer
12th October 2010, 09:05 PM
can you please send us a site to where you heard this from?

http://themodelmakersresource.co.uk/articles/article010.html


ive polished metal before by using that technique (600 grit to 2000 grit or finer with different cross strokes). It polished up really well to a mirror finish, but from experience, it took quite a bit off the metal and any uneven strokes/pressure will cause uneven abrasion.
so if you were attempting that technique on a thin plastic G1 car windshield then i doubt it will stand up to that method.

how deep are your scratches/smokiness?? if they aren't too deep, perhaps you can try polishing compound (http://www.hlj.com/product/FNS55937)
and then maybe toothpaste or a polishing cloth?
i haven't tried it yet but it should be less damaging than sandpaper?

Hmm, after hearing your experience with the polished metal I think you're probably right, the already thin G1 car windshield would most likely become paper thin or worse.

I wouldn't say the scratches are particularly deep. They're more like frenzied surface scratches, kind of like the underside of a CD that hasn't been cared for all that well. Thanks for the HLJ link, I might have to try the polishing compound out sometime!

Skullcruncher
6th November 2010, 02:38 PM
Well heres my first attempt at using H2O2, the jar was in the sun for 3 1/2 hours. Pretty good but I'm still at the same level I was 20 years ago for applying stickers :o

Before
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/3594/sdc13580.th.jpg (http://img64.imageshack.us/i/sdc13580.jpg/)

After
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/5430/sdc13709.th.jpg (http://img198.imageshack.us/i/sdc13709.jpg/)

Comparison with another taiwan scourge - repo decepticon logos arn't as purple as the originals.
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9257/sdc13711w.th.jpg (http://img199.imageshack.us/i/sdc13711w.jpg/)

heroic_decepticon
6th November 2010, 06:50 PM
it's looking very good!

Oilspill
6th November 2010, 06:57 PM
Hmm maybe '87 toys can safely be whitened, provided they aren't super yellowed. Or is this an '86 figure?

heroic_decepticon
6th November 2010, 07:26 PM
Hmm maybe '87 toys can safely be whitened, provided they aren't super yellowed. Or is this an '86 figure?

Scourge is '86. Not sure what difference that would make though.

Oilspill
6th November 2010, 08:24 PM
Scourge is '86. Not sure what difference that would make though.

As long as he isn't the target master version ('87).

But I was saying this because someone (it may have been Kup) said that a lot of the '87 toys didn't react well to H2O2 and would get weird white spots.

Skullcruncher
6th November 2010, 09:46 PM
As long as he isn't the target master version ('87).

But I was saying this because someone (it may have been Kup) said that a lot of the '87 toys didn't react well to H2O2 and would get weird white spots.

Yeah I saw it work well on a scourge Kup did - was my inspiration :)


it's looking very good!

Thanks, hes gone from being at the back of the 'sweeps' to being up next to their leader - TM Scourge! :D

bruticus
7th November 2010, 01:00 AM
As long as he isn't the target master version ('87).

But I was saying this because someone (it may have been Kup) said that a lot of the '87 toys didn't react well to H2O2 and would get weird white spots.

i think what kup meant was that H2O2 didnt react well with the blue plastic on the little target masters buddies.

Oilspill
7th November 2010, 02:40 AM
The Slugslinger dual cockpit has finally finished restoring much of it's color. Unfortunately it is far from perfect.

The color isn't exactly like the original as it has a bleached sort of look. On top of that much of the surface has been damaged with odd powdery looking spots - This seems to be a common plastic surface reaction to the H2O2 with 1987 toys. Oddly enough, the unyellowed surface area under the plastic is unspoiled.
...
but it will still have a worn and damaged look on the surface of the plastic. Due to this, I would not classify the result as a fix.

Unfortunately the surface defects don't come out in photos but are very visible in person.


Note that whitening of 1987 toys have not been successful. Please read my last post regarding Slugslinger before you proceed.

For some reason, 1987 toys react badly to the H2O2.

^^Found the posts I was talking about. Also Kup said i was specifically a problem with '87 figures - Scourge is either '86 (original version) or '87 (targetmaster version), which is why I was wondering what version this Scourge was.

Oh, only just realised SC said this was TM Scourge.
So maybe I will have a shot at restoring my TriggerHappy figure - which is also an '87 figure and has only light yellowing.

I can't dismantle him though, so rather than dunking him in H2O2, I'm going to try to make the H2O2 in paste form. Not sure if anyone else on the boards has tried this yet. I'll let you know how it goes.

Doubledealer
7th November 2010, 03:12 AM
I can't dismantle him though, so rather than dunking him in H2O2, I'm going to try to make the H2O2 in paste form. Not sure if anyone else on the boards has tried this yet. I'll let you know how it goes.

I accidentally bought Hydrogen Peroxide in creme form one time (I use the bottle as a door stop now, lol), not sure if it works or not though. :p

Oilspill
7th November 2010, 07:14 PM
I accidentally bought Hydrogen Peroxide in creme form one time (I use the bottle as a door stop now, lol), not sure if it works or not though. :p

Hah, you can bleach your hair for a lifetime!

liegeprime
7th November 2010, 11:17 PM
I accidentally bought Hydrogen Peroxide in creme form one time (I use the bottle as a door stop now, lol), not sure if it works or not though. :p

where did you buy it - cream form H202?

Doubledealer
7th November 2010, 11:23 PM
Hah, you can bleach your hair for a lifetime!

Haha, yeap look out for the blonde ninja at the next Nexus. :p

liege, I bought it from a Priceline - It's called Creme Developer by Innovative. Ooh la la!

Sky Shadow
8th November 2010, 09:05 AM
Haha, yeap look out for the blonde ninja at the next Nexus. :p

liege, I bought it from a Priceline - It's called Creme Developer by Innovative. Ooh la la!

I've used that! On my toys, I mean. :p It seems to do the same job with whitening, the only issue I had was that I found part of the toy was slightly warped afterwards, but I'm not sure if that was the case beforehand and I just hadn't noticed or if it was a side-effect of one of the other ingredients in the creme.

kup
8th November 2010, 05:59 PM
^^Found the posts I was talking about. Also Kup said i was specifically a problem with '87 figures - Scourge is either '86 (original version) or '87 (targetmaster version), which is why I was wondering what version this Scourge was.

Oh, only just realised SC said this was TM Scourge.
So maybe I will have a shot at restoring my TriggerHappy figure - which is also an '87 figure and has only light yellowing.

I can't dismantle him though, so rather than dunking him in H2O2, I'm going to try to make the H2O2 in paste form. Not sure if anyone else on the boards has tried this yet. I'll let you know how it goes.

That's right. All 1987 'master figures I tested including the main character and Targetmaster have proven not to react well to H2O2. Although I have never tried restoring Headmasters, Eruntalon's Fort Max reacted badly to it so this may also include the '87 Headmasters range.

I have personally tried to restore two 'greened' Targetmaster Scourges. They have certainly cleared up very well to an acceptable color but at the same time I noticed that some very lite 'spotting' developed around the edges and curves of the wing piece and some other lite 'stains' on the surface. However it is very lite and not very noticeable (camera wouldn't pick it up) and certainly overwhelmingly better than the 'green'.

On the other hand the yellowed scourge which you have seen me restoring on this thread is actually a 1986 release and this has exhibited no ill reactions whatsoever. The color restored nicely and evenly throughout the surface.

As strange as this may be, I have only encountered this bad reactions to H2O2 on 1987 figures. I have tried it on 1988 and 1989 figures with no bad effect. 1984-1986 figures also respond well to it.

bruticus
8th November 2010, 08:45 PM
I have only encountered this bad reactions to H2O2 on 1987 figures. I have tried it on 1988 and 1989 figures with no bad effect. 1984-1986 figures also respond well to it.
what the? how many yellowed TFs do you have dude? :p

kup
8th November 2010, 09:45 PM
None now :)

* I accidentally clicked on Edit instead of reply, that is why you have a 'last edited by kup' on your post. Sorry about that :o.

5FDP
9th November 2010, 09:23 AM
My restoration skills basically come down to applying repro stickers and that's about it :o I would be waaaay too stressed out dunking a 20+ year old toy in a corrosive liquid bath. I envy those that have the skills (and balls) to do this.

1AZRAEL1
9th November 2010, 09:28 AM
My restoration skills basically come down to applying repro stickers and that's about it :o I would be waaaay too stressed out dunking a 20+ year old toy in a corrosive liquid bath. I envy those that have the skills (and balls) to do this.

That's why I get other people to do it for me :D

1AZRAEL1
9th November 2010, 09:29 AM
liege, I bought it from a Priceline - It's called Creme Developer by Innovative. Ooh la la!

Half tempted to pick up some myself and see how it works on the rest of Slugslinger. If it works, I may use it on other figures as well.

Eruntalon
30th November 2010, 04:01 PM
I'm going to be retro-brighting the remainder of my yellowed fort max as I cannot warrant spending any more money on copious amounts of H202.

Attached is the Xantham Gum, Glycerin, and H202 I picked up today. Xantham Gum and Glycerin were picked up at a Health Food Store. I now need some Oxy Action laundry powder.

Note to everyone who still hasn't made some of this goop: Mix the Xantham Gum and H202 together first in small amounts so that all of the Xantham Gum powder dissolves. Once that is done add the Glycerin, because as soon as that enters the mixture it wants to turn into a soapy gelatinous mess and the Xantham Gum will act like lumpy porridge if not dissolved properly.

liegeprime
30th November 2010, 11:23 PM
Erm dunno if it's been asked, too lazy to backtrack the posts, but does does it (H2O2) have a bad effect on clear, yellowed plastic? will it loose it's clarity and make it foggy?

bruticus
1st December 2010, 12:01 AM
I'm going to be retro-brighting the remainder of my yellowed fort max as I cannot warrant spending any more money on copious amounts of H202.

Attached is the Xantham Gum, Glycerin, and H202 I picked up today. Xantham Gum and Glycerin were picked up at a Health Food Store. I now need some Oxy Action laundry powder.

Note to everyone who still hasn't made some of this goop: Mix the Xantham Gum and H202 together first in small amounts so that all of the Xantham Gum powder dissolves. Once that is done add the Glycerin, because as soon as that enters the mixture it wants to turn into a soapy gelatinous mess and the Xantham Gum will act like lumpy porridge if not dissolved properly.

cool... cant wait to see how well it will work for you.
i have some yellowed TFs that i want to try the paste with cos they are too hard to disassemble without damaging but i have not been able to find the Xanthum gum and Glycerin yet.


Erm dunno if it's been asked, too lazy to backtrack the posts, but does does it (H2O2) have a bad effect on clear, yellowed plastic? will it loose it's clarity and make it foggy?


I believe and the clear plastic becomes a smokie mess:(

perhaps you can try on some scrap clear plastic to be sure first?

liegeprime
1st December 2010, 08:39 AM
@ Bruticus , cheers!

@ Eruntalon - update us with measurements for each component yeah? :)

heroic_decepticon
31st December 2010, 06:05 AM
Updated the whitening process of my Galaxy Shuttle here. (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2010/12/whitening-yellowed-transformers-toys.html)

sideswipes brother
5th February 2011, 04:05 PM
Bought my first lot of of the stuff this morning from a chemist. I spent 20 mins constantly walking around trying to find the stuff before i caved and asked for assistance and found that the stuff was behind the counter. I currently have Red Alerts spoilers in the mix with some Wheeljack parts.....really looking forward to seeing the results.:D
I got 100 mils for about $3. Quite good value if you ask me.

1AZRAEL1
6th February 2011, 09:57 AM
I'm tempted to get some and use it on my Mirage. I bought him yellowed, so can't complain too much.

sideswipes brother
10th February 2011, 08:36 AM
Bought my first lot of of the stuff this morning from a chemist. I spent 20 mins constantly walking around trying to find the stuff before i caved and asked for assistance and found that the stuff was behind the counter. I currently have Red Alerts spoilers in the mix with some Wheeljack parts.....really looking forward to seeing the results.:D
I got 100 mils for about $3. Quite good value if you ask me.

Although i dont have piccys yet i can tell you the results are amazing. I will be doing my entire Ramjet next. Awesome stuff.

kup
10th February 2011, 09:21 AM
1984-1985 white toys work really well with the H2O2. If you have a yellowed white toy from that era, it is worth giving it a go as the result could be a minty looking toy.

sideswipes brother
10th February 2011, 02:23 PM
Just a quick question. Does the stuff eventually 'run out'? After about 4 days of using it i have noticed less and less bubbles on the plastic parts. Is this normal?

kup
10th February 2011, 02:38 PM
Just a quick question. Does the stuff eventually 'run out'? After about 4 days of using it i have noticed less and less bubbles on the plastic parts. Is this normal?

Yes it does indeed run out eventually. The better sealed your jar is the longer it will last. Even if you have a pretty good seal on the jar, it will still allow vapors to scape so the 'working time' of the H2O2 depends on how well sealed your jar is.

heroic_decepticon
16th February 2011, 10:37 PM
Just a quick question. Does the stuff eventually 'run out'? After about 4 days of using it i have noticed less and less bubbles on the plastic parts. Is this normal?

*shameless plug* I got some summarised tips and results here if you want to have a look (but nothing you wouldn't be able to find in this thread). (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/search?q=whitening)

sideswipes brother
19th February 2011, 04:07 PM
About to place this set of Screamers wings in the H2O2. Will post the results after the treatment.

Before:
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae284/waylo15/screamers%20wings/IMG_2965.jpg

After:
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae284/waylo15/screamers%20wings/IMG_2973.jpg

6% solution with about 3 days of exposure. (one of the days was cloudy the other two bright sun)
Of note the tips of Screamers wings didn't even touch the liquid and they were whitened anyway.
Old H202 was used which may have affected the time and result.
Although you cannot see it in the photo, to the naked eye there is still a very very faint yellow tinge to the affected areas of the wings.

ITZTRU
9th March 2011, 02:21 PM
I received my G1 Ramjet today in the mail...it's yellowed to all hell! ebay pics can be deceiving :mad:

I'm wanting to give it a peroxide boost, but I'm a bit concerned about the rubber nose tip? Should I be?

1AZRAEL1
9th March 2011, 03:26 PM
I received my G1 Ramjet today in the mail...it's yellowed to all hell! ebay pics can be deceiving :mad:

I'm wanting to give it a peroxide boost, but I'm a bit concerned about the rubber nose tip? Should I be?

Don't think people have been game enough to test on the nose cone. perhaps you can remove it?

sideswipes brother
9th March 2011, 04:58 PM
I received my G1 Ramjet today in the mail...it's yellowed to all hell! ebay pics can be deceiving :mad:

I'm wanting to give it a peroxide boost, but I'm a bit concerned about the rubber nose tip? Should I be?

The nosecone is very easy to remove. Just twist gently and pull. I wouldn't place it in the H202 but thats up to you. If you do place the cone in the liquid make sure you post your results in this thread so we can see the effect it has.

Eruntalon
10th March 2011, 07:20 PM
Ladies and gentlemen, I have finally decided that since it's no longer legal to import higher percentage concentrations of H202 through the mail and no longer feasible to continue purchasing lower-strength hydrogen peroxide from my chemist I have decided to cut my loses and sell my spare Fortress Maximus on evil-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/G1-Transformer-Fortress-Maximus-incomplete-/190510726927?pt=AU_Action_Figures&hash=item2c5b52ff0f

I experimented with retrobright, and can say that yes it does work and is especially good on tricky areas where submerging entire pieces in chemicals is not possible, however I probably would have had more luck if I was in possession of higher concentrations than 12% H202.

If you want to see some general before and after shots then please follow the links below:

Before - when I first imported Fort Max from Japan:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/50224494@N03/4710763815/in/set-72157624274679859/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/50224494@N03/4710763943/in/set-72157624274679859/

After - now selling on ebay to cut my loses. I do however have two Fort Maxes so there will not be a void in my collection:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v503/eruntalon/ebay/?action=view&current=fortmax1.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v503/eruntalon/ebay/?action=view&current=fortmax3.jpg

kup
10th March 2011, 09:16 PM
Not bad, a huge accomplishment given the size of that toy.

liegeprime
10th March 2011, 10:04 PM
Erm retrobrite.... that the paste? did you use only the 3% on that, wow mustve been a huge jar:D:D

bruticus
11th March 2011, 07:32 AM
it's no longer legal to import higher percentage concentrations of H202 through the mail

is this true? when and why was this made illegal? or is it only applicable to your state?

Eruntalon
11th March 2011, 12:51 PM
Bruticus, I believe so to a certain extent, or at least it has become more difficult to go through the regular channels. After I imported some men's cologne I had it confiscated by Australia Post domestically because it was 'dangerous and potentially flammable in transit' even after it had gone through customs.


iThank you for your enquiry on our website.

Hydrogen Peroxides are prohibited to be carried by Australia Post as they are classed a Dangerous Good, Class 5 - Oxidising substance. Oxidising substances are themselves not necessarily combustible, however may generally cause or contribute to the combustion of other material by contributing oxygen.

Some common examples of Oxidising substances are as follows.
- Bleaching Agents
- Bromates
- Chlorates
- Disinfectants
- Fertilisers
- Nitrates
- Perchlorates
- Permanganate
- Peroxides

Some chemicals may be sent through Australia Post providing they are not classed as a dangerous good. We recommend researching each chemical carefully before sending.

Should you have any queries in relation to the above or any other postal matter, please do not hesitate to respond by return email.

Yours sincerely,

Karin F | Digital & Contact Centres - eServices | Australia Post
Online Services Consultant

gamblor916
11th March 2011, 01:22 PM
Bruticus, I believe so to a certain extent, or at least it has become more difficult to go through the regular channels. After I imported some men's cologne I had it confiscated by Australia Post domestically because it was 'dangerous and potentially flammable in transit' even after it had gone through customs.

Was this a recent occurance? I'm concerned about my model paints getting in now.

Eruntalon
11th March 2011, 04:42 PM
Was this a recent occurance? I'm concerned about my model paints getting in now.

As far as I can determine it has been in force from at least December 2010 to January 2011 when I last imported the men's cologne I had confiscated. I received the email above on around January 5 2011.

gamblor916
11th March 2011, 05:36 PM
Ok thanks for that info. My last shipment was 12 Feb last month (including a lot of thinners :eek:).

bruticus
12th March 2011, 12:31 AM
Bruticus, I believe so to a certain extent, or at least it has become more difficult to go through the regular channels. After I imported some men's cologne I had it confiscated by Australia Post domestically because it was 'dangerous and potentially flammable in transit' even after it had gone through customs.

are that sux b*lls to hear. i should have bought more when i had the chance.

Oilspill
12th March 2011, 03:37 AM
I got 35% Hydrogen Peroxide with no issues, but it was back in November.

Atlmyk
9th April 2011, 07:15 AM
Since this is the only thread I have seen with recent activity on the peroxide treatment I am hoping I can get answers here. I want to treat my Star Saber. Most of the white pieces I can break down but one section has me troubled. The gold plated section of the tail on my saber jet is in pristine condition but the white tailfins next to it need treating. I would rather not remove the hinge pin if possible. If the gold plating will be fine then I would prefer to treat the piece whole. Going on my experience with doing this on jetfire I will probably get by with one 6-8 hour soak.

kup
9th April 2011, 07:37 AM
Never tried it on chrome pieces but H2O2 is corrosive so I would strongly recommend against it, specially on an expensive and rare vintage figure like Star Saber.

If you can remove the gold plated part then that would probably be best.

Atlmyk
9th April 2011, 09:14 AM
Thanks for the reply. Since the gold plating is not ferrous or copper,since it is not green by now, I did not think the oxygen would effect it. My fear was bubbles forming between the plastic and paint like it can do on painted metal parts. Ah well those pieces are not seen much anyways.

heroic_decepticon
9th April 2011, 12:45 PM
I don't think soaking a chrome 'plated' piece of plastic in H2O2 has been done before. I certainly have a 'gut feel' that it'd be detrimental to the chrome and would, like Kup, advise against it.

If you do still decide try it however, please post your results here because they'd be very useful.

1orion2many
10th April 2011, 10:15 AM
I thought someone had accidently done it here and stripped the chrome of the rims of a car or something like that:confused:

Doubledealer
11th April 2011, 12:55 PM
I know from experience that H202 totally strips chrome. Don't do it!

canofwhoopass_87
12th April 2011, 06:58 PM
I'm not sure if this has been discussed...but what about giving a yellowed G1 Slugslinger a H202 bath? There are so many loose, sun damaged ones floating on ebay. Is H202 only recommended for whitening figures that are originally white to begin with?

heroic_decepticon
12th April 2011, 07:21 PM
I'm not sure if this has been discussed...but what about giving a yellowed G1 Slugslinger a H202 bath? There are so many loose, sun damaged ones floating on ebay. Is H202 only recommended for whitening figures that are originally white to begin with?

Kup did pretty extensive research into the 1987 toys and Slugslinger in particular. You should be able to find photos and write ups by browsing the earlier portions of this thread. :D

liegeprime
13th April 2011, 08:18 AM
I'm not sure if this has been discussed...but what about giving a yellowed G1 Slugslinger a H202 bath? There are so many loose, sun damaged ones floating on ebay. Is H202 only recommended for whitening figures that are originally white to begin with?

apparently as per kup, slugslinger comes out pretty white... which should not be, since he is somewhat off white, grayish originally. th eplastic seems to loose its luster as well. He did mention that the H2O2 seems to cause changes inn the plastic for late G1 figs

1AZRAEL1
13th April 2011, 09:06 AM
I'm not sure if this has been discussed...but what about giving a yellowed G1 Slugslinger a H202 bath? There are so many loose, sun damaged ones floating on ebay. Is H202 only recommended for whitening figures that are originally white to begin with?

I had a really badly yellowed junker we wanted to test on. I got Kup to give it a go to see how it went.

Here is a before.


I have 1Azrael1's yellowed '87 Targetmaster toys which I will attempt to clear up with H2O2.

Slugslinger will be the first and as you can see, he is very yellowed. I will try the twin cockpit first and the rest of the body can serve as a control so that we can check the level of improvement.

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow.JPG

This test will likely take a few weeks or more as I use a very low concentration of H2O2 but I will post every couple of weeks to check on improvement.

And at the end of treatment.


The Slugslinger dual cockpit has finally finished restoring much of it's color. Unfortunately it is far from perfect.

The color isn't exactly like the original as it has a bleached sort of look. On top of that much of the surface has been damaged with odd powdery looking spots - This seems to be a common plastic surface reaction to the H2O2 with 1987 toys. Oddly enough, the unyellowed surface area under the plastic is unspoiled.

On the bright side, this will certainly display much better than a yellowed figure as you can see by the picture but it will still have a worn and damaged look on the surface of the plastic. Due to this, I would not classify the result as a fix.

Unfortunately the surface defects don't come out in photos but are very visible in person. I have also linked a high-res picture which shows a bit of the surface defects at the tip of the nosecones but it still not representative of the actual damage.

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow4x.JPG

High-Res photo:

http://kupscigar.com/fixes/1azyellow4.JPG


Sadly, I wouldn't suggest you buy one in the hope of fixing it with H2O2.

canofwhoopass_87
14th April 2011, 04:40 PM
Wow very interesting indeed. Thanks so much guys for the followup to my question. I actually remember now, reading something about the 87 series not being too H202 friendly in this thread awhile back. I probably should've dug into it before asking.

Find it very odd that Slugslinger is so prone to yellowing. It might even be a case of heat sensitivity, not just the sun. Just a wild guess though - since about 80% of loose ones on ebay that I've come across are sun damaged. I believe his friend Triggerhappy also suffers the same premise.

heroic_decepticon
16th April 2011, 03:07 PM
Find it very odd that Slugslinger is so prone to yellowing. It might even be a case of heat sensitivity, not just the sun. Just a wild guess though - since about 80% of loose ones on ebay that I've come across are sun damaged. I believe his friend Triggerhappy also suffers the same premise.

I think you are onto something there. It could be something in the air, or just the temperature. My MIB Slugslinger (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2009/10/massive-saturday-part-3-targetmaster.html) and Triggerhappy (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2009/09/monday-blues-targetmaster-triggerhappy.html) which I bought from a dude in the US, are now slowly showing signs of yellowing. No idea why.

Hursticon
17th April 2011, 03:42 PM
I think you are onto something there. It could be something in the air, or just the temperature. My MIB Slugslinger (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2009/10/massive-saturday-part-3-targetmaster.html) and Triggerhappy (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2009/09/monday-blues-targetmaster-triggerhappy.html) which I bought from a dude in the US, are now slowly showing signs of yellowing. No idea why.

That sucks man, I'm sorry to hear that - It sucks that those 2 years in TF production saw the use of evidently inferior grade plastics, it would seem that these figures aren't safe anywhere. :(

kup
17th April 2011, 08:28 PM
That sucks man, I'm sorry to hear that - It sucks that those 2 years in TF production saw the use of evidently inferior grade plastics, it would seem that these figures aren't safe anywhere. :(

It's got to a point that if those figures do indeed yellow, the best way to fix them would be to find an original color matching spray paint. It's not great but it would be more aesthetically pleasing than a mustard yellow toy and if done right, it would be unnoticeable.

Atlmyk
21st April 2011, 08:18 AM
I know from experience that H202 totally strips chrome. Don't do it!

I did not do it on my star saber. I went back to try removing the pins and they slid out with ease. I think the first time I tried was right after I gave it a hot water scrubbing. I think the heat swelled the pins too much. As an experiment I did soak a faded Overlord Mega powermaster and the chrome was stripped of very nicely so I can doubly confirm you do not want to put chrome in unless you need it stripped.

Not sure if this has been mentioned here before but I know glass blocks most UV light. Here is the best explanation I can find and link on the webbernets...
http://www.physicsforums.com/archive/index.php/t-382015.html
The point being that using a glass jar is like putting spf 100 sunscreen on the pieces before putting them out to get as much UV light as possible. Knowing this I tried a different method and got full white in about 1 hour. And putting a jar behind a window is about as good as sticking it in a dark closet.

I used a glass roasting pan like this
http://iweb.foodnetworkstore.com/images/products/shprodde/187479.jpg I only used regular store bought 3% peroxide amped up with 1tbs of oxygen cleaner per 50ml. I arranged the pieces and placed outside in a nice sunny section of my deck. I mixed the peroxide and powder in a pitcher and only poured on after I had the roaster where I wanted it. Thin liquids and somewhat shallow pans are a big splash risk and I would hate to get this on my carpet. I covered in plastic wrap and since I had one to use I propped up a mirror next to the pan to drop even more uv rays on the brew. I did this in hopes of avoiding multiple days of soaking, Victory Leo had extensive yellowing. After a little over one hour I went out to make sure the brew was still out of the sun and adjust the mirror. After adjusting I got curious and pulled back the plastic wrap and fished out a piece from under the foam and I was shocked, it was one of the pieces that was almost beyond yellowing and at the point of browning but now after only a few minutes it was white as mountain snow. I brought it in, washed and compared and it was fully whitened.

Long story short (tldr) Get as much uv light as possible and don't worry about strong peroxide. I did this on April 9th in a north Atlanta suburb in 2pm sun.

bruticus
22nd April 2011, 10:42 AM
thanks Atlmyk for sharing with us your experience and for the link ~explaining about UV being blocked by glass.
Do you have any before and after pics you can show us?

my results are here (http://www.otca.com.au/boards/showpost.php?p=169552&postcount=47):

i cant speak for the others who have tried this, but i chose to keep the parts in a sealed glass jar because:
a) i didnt want to accidentally spill any on the floor or myself.
b) i didnt want it to evaporate (especially for large open surface area)

however, it does raise an interesting idea and i wouldnt mind testing the speed out myself next time with the open dish approach.

Supergodginrai
23rd April 2011, 06:49 PM
Hi all, I managed to whiten one of my slight yellowing Grand Max in Jan 2011. Recently, when I opened and see it, the yellowing is back again.

FYI, I am using a 6% Hydrogen Peroxide and following all the instruction given. The room I put Grand Max is ZERO contact with sunlight or UV as it was locked and totally dark.

I am seriously thinking to repaint it with a white paint instead of the peroxide methods.

griffin
23rd April 2011, 08:57 PM
I've noticed some of mine yellowing on the sides facing away from any lightsources, in a room without sunlight... which I thought was weird, and am thinking there is some other environmental factor yellowing toys as well as UV.

kup
24th April 2011, 01:32 AM
I've noticed some of mine yellowing on the sides facing away from any lightsources, in a room without sunlight... which I thought was weird, and am thinking there is some other environmental factor yellowing toys as well as UV.

I suspect moisture and some types of lightbulb may also cause it.

liegeprime
24th April 2011, 05:57 AM
hmmm my G1 downshift is starting to yellow as well - kinda like Classics Ramjet, and my collection room is blocked out from the sun... prolly those plastics used really do just get yellowed after some time (plastic formula problem) better grab me some H2O2 again...darn now Ill have to buy another sticker set coz it will peel off:(.

Also the ones I did soak and gotten white before - AM Megatron, RiD Prowl did yellow again after a few months:(:( but I dont want to dip AM megs again coz the other colored bits of him are already fading (purple groin, eyes, fists)

Supergodginrai
24th April 2011, 10:44 AM
This is a very discouraging news/fact that the yellowing will return.Can't we have a permanent solution to this?

kup
24th April 2011, 02:37 PM
This is a very discouraging news/fact that the yellowing will return.Can't we have a permanent solution to this?

Painting them would be the only way and that is not much of a solution. Unfortunately that's the chemistry of the plastic and there is little that can be done.

Liege, Use Heroic Decepticon's sticker removal method with lighter fluid to safely remove your stickers before dipping.

http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-to-remove-price-tags-stickers-from.html

heroic_decepticon
26th April 2011, 10:39 PM
*snip*

Not sure if this has been mentioned here before but I know glass blocks most UV light. Here is the best explanation I can find and link on the webbernets...
http://www.physicsforums.com/archive/index.php/t-382015.html
The point being that using a glass jar is like putting spf 100 sunscreen on the pieces before putting them out to get as much UV light as possible. Knowing this I tried a different method and got full white in about 1 hour. And putting a jar behind a window is about as good as sticking it in a dark closet.

I used a glass roasting pan like this
http://iweb.foodnetworkstore.com/images/products/shprodde/187479.jpg I only used regular store bought 3% peroxide amped up with 1tbs of oxygen cleaner per 50ml. I arranged the pieces and placed outside in a nice sunny section of my deck. I mixed the peroxide and powder in a pitcher and only poured on after I had the roaster where I wanted it. Thin liquids and somewhat shallow pans are a big splash risk and I would hate to get this on my carpet. I covered in plastic wrap and since I had one to use I propped up a mirror next to the pan to drop even more uv rays on the brew. I did this in hopes of avoiding multiple days of soaking, Victory Leo had extensive yellowing. After a little over one hour I went out to make sure the brew was still out of the sun and adjust the mirror. After adjusting I got curious and pulled back the plastic wrap and fished out a piece from under the foam and I was shocked, it was one of the pieces that was almost beyond yellowing and at the point of browning but now after only a few minutes it was white as mountain snow. I brought it in, washed and compared and it was fully whitened.

Long story short (tldr) Get as much uv light as possible and don't worry about strong peroxide. I did this on April 9th in a north Atlanta suburb in 2pm sun.

Thanks for the tips dude.

I have mirrored your advice above onto my site, here (http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2010/12/whitening-yellowed-transformers-toys.html). Hope it helps more people! :D

heroic_decepticon
26th April 2011, 10:40 PM
Liege, Use Heroic Decepticon's sticker removal method with lighter fluid to safely remove your stickers before dipping.

http://heroicdecepticon.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-to-remove-price-tags-stickers-from.html

Damnit Leige, we share the same basement and you don't yet know the Zippo magic juice formula? :p

liegeprime
27th April 2011, 08:53 AM
Damnit Leige, we share the same basement and you don't yet know the Zippo magic juice formula? :p


I use it to burn stuff..... is all:p:p:D me like flamessssss

Atlmyk
28th April 2011, 07:32 AM
thanks Atlmyk for sharing with us your experience and for the link ~explaining about UV being blocked by glass.
Do you have any before and after pics you can show us?

my results are here (http://www.otca.com.au/boards/showpost.php?p=169552&postcount=47):

i cant speak for the others who have tried this, but i chose to keep the parts in a sealed glass jar because:
a) i didnt want to accidentally spill any on the floor or myself.
b) i didnt want it to evaporate (especially for large open surface area)

however, it does raise an interesting idea and i wouldnt mind testing the speed out myself next time with the open dish approach.

I did take a few camera phone pics so I could remember how to reassemble when I was finished. They were not well lit since I really only planned to use them as a rebuilding reference. Still I do have one ok comparison shot. Some how a few pieces were left on the counter and did not get soaked with the others. Here is a shot of two halves of the same leg.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/stormcats/SS/StSbLeg.jpg
Sorry the lighting was not better. I wish I had a before picture of Victory Leo's wing center piece. It was not as brown as the Slugslinger on the previous page but I would say it was about halfway there.

I will post better pictures on the finished product when the missing label sheet shows up in a few days.

Oilspill
1st May 2011, 11:10 PM
I thought I saw this mentioned somewhere but couldn't find it in this thread.

I just obtained a Skullgrin recently, and there are little brown spots all over the white plastic. I haven't tried cleaning it yet, but it doesn't look like surface dirt, it looks like spots of the plastic have turned brown. I thought I remembered someone else saying this had happened to one of their pretenders.

So, does H2O2 work on this, or was there another way to fix it?

Sky Shadow
2nd May 2011, 01:12 AM
I thought I saw this mentioned somewhere but couldn't find it in this thread.

I just obtained a Skullgrin recently, and there are little brown spots all over the white plastic. I haven't tried cleaning it yet, but it doesn't look like surface dirt, it looks like spots of the plastic have turned brown. I thought I remembered someone else saying this had happened to one of their pretenders.

So, does H2O2 work on this, or was there another way to fix it?

I've mentioned it before here:

http://www.otca.com.au/boards/showthread.php?p=166820#post166820

Sadly I don't think hydrogen peroxide is a cure.

kup
2nd May 2011, 11:09 AM
I thought I saw this mentioned somewhere but couldn't find it in this thread.

I just obtained a Skullgrin recently, and there are little brown spots all over the white plastic. I haven't tried cleaning it yet, but it doesn't look like surface dirt, it looks like spots of the plastic have turned brown. I thought I remembered someone else saying this had happened to one of their pretenders.

So, does H2O2 work on this, or was there another way to fix it?

I think that is more to do with fungi remnants on the surface. You can't get rid of it. A similar but worse thing happens to the Monstructor shells.

1AZRAEL1
2nd May 2011, 12:08 PM
I think that is more to do with fungi remnants on the surface. You can't get rid of it. A similar but worse thing happens to the Monstructor shells.

Yep, one of my shells is bad as well. My Wildfly shell is blotchy.

canofwhoopass_87
8th July 2011, 01:01 PM
I'm not sure if this has been discussed, but instead of a full HP bath, has anyone tried superficial plastic cleaning agents?

Would something like this clean those splotches or even possible clear up yelowed bubbles in G1 packaging?

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/mothers/plastic_polish

kup
8th July 2011, 02:47 PM
I'm not sure if this has been discussed, but instead of a full HP bath, has anyone tried superficial plastic cleaning agents?

Would something like this clean those splotches or even possible clear up yelowed bubbles in G1 packaging?

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/mothers/plastic_polish

I tried that once - Failed horribly. It made the plastic really dull looking.

Also keep in mind that the color change is not exactly 'matter' that is on the plastic but the plastic itself that has undergone a chemical change.

jazzcomp
8th July 2011, 03:48 PM
Does the color of bulb/globe increase or decrease the yellowness/yellowing on toys?

kup
8th July 2011, 08:59 PM
Does the color of bulb/globe increase or decrease the yellowness/yellowing on toys?

I am not sure but I can certainly say that yellow is not healthy.

Edit: Sorry I accidentally hit 'edit' in your post while trying to reply :rolleyes:

Skullcruncher
20th July 2011, 08:45 PM
Has anyone tried to unyellow a getaway powermaster body?

Also does Hydrogen Peroxide loose its strength? I have a jar of the stuff left over when I did a scourge which was over 6 months ago...

kup
20th July 2011, 10:04 PM
I haven't tried to whiten a 1988 (PM era) toy before so I have no idea if it would work. Hopefully they stopped using that H2O2 unfriendly plastic from the 1987 Headmasters.

H2O2 does indeed loose potency over time. You notice it by how quickly it forms bubbles upon the surface of the plastic.

liegeprime
21st July 2011, 10:32 AM
Well I have a Getaway Ive disassembled for that purpose.
Only 3 things have halted the progress of this project.

First, I still have to get a new batch of H2O2 as my old batch was bubble free already ( so I guess , yeah that answers the other query - it looses strength in time.
Second I need a bigger jar with a glass top, coz my available jar wont fit Getaway's parts.
Third, Need sun, it's been gloomy since it's winter:(:(

Skullcruncher
21st July 2011, 11:28 AM
Well I have a Getaway Ive disassembled for that purpose.
Only 3 things have halted the progress of this project.

First, I still have to get a new batch of H2O2 as my old batch was bubble free already ( so I guess , yeah that answers the other query - it looses strength in time.
Second I need a bigger jar with a glass top, coz my available jar wont fit Getaway's parts.
Third, Need sun, it's been gloomy since it's winter:(:(

Heh well I took one of my getaways sides/arms off, put it in a jar with old as H202 and put it outisde at 11pm last night. And as of now it still appears the sun hasn't risen yet :D so I will check tonight if any progress is made :)

bruticus
22nd July 2011, 01:18 PM
thats why a UV lamp is handy at a time like this where sunlight is limited. do everything indoors.

also, for those that are attempting to improve their yellowed getaway, how do you plan to repair the windscreen section in H2O2 cos it has actual paint on the windscreen? i mean, wouldnt that be at risk of becoming pink-ish?

kup
22nd July 2011, 04:11 PM
thats why a UV lamp is handy at a time like this where sunlight is limited. do everything indoors.

also, for those that are attempting to improve their yellowed getaway, how do you plan to repair the windscreen section in H2O2 cos it has actual paint on the windscreen? i mean, wouldnt that be at risk of becoming pink-ish?

I have only heard of a few occurrences of paint becoming affected. Personally, I have only seen it once and that was with a 1987 targetmaster (gun guy) when his face went a paler shade of red.

Aside from that, all painted figures have come out just fine, an example that I can think of now Vroom. His paint actually came out cleaner and brighter! That's probably due to a lot of the dirt and crap on the surface being dissolved by the H2O2 which was probably a safer thing than wiping it with a cleaning agent.

VERT
31st July 2011, 07:36 PM
Okay I thought I would give this a go. First up was G1 Whirl with 6%Peroxide been two days and is working but so slow. Next up I got a one ltr bottle of 12% Creme Peroxide from (Price attack?) Lots of Hair products (was my wifes idea to look at that place)

I used it on my G1 Getaway. Painted it on thick with a brush and left him out in the sun all day. It worked great and he is as white as he was when he was new. No damage has been done to the figure. Total success. Will try it on the Whirl tomorow I think.

liegeprime
31st July 2011, 10:18 PM
Sweet VERT!! can we see some pics? Oh pics as well of that peroxide cream your talking about... would be a better idea to use Iguess with my AM megs since the gray and purple parts are already fading from last time I dipped it in a bath.

VERT
1st August 2011, 09:07 AM
Okay just some pics of Getaway's Car mode and the bottle. Enjoy :D

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff473/VERTYSNAP/Getaway192.jpg
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff473/VERTYSNAP/Getaway191.jpg

bruticus
1st August 2011, 12:39 PM
wow... thats excellent results on getaway!! its bright white!
the cream sounds like a much better solution when you dont want to dunk the entire part in H2O2 solution

how much did it cos for the 12% peroxide cream? i want to give it a go too.

VERT
1st August 2011, 12:44 PM
It just cost $10 :D I coated Whirl and Scourge both really yellow at 9:00 am just looked at them and wow almost done. They have been out in the sun all day. This cream is fast and works. :D Its kinda like a clear Gell so happy with how its working.

kup
2nd August 2011, 09:50 AM
It would be interesting to try it on a 1987 toy which isn't so liquid H2O2 friendly.

1AZRAEL1
2nd August 2011, 10:13 AM
It would be interesting to try it on a 1987 toy which isn't so liquid H2O2 friendly.

Could always test it on the rest of Slugslinger :p

I am tempted to pick some up anyway to use on Octane and a few others that are a bit bad.

VERT
2nd August 2011, 11:49 AM
Im working on a 1987 Pointblank was in real bad shape. So far so good. Sludgeslinger I might try if he needs it. He is not that bad and in good shape. Will post picks soon.

I have used the cream on
Scourge. Worked great
Whirl. Worked great
Hotspot.. Worked great
Pointblank...Soon Might give the boy an extra day.
Blur. Worked great.

liegeprime
2nd August 2011, 11:57 AM
Nice, ill buy a bottle and test t too, need to put some on that failed Rid Prowl, AM megs, G1 Rippersnapper and Hun gurrr, as well as my 2nd getaway ( which I need to reassemble really:p), Thanks for the discovery VERT! Also might use this on a Stay Puft figure which has a smudge on his person:D

Skullcruncher
2nd August 2011, 12:43 PM
Wow this is really good stuff. Great find Vert. Must get some of this :D

VERT
2nd August 2011, 01:48 PM
Okay pics of a Finished Blur and Scourge. Looking good. Blur only needed it on the Arms.

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff473/VERTYSNAP/Scourge089.jpg

VERT
2nd August 2011, 03:02 PM
Oh I should say so far I have been avoiding putting this on Stickers or paint. So its up to you if you try it :D

VERT
3rd August 2011, 02:08 PM
Trying this on my Action Master Megatron and prowl also my old 1978 Original Starwars 12inch Stormtrooper. Wish them luck.

The Pointblank figure turned out so so. The Blue is alot better BUT I think two types of plastic were used on the Arms. Lower and Hands and much nicer looking then the the rest of the arms. The Red is a little off colour too. Bit its okay me still looks better than he did.

So it works well on Getaway, Hotspot, Scourge.

I will post more when I know how the others turn out. :D

canofwhoopass_87
3rd August 2011, 08:53 PM
Looks amazing! Would be nice to get some "before" shots to see the full extent of the results too if you happen to have any

I'm very very keen on seeing the results with Slugslinger too. Man you are a legend Vert (and kudos to your wife for pointing you in the right direction :D)

liegeprime
3rd August 2011, 09:22 PM
I just picked up a bottle from Priceline this morning:D will try this on my days off, just need to find my brush too.

VERT
3rd August 2011, 09:45 PM
Looks amazing! Would be nice to get some "before" shots to see the full extent of the results too if you happen to have any

I'm very very keen on seeing the results with Slugslinger too. Man you are a legend Vert (and kudos to your wife for pointing you in the right direction :D)

Hey thanks :D Yeah she did have a good idea getting that stuff. I would love some before pics to. But I have not taken any....Other than Pointblank. I will try to take some more pics for you. I just tend to grab stuff and do it.

Action Master Megatron and Prowl worked great too :D Slugslinger I still have to think about.

VERT
3rd August 2011, 09:48 PM
I just picked up a bottle from Priceline this morning:D will try this on my days off, just need to find my brush too.

Cool, just put it on nice and thick on the yellowed part and leave it in the sun for a day. May have to put more on as the sun may dry the Gell a little

1AZRAEL1
4th August 2011, 08:21 AM
Slugslinger I still have to think about.

Wait till I have tested it on my junker if you want, just in case it screws it up like the acid does. I should be picking some of this up this weekend. I need to use it on a couple of my figures (Octane is a fairly bad one of mine)

Dante112011
8th August 2011, 08:43 PM
I got an inbound Jazz that I gotta try this on...spose it helps that he's like 1/2 metal, plastic bits are a bit yellowed...here's hoping...then might try it on my hair afterwards if successful...hehehe!

1AZRAEL1
9th August 2011, 06:55 AM
I picked up some of the stuff on the weekend, but I haven't had the chance to test it out on anything yet. I should do this Saturday.

canofwhoopass_87
9th August 2011, 07:43 AM
I got my Slugslinger in the mail last week and he's in surprisingly good condition. Still, if you guys are gona toy around with a yellowed junker I'm still very eager to see the outcome, given the excellent results on Scourge/Blurr/Getaway.

Aqua Prime
13th August 2011, 05:56 PM
After reading through this thread I know that liquid Hydrogen Peroxide and 1987 TM's don't mix. So I'm attempting to "restore" a somewhat "junker" Triggerhappy with Creme Peroxide 12% and will let everyone know how he goes.

I also have access to 50% Peroxide at work so if need be I can try a short bath for comparisons sake. I'm thinking that maybe a shorter bath with a higher concentration might be ok. I can also dilute it down to try a longer bath at a lower concentration on a Slugslinger I have here somewhere.

Hopefully I can contribute something to this thread :)

jena
16th August 2011, 04:34 AM
Starting Thursday Priceline have 30-50% off hair dyes so you could pick up a bottle at a cheaper price.

Dante112011
16th August 2011, 08:56 PM
Hi guys,

Just got my Jazz today, and made me sad to see his white bits yellowed (his shoulders/fenders, spoilers, and doors (which will be a b*tch to do as it has the #4 sticker on them and I'll have to either buy new doors or order reprostickers (which I'm not keen to do)...). Before I do anything, I need to know if there has been any measure of success with whitening a Jazz or something similar from the same era...I've looked back a bit, but couldn't find much. Help a brother out here?

kup
16th August 2011, 09:31 PM
The only G1 toys known to react badly to H2O2 are 1987 toys. Jazz in 1984 and although I can't sat 100% that it will work, I am pretty confident that it would.

Try it and see what happens, you may not have much to loose and a lot to gain. You need to disassemble him and try one of the pieces, then compare it to the others. If you see an improvement, go with the rest.

snaketales
17th August 2011, 10:45 PM
I had a go using 12% creme peroxide on First Aid today. He has come out whiter - you can tell which section has had more sun than the other, so I will have to rotate him next time.

After an accident cleaning some gunk off him I can also attest to the effectiveness of Diggers isopropyl alcohol at removing paint :(

Dante112011
18th August 2011, 06:30 PM
I had a go using 12% creme peroxide on First Aid today. He has come out whiter - you can tell which section has had more sun than the other, so I will have to rotate him next time.

After an accident cleaning some gunk off him I can also attest to the effectiveness of Diggers isopropyl alcohol at removing paint :(

might have to do some taping of the painted parts before application...u done any '84 era figures?

zannus
20th August 2011, 05:25 AM
This thread has been my best resource so far in learning how to de-yellow my figures so I decided to register and ask a question before I try anything. I have a set of Technobots thats starting to yellow, but they are sadly 1987 stamped. Has anyone figured out a way to whiten the 1987 figures without damaging the plastic or am I basically screwed?

VERT
20th August 2011, 07:24 AM
Do you have something to test it on? I did my 87 Hunn-Grrr the other day. Most of it worked but the hinge that holds the tail on actually turned more yellow.