De-Chroming bits and pieces how to guide

[Doubledealer]

I'm in the process of restoring an original G1 Galvatron, and part of that process involves the re-chroming of 3 of his 4 chrome parts (fortunately, his '4 pack' is faultless). Before I even think about applying any paint (I won't be using comparatively expensive plating techniques) I'll need to remove the chrome that is there, as seen below.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu332/Doubledealer_83/Transformers/G1/GalvatronPartstoChrome.jpg

To achieve this, I've gathered the following products:
-Latex gloves (not pictured)
-Easy-Off BAM @ $4.80
-Paper Towel
-Hard bristled Toothbrush
-Small Container
-Cotton wool bud (optional)

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu332/Doubledealer_83/Transformers/G1/dechrominggear.jpg

Here are the steps taken to remove the chrome:
Step 1: Put gloves on
Step 2: Place the 3 parts into the small container
Step 3: Pour enough Easy-Off BAM over the parts to cover them
Step 4: Using the cotton wool bud and/or toothbrush, brush over the remaining chrome paint until all gone (there is no waiting period required, the chrome paint will come off easy peasy like taking Energon candy from a Minicon)
Step 5: Wash the de-chromed parts in dishwashing detergent + warm water
Step 6: Rinse them under cold water
Step 7: Use paper towel to dry them off

All done! Just look how happy Galvatron is with the results. :D

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu332/Doubledealer_83/Transformers/G1/G1GavlatrondechromedHAPPY.jpg

[gamblor916]

Nice tips, I have to try that sometime. What I find interesting is that one type of remover that I use (Dawn Power Dissolver) is really basic while the Easy Off is really acidic, if I read the contents correctly, but both do the same job.

[Doubledealer]

Nice tips, I have to try that sometime. What I find interesting is that one type of remover that I use (Dawn Power Dissolver) is really basic while the Easy Off is really acidic, if I read the contents correctly, but both do the same job.

Thanks Gamblor. :) Is Dawn Power Dissolver an oven cleaner? I've read that quite a few substances can do the job of de-chroming from oven cleaner and bleach to other things like brake fluid. Not sure how the others fare but I love the fact that BAM removes the chrome paint instantly, it's brill!

[gamblor916]

It was sold as something to clean pots and pans. I found it at a dollar store for well, a dollar, then it disappeared never to be seen again. Lucky I bought around 8 bottles :D

[bruticus]

i have been using nail polish remover to strip the chrome. it works but you need quite a bit of it (cos it evaporates quickly). it also stinks like hell and can damage furniture like table tops if you spill it...
might have to give Easy Off Bam or Dawn Power Dissolver a go instead.

i bought a whole bunch of those Kosutte Gin-san powders and have been messing around with different things trying to get the technique right.

on white plastic, the chrome has a yellowy tint depending on the viewing angle.
on black and also blue plastic, it looks really dark.
on flat plastic, the chrome is pretty dull so you definitely need glossy plastic.

logically, i would assume that plastic with a glossy grey coat should give the best results so i'll give it a go next time. otherwise, i'll revert to applying more coats on the gloss black plastic and hopefully it will make it lighter.

[Doubledealer]

How are you applying the primer, via an aerosol can or airbrush? If the latter, what are you thinning the paint with?

I'll be using Tamiya Gloss Black & Tamiya thinner using an airbrush. I've read that using cheaper thinning alternatives (like Windex) will dull the gloss effect so are probably best avoided when using Kosutte Gin-san, Alclad 2 etc.

Navy blue is meant to produce good results too, can't wait to experiment (come on posty, where's my airbrush already :p)!

[gamblor916]

Bruticus if you could post pics of your test results that would be great. I've just received my pack of Kosutte Gin-san but haven't tried it out yet.

[Doubledealer]

Was just reading the below article on Alclad and the person recommends using Enamels for the best chrome primer rather than Acrylics...Gawd this stuff is confusing. :p


For Highly Polished Aluminium use gloss black ACRYLIC. For Chrome use gloss black ENAMEL


High shine finishes work best over black as this traps most of the light falling on it. The Chrome shade will only produce a robust chrome finish when applied over a dark gloss enamel base coat.

Highly Polished Aluminium will produce best results when applied over gloss black acrylic-auto paint or model acrylics e.g Tamiya gloss black.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT009_Alclad/TNT009.htm

[bruticus]

How are you applying the primer, via an aerosol can or airbrush?

im using an airbush with tamiya acrylic gloss paints and thinning with methylated spirits. results are still shiny.

let me know if using tamiya thinners produce a better result, otherwise im sticking to methylated spirits cos they are a hell of a lot cheaper and are also really great for cleaning the airbrush afterwards.


Bruticus if you could post pics of your test results that would be great. I've just received my pack of Kosutte Gin-san but haven't tried it out yet.

i can if you want, but i have only been testing on scrap bits of plastic like plastic spoons, plastic forks and straws etc. not really exciting to show off as the real deal. when i move onto TF parts then i can post some up then.


Was just reading the below article on Alclad and the person recommends using Enamels for the best chrome primer rather than Acrylics...Gawd this stuff is confusing. :p

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT009_Alclad/TNT009.htm

erm, too confusing. all i know is that you need to have a very good gloss finish to get the best results. the colour of the base coat is debatable.
im sticking to acrylics for the time being and probably wont be trying alclad II yet.

perhaps Gamblor can show us the effect of Kosutte Ginsan with automotive paints and enamels when he gets the chance?

[Doubledealer]

im using an airbush with tamiya acrylic gloss paints and thinning with methylated spirits. results are still shiny.

let me know if using tamiya thinners produce a better result, otherwise im sticking to methylated spirits cos they are a hell of a lot cheaper and are also really great for cleaning the airbrush afterwards.

Will do. After having a couple of lengthy chats with the (very helpful) staff in the two CBD hobby stores I stuck to my guns and went with the enamels. From a health and safety POV I'll have to be more cautious (have a 3M half face respirator on its way w/P100 Niosh approved filters/carts), but it sounds like it'll be worth the effort. Apaprently the enamels dry a lot harder, produce a higher shine (both stores recommended using enamels for the higher gloss) and are less likely the 'gunk up' an airbrush/easier to clean. I bought a cheap plastic car model so I'll prep it, spray it and take some photo's in due course. Still waiting on the Kosutte Gin-San to arrive from Asia so photo's with that'll have to wait a while.

Paints being used:
-Mr Hobby Mr. White Surfacer 1000
-Tamiya X-1 Enamel Gloss Black
-Tamiya X-20 Enamel Paint Thinner (will use 1:1 ratio of paint/thinner)

Edit: Changed the primer used...Seems one of the staff isn't as knowledgable as I first thought and sold me a substance used to dull gloss paint, instead describing it to me as a primer. :eek: I think I'll be going to the other place in future.

[Doubledealer]

Sorry for the poor quality/focus (shot was taken from my phone) but here is a pic after applying:

1. 2 X coats of Mr Hobby Mr White Surfacer 1000
2. 4 X dry mist coats of Tamiya Enamel Gloss black mixed 2:1 paint/thinner (didn't need as much thinner to achieve the 'milk-like' consistency as I first thought)
3. 4 X wet coats of Tamiya Enamel Gloss black

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu332/Doubledealer_83/Transformers/blackglossenameltrial1.jpg

It's nice & shiny already but after I wait a week for the paint to properly cure I might also buff it up with a polishing kit. Really hope the Kosutte Gin-San arrives this week...

[gamblor916]

Is that a 1980 'vette? Looks good in any case. Buffing the paint after it cures in a week or two is a good idea too.

[Doubledealer]

Is that a 1980 'vette? Looks good in any case. Buffing the paint after it cures in a week or two is a good idea too.

Thanks Gambor. :) It's definitely a Corvette, as to whether it's from the 80's or not, I couldn't tell you (threw away the box, lol). What I find amazing with the airbrush is that despite it applying a coat of paint that looks so wet, it's dry to touch/not tacky after about 20 minutes. Is that the same story when using acryclics?

[gamblor916]

Not sure about acrylics, haven't used them for about 10 years. Also they stay a bit soft even after weeks of curing. Enamels and lacquers are better in that they harden up and you can polish them.

[Doubledealer]

Can you recommend a good method for the buffing? I have a couple of unused silver polishing cloths on my workbench, do you think using one of them would be enough or is it worth buying one of those Tamiya kits with the bottles or similar?

[gamblor916]

Chrome really shows off the flaws so I'd go for a paste or liquid compound after you get rid of dust and imperfections with 1000-1200 wet and dry paper.
This is the stuff I use (http://www.hlj.com/product/FNS55937) but there's good stuff from Tamiya, Hasegawa and others. Just search for compound or polish.

[Doubledealer]

Chrome really shows off the flaws so I'd go for a paste or liquid compound after you get rid of dust and imperfections with 1000-1200 wet and dry paper.
This is the stuff I use (http://www.hlj.com/product/FNS55937) but there's good stuff from Tamiya, Hasegawa and others. Just search for compound or polish.

Thanks for the tips, Gamblor. I'm always confused when people mention wet and dry paper though...I've got 1000 grit Tamiya sandpaper, so if I use this on the bonnet while under cold running water is that the same thing or is it special wet only paper you're talking about? Would love to have that cleared up!

I will investigate this compound & polish of which you speak. :) Thanks again mate.

[gamblor916]

Basically if it doesn't fall apart when wet then you can use it with water :)
I pick mine up from the local auto supplies store. It should be very easy to find.
I just sand stuff under a dripping tap to wash away all the particles.

[Doubledealer]

Basically if it doesn't fall apart when wet then you can use it with water :)
I pick mine up from the local auto supplies store. It should be very easy to find.
I just sand stuff under a dripping tap to wash away all the particles.

So just to clarify, you could do the following and end up with a nice shiny surface?

1. Spray final wet coat of gloss enamel paint and leave plastic to cure for a week
2. While under running cold water, sand the painted plastic with 1000 grit wet/dry paper (any technique required in terms of how you sand?)
3. Buff back to a high shine with polishing kit (like the one you've linked to)

That sound about right? :p

[gamblor916]

That sounds good. The only point I would make is to use the paper just to get rid of any dust and irregularities. You wouldn't want to put more scratches on your finish (and require more work to get rid of them).

[Doubledealer]

That sounds good. The only point I would make is to use the paper just to get rid of any dust and irregularities. You wouldn't want to put more scratches on your finish (and require more work to get rid of them).

Ahh, wise words indeed. I'm glad I asked as I would have put some elbow grease into it. :p Well, my hobby goodies inc. the Kosutte Gin-San arrived this morning so I can go ahead as planned and try it out on Sunday (paint will have cured by then). Will post pics then!

[Doubledealer]

It's alive! It's aliiiiiiiiiiive! My G1 Galvatron is now fully operational once more. :D

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu332/Doubledealer_83/Transformers/Galvatronfinal.jpg

[bruticus]

nice results dude. he looks like brand new!!!

what colour base coat did you end up using?
did you go with the lacquer, enamel, or the acrylic paint?
did you apply 10 coats like you did with the corvette?

[Doubledealer]

nice results dude. he looks like brand new!!!

what colour base coat did you end up using?
did you go with the lacquer, enamel, or the acrylic paint?
did you apply 10 coats like you did with the corvette?

Thanks mate, a lot of time and effort went into it but it was so worth it and I learnt a lot! I think the most important thing is to never rush - if you've got patience then you've won half the battle. Oh, and drinking cider + airbrushing is not a good idea I discovered (good recipe for overspraying :p).

In answer to your questions:
a) Tamiya X-1 Black (Gloss)
b) Enamel
c) Yes, 10 coats of paint all up including the 2 layers of primer.

After the paint was left to cure for a week I buffed the Gin-San into it with a $10 Dremel felt polishing wheely thing from Bunnings.

[gamblor916]

Nice work, it looks great!

[Doubledealer]

Nice work, it looks great!

Thanks for the compliment Gamblor, much appreciated. :)

[gamblor916]

I've just tried out applying the KGS for a quick test and it looks pretty good. I've found that it's a touch on the dark side and the base coat has to be absolutely perfect though.

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/1397/ksgp1012269.jpg

[sideswipes brother]

How does the KGS work? I understand its a powder? How the hell do you get such a pretty finish from powder?

[gamblor916]

Not sure about the magical alchemy that goes on but it's a very fine powder that sticks to everything and if you're careless it goes everywhere.
It has to be put on a glossy dark base though I might try some tests with lighter colours.
First apply it all over with a rag then buff it to a shine. Hard bit is actually preparing the paint to a satisfactory level. Applying KGS is the easy bit.