OMG1Quote:
Originally Posted by gamblor916
I’m breaking out my Warhammer guys and I’m gonna customise
Printable View
OMG1Quote:
Originally Posted by gamblor916
I’m breaking out my Warhammer guys and I’m gonna customise
Thanks to Tober for printing some things for me. Here's a direct comparison between Shapeways (left) and the Anycubic Photon resin printer (right).
In some areas notably the ribbing on the side and the logo area top of the boot the resin printer is much better. However fore and aft the shapeways print is superior. Also with the resin printer the object requires supporting frames so the nubs have to be placed carefully and afterwards cleaned off the print. You can see where they were placed on the back and sole of the boot. Both prints just have a coat of gray primer to highlight the surface impressions.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...154ed2eb_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6b2fae39_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b1347814_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0e8b70d3_o.jpg
Removing supports is just about always going to be tricky.
All in all, it's not terrible. :/
I can see where the resin printer would excel. Things like figures and organic shapes.
Front and back of the shapeways print plus the sides of your resin print would be the best result. The ribbing on the side I was really impressed with.
These are my first two successful models uploaded to Shapeways:
https://i.imgur.com/l2bcOuul.png
This is what happened when I cut the supports off from my Shapeways dual rifle set:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tober
https://i.imgur.com/l87hTmZl.jpg
And it's the not the first time it's happened with a Shapeways item.
I am curious why the inside is white and the outside is red.
Why isn't it red all the way through? :confused:
I'm using FreeCad to build my 3D objects.
It's a bit complicated at times, but I think I've gotten good enough at the program to design 3D printable objects.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamblor916
Very interesting comparison, I'm curious just how small that boot is?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tober
I also wonder if they were printed in the same orientation, that would produce different results on different surfaces as well.
Thats most interesting, I'm guessing that the colour is a dye. what material are you printing in?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tilarta
Theoretically any 3D printing/Additive manufacturing method is suited to organic shapes, it's the greatest strength of the technologyQuote:
Originally Posted by gamblor916
From the Shapeways materials page it states that it's printed then dyed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tilarta
Not very big. The pics with the coin show somewhat an indication of size. I think it's a trade off as to what side is going to be more detailed plus the fact that supports are also necessary. I think that some clever tree design is required.Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraMarginal
Also hard surfaces. 90 degrees means 90 degrees and flat is flat, print layers notwithstanding.Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraMarginal
Oh, those pictures there, that I somehow didn't see. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by gamblor916
OK, either way that's an impressive print.
That one was printed in Red Processed Versatile Plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraMarginal
I've just looked up their materials list, it's so much more complex than it used to be. Most impressive
Has anyone printed or designed any cool tf stuff lately?
I'm thinking of maybe designing a pretender shell template for small tf with an inert storage mode,
Cassettes and such
I design TF stuff all the time.
Some designs take longer then others to reach final print ready status, depending on the complexity of the design I am creating.
In the Pretender theme, this is one of my recent creations:
https://i.imgur.com/2ILZT27l.jpg
Bumblebee's Pretender Rifle reforged for his Earthrise toy.
Also considering making his Pretender Cannon at some point.
Unfortunately, because Hasbro did not include a vehicle mode socket, he can only use this weapon in mechanoid mode.
I could probably fix that by creating a socket adaptor.
Out of curiosity, I was thinking about designing a Pretender shell for Bumblebee, just to see if I could wrap one around his new toy.
I've had my Up Box for a number of years now.i mostly print props from movies, gifts for people and items for my brother's 40k army such as movement trays. My current project is the white whale from Mastodon's album Leviathan. I muck around with tinkercad and netfabb a bit, but don't have much experience with other software.
So here I go into the world of resin 3d printing. I've dialled in almost perfect settings and started some test prints. I'd say it was a success with 1 failure and 1 user error with inverted faces on a model. Those 4 little squares are the base of footpegs that broke off and the other half of chain disappeared completely.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...37bfceb2_b.jpg
Looks good! Will you try printing the bike boots?
Yeah it would be a good comparison to earlier prints. One thing though it really is a messy business cleaning the stuff.
Here are some of my recentish prints.
Spinal cord tealight holder:
https://i.imgur.com/1I6XUxI.jpg
Baby Yoda
https://i.imgur.com/hTHCOqV.jpeg
Sakai Clan mask from Ghost of Tsushima
https://i.imgur.com/YaMD5cT.jpeg
Evangelion Unit 02 Progressive knife
https://i.imgur.com/z8dR6O8.jpg
I really enjoy priming and sanding down my prints before painting.
All awesome. I really need to start using my printer.
@Dkaris are they designed by you or do you use people's print designs? I'm just wondering how hard it is to make my own stuff. My dad does alot of printing, and that spine looks damn awesome too
Well, in general, the quality of the print depends on two basic factors, your ability to create a model in 3D and the ability of your printer to print in fine detail.
I think there are limits though, like if the wall thickness isn't enough, then this happens:
https://i.imgur.com/jOQS2WHl.png
I bought a used Micromaster Tracer who didn't come with a rotor, so attempted to make one, only to discover the printer couldn't handle the miniature detail required for the part.
These ones are other peoples. I can provide the links to the stl files if you like. I have very little CAD software, I use tinkercad a lot to modify existing designs to my own liking. For example I took the stl of a character from a game called warframe, deleted the body, scaled the head down and added a hole so that I could fit it on a lego minifigure. Just little stuff like that. I don't have the time or the knowledge for a lot of modelling. I have drawn some stuff, like patterns, converted them to svg then converted that to 3d files which is a bit of fun when it all comes together.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1
I'd suggest tinkercad for a few reasons, 1. its free. 2. its online so you can access your stuff from anywhere. 3. you can import existing models and muck around with them, or create your own stuff with basic geometric shapes etc.
With parts that small I'd make the spacer and the centre of the rotor a solid piece and drill them out afterwards
I use FreeCad to do my modelling.
But you will need a second software, Ultmaker.
This translates the STL model into a file format your 3D printer will understand.
Both these softwares are free2download and use.
Cheers for the advice. I don't have alot of time to mess around with designing too but I'll see what I can do.
3D Printing chocolate will soon be a thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8S-usumuaWo
Doing some printing. Just mucking around mostly. But I did a test of a weapon upgrade for WFC Ratbat, and cannons for Rotorstorm. So many things I've tagged as wanting to try out. Need some fine and small files to clean up the prints
What material did you print with?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1
I had no idea until I looked at the boxes of filament my dad gave me hahah, but PLA. The guns so far came out well I reckon. Just needs some cleaning up and sanding and painting. Was only testing but might actually run with these as his weapons.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkaris
I print in ABS, I've found that the cans of auto primer you get from supercheap auto are really worth it. give the model a spray, it will fill in any lines between layers and make sanding easier. I normally prime with it, sand, prime sand etc until I'm happy with the outcome. wood putty is also worth trying, you can water it down a bit and paint it on then sand it back.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1
Cabbot's Cabothane clear is also handy for filling in layer linesQuote:
Originally Posted by Dkaris
I'll check it out. Can you sand and prime it?Quote:
Originally Posted by SMHFConvoy
You're supposed to sand the surface first and then apply the polyurethane, let it dry, prime, sand where you need to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkaris
This is the video I saw it on
Thanks for the link. Just wondering if you use the oil based or water based version?Quote:
Originally Posted by SMHFConvoy
Water basedQuote:
Originally Posted by Dkaris
Printed on my Elegoo Saturn. I'm never going back to Shapeways ever again. 10c coin for scale.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8467af90_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...af5d02d1_b.jpg
Because Shapeways was incapable of producing a hollow enclosed object, I had to print them myself:
https://i.imgur.com/9rmjZZnl.png
It wasn't perfect, but this is the first time I actually got a useable object from my print.
Not bad for an entry level printer, normally it's just for size checking.
Also working on a hand mod for Apeface so he can hold 5mm post weapons in his ape mode:
https://i.imgur.com/2Rmhr6pl.png
This one's still not finished, there are some clearance issues with his ape mode forearms.
But his hands function as I intended.
I'm looking to upgrade to a better 3D printer now, does anyone have any recommendations?
Ideally I'd like a tricolor printer, but the last one I tried was defective (Geeetech A10T), so are there other quality tricolor printers?
And given my negative experience with the A10T, I'd prefer a factory assembled non-Chinese printer.
Australia preferably, but would take American or Japan, as long as it's guaranteed to be reliable.
But I don't think we have Australian made 3D printers yet, so that might be an unrealistic expectation.
Halfway through a 13 hour print I knock the power brick loose. There goes a full bed of prints.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...12c4424e_o.jpg
Oh ouch. That is painful. What are you making though?
Various parts, model parts, mech parts. Even though I hate the clean up, having a flex plate makes things a lot easier.
Printed some parts to turn a Bandai clone into animated Captain Rex.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2db35b5c_o.jpg
Cool! How have you found your printer?