Hi Kup, did you have to take all the screws out to remove his large 'wings' for treatment?
I have just started on a green scourge today treating one of the leg guard parts, hes not as green as yours but still green! :D
Thanks
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O M G !
That pic above is amazing!
Those Scourge & Slugslinger progress pics are way cool.
Question for you guys and gals though. I just got myself a Triggerhappy, he was pristine looking in the ebay auction, but the guy left him near the window while the auction was underway and now he is a bit yellowed on the gray parts. Major bummer dude.
Unfortunately the grey parts on THappy are
A) connected via a number of pins, which will be hard to remove
B) Have the bronze paint applications on the thrusters, which I doubt will fair well if I immerse the parts in H2O2.
So, has anyone got ideas? I think I remember reading that the guys who came up with this also tried making a paste form of H2O2. Has anyone tried this?
Just confirming rubsigns stop working once they have been in H202? Any one any ideas how to protect them?
I was assuming that the issues you mentioned were only encountered if the parts are submersed for a long time, because the examples you guys are using are really badly yellowed. Mine is just a bit yellowed, so I was hoping the issues you had with Slugslinger could be avoided.
No, the part was submerged for an appropriate amount of time. The day before there was still some yellowing on the plastic.
I had a 1987 Aimless targemaster for just a few days and he reacted badly to the H2O2 too.
1987 toys simply don't work well with H2O2 in liquid form, I have never tried the paste with them.
Sorry if this has been answered before but does anyone know how chrome paint and clear plastic are affected by H202?
Very badly, you lose all your chrome I believe and the clear plastic becomes a smokie mess:(
Woah, thanks for the heads up mate. I might try to seal the chrome part (which I can't remove) I need to bathe in H202 in Tamiya modelling tape and see how that goes. If it seeps through I'll just have to go to more effort and use Kosutte Gin-San. :p
Hey Kup, I read that for clear plastics you can actually restore them by wet/sanding them then buffing the part using toothpaste and a wet t-shirt. Apparently it's a slow process, you have to hold the part under running cold water while you sand going from 600 to 2000 grit sandpaper. Finally, to get the transparency back you use a mild abrasive (thus the toothpaste, the 'whitening' stuff is better apparently) and buff the hell out of it using the wet t-shirt. I'm going to attempt this soon to fix up some scratched G1 car screens (moving to finer grades of snadpaper only when the scratches are completely gone). I'll write a more detailed guide with pictures assuming it works.
can you please send us a site to where you heard this from?
ive polished metal before by using that technique (600 grit to 2000 grit or finer with different cross strokes). It polished up really well to a mirror finish, but from experience, it took quite a bit off the metal and any uneven strokes/pressure will cause uneven abrasion.
so if you were attempting that technique on a thin plastic G1 car windshield then i doubt it will stand up to that method.
how deep are your scratches/smokiness?? if they aren't too deep, perhaps you can try polishing compound (http://www.hlj.com/product/FNS55937)
and then maybe toothpaste or a polishing cloth?
i haven't tried it yet but it should be less damaging than sandpaper?
http://themodelmakersresource.co.uk/...rticle010.html
Hmm, after hearing your experience with the polished metal I think you're probably right, the already thin G1 car windshield would most likely become paper thin or worse.
I wouldn't say the scratches are particularly deep. They're more like frenzied surface scratches, kind of like the underside of a CD that hasn't been cared for all that well. Thanks for the HLJ link, I might have to try the polishing compound out sometime!
Well heres my first attempt at using H2O2, the jar was in the sun for 3 1/2 hours. Pretty good but I'm still at the same level I was 20 years ago for applying stickers :o
Before
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/3594/sdc13580.th.jpg
After
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/5430/sdc13709.th.jpg
Comparison with another taiwan scourge - repo decepticon logos arn't as purple as the originals.
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9...c13711w.th.jpg
it's looking very good!
Hmm maybe '87 toys can safely be whitened, provided they aren't super yellowed. Or is this an '86 figure?
^^Found the posts I was talking about. Also Kup said i was specifically a problem with '87 figures - Scourge is either '86 (original version) or '87 (targetmaster version), which is why I was wondering what version this Scourge was.Quote:
Originally Posted by kup
Oh, only just realised SC said this was TM Scourge.
So maybe I will have a shot at restoring my TriggerHappy figure - which is also an '87 figure and has only light yellowing.
I can't dismantle him though, so rather than dunking him in H2O2, I'm going to try to make the H2O2 in paste form. Not sure if anyone else on the boards has tried this yet. I'll let you know how it goes.
I've used that! On my toys, I mean. :p It seems to do the same job with whitening, the only issue I had was that I found part of the toy was slightly warped afterwards, but I'm not sure if that was the case beforehand and I just hadn't noticed or if it was a side-effect of one of the other ingredients in the creme.
That's right. All 1987 'master figures I tested including the main character and Targetmaster have proven not to react well to H2O2. Although I have never tried restoring Headmasters, Eruntalon's Fort Max reacted badly to it so this may also include the '87 Headmasters range.
I have personally tried to restore two 'greened' Targetmaster Scourges. They have certainly cleared up very well to an acceptable color but at the same time I noticed that some very lite 'spotting' developed around the edges and curves of the wing piece and some other lite 'stains' on the surface. However it is very lite and not very noticeable (camera wouldn't pick it up) and certainly overwhelmingly better than the 'green'.
On the other hand the yellowed scourge which you have seen me restoring on this thread is actually a 1986 release and this has exhibited no ill reactions whatsoever. The color restored nicely and evenly throughout the surface.
As strange as this may be, I have only encountered this bad reactions to H2O2 on 1987 figures. I have tried it on 1988 and 1989 figures with no bad effect. 1984-1986 figures also respond well to it.
None now :)
* I accidentally clicked on Edit instead of reply, that is why you have a 'last edited by kup' on your post. Sorry about that :o.
My restoration skills basically come down to applying repro stickers and that's about it :o I would be waaaay too stressed out dunking a 20+ year old toy in a corrosive liquid bath. I envy those that have the skills (and balls) to do this.
I'm going to be retro-brighting the remainder of my yellowed fort max as I cannot warrant spending any more money on copious amounts of H202.
Attached is the Xantham Gum, Glycerin, and H202 I picked up today. Xantham Gum and Glycerin were picked up at a Health Food Store. I now need some Oxy Action laundry powder.
Note to everyone who still hasn't made some of this goop: Mix the Xantham Gum and H202 together first in small amounts so that all of the Xantham Gum powder dissolves. Once that is done add the Glycerin, because as soon as that enters the mixture it wants to turn into a soapy gelatinous mess and the Xantham Gum will act like lumpy porridge if not dissolved properly.
Erm dunno if it's been asked, too lazy to backtrack the posts, but does does it (H2O2) have a bad effect on clear, yellowed plastic? will it loose it's clarity and make it foggy?
cool... cant wait to see how well it will work for you.
i have some yellowed TFs that i want to try the paste with cos they are too hard to disassemble without damaging but i have not been able to find the Xanthum gum and Glycerin yet.
perhaps you can try on some scrap clear plastic to be sure first?
@ Bruticus , cheers!
@ Eruntalon - update us with measurements for each component yeah? :)