I picked up some of the stuff on the weekend, but I haven't had the chance to test it out on anything yet. I should do this Saturday.
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I picked up some of the stuff on the weekend, but I haven't had the chance to test it out on anything yet. I should do this Saturday.
I got my Slugslinger in the mail last week and he's in surprisingly good condition. Still, if you guys are gona toy around with a yellowed junker I'm still very eager to see the outcome, given the excellent results on Scourge/Blurr/Getaway.
After reading through this thread I know that liquid Hydrogen Peroxide and 1987 TM's don't mix. So I'm attempting to "restore" a somewhat "junker" Triggerhappy with Creme Peroxide 12% and will let everyone know how he goes.
I also have access to 50% Peroxide at work so if need be I can try a short bath for comparisons sake. I'm thinking that maybe a shorter bath with a higher concentration might be ok. I can also dilute it down to try a longer bath at a lower concentration on a Slugslinger I have here somewhere.
Hopefully I can contribute something to this thread :)
Starting Thursday Priceline have 30-50% off hair dyes so you could pick up a bottle at a cheaper price.
Hi guys,
Just got my Jazz today, and made me sad to see his white bits yellowed (his shoulders/fenders, spoilers, and doors (which will be a b*tch to do as it has the #4 sticker on them and I'll have to either buy new doors or order reprostickers (which I'm not keen to do)...). Before I do anything, I need to know if there has been any measure of success with whitening a Jazz or something similar from the same era...I've looked back a bit, but couldn't find much. Help a brother out here?
The only G1 toys known to react badly to H2O2 are 1987 toys. Jazz in 1984 and although I can't sat 100% that it will work, I am pretty confident that it would.
Try it and see what happens, you may not have much to loose and a lot to gain. You need to disassemble him and try one of the pieces, then compare it to the others. If you see an improvement, go with the rest.
I had a go using 12% creme peroxide on First Aid today. He has come out whiter - you can tell which section has had more sun than the other, so I will have to rotate him next time.
After an accident cleaning some gunk off him I can also attest to the effectiveness of Diggers isopropyl alcohol at removing paint :(
might have to do some taping of the painted parts before application...u done any '84 era figures?Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketales
This thread has been my best resource so far in learning how to de-yellow my figures so I decided to register and ask a question before I try anything. I have a set of Technobots thats starting to yellow, but they are sadly 1987 stamped. Has anyone figured out a way to whiten the 1987 figures without damaging the plastic or am I basically screwed?
Do you have something to test it on? I did my 87 Hunn-Grrr the other day. Most of it worked but the hinge that holds the tail on actually turned more yellow.
I've got Groove covered in peroxide sitting out in the sun in my work's front garden... hey, if I'm stuck here all day I may as well do something useful :D
It will be interesting to know if non Headmaster/Targetmaster toys from 1987 are more compatible with the H2O2.
I have tried at least one toy from 1984, 85, 86, 88 and 89 toys with varied success. Only the 1987 TM/HM toys I can confirm to be incompatible with the liquid form of H2O2.
I'll be testing my Slugslinger and Triggerhappy tomorrow, hopefully there will be some sun for it to work.
Will post some some before and after pics tomorrow when I get started on it. I am interested to see what happens.
I'm going down a slightly different road and trying retrobright on a
USS Flagg. Once I've bought glycerine, xanthan gum and oxy-action washing power in a few weeks (picked up the H2O2 today), I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Figure it should be handy in terms of the big projects that some of us might have.
I've been tempted to try this.
I've had my teeth professionally whitened, the expensive (and painful, it really burned) way.
I have touch-up paste, which is much stronger than your store stuff.
I've been tempted to see how well that works, and when I go to the dentist next to get it redone, to get a figure part done at the same time, to test both methods.
Testing it out on Slugslinger, hopefully there is enough sun to actually do anything.
Early testing seems to be going well. Sadly the sun was not around for long enough to do a full test, but it looks promising.
Sadly I can't give any pictures or more result until next weekend when I am off. Saturday morning I will get up and do it right away and hope that there is sun about :p
I had it outside for maybe 3 hours with this stuff on, and there is a change in the discolouring, without any real damage to the plastic that I can see. It still looks as shiny as the discoloured parts. So maybe this could work? Further testing needs to happen before I can give a clearer analysis. (also have to pick up a brush to apply it better)
Sit tight, more to come next weekend.
Gave Groove his time in the sun today (about five hours) with creme peroxide, with good results.
The amount of whitening seems to be dependent on the amount applied, as his de-colouring isn't consistent. At this stage I'd say you can't put enough of the stuff on.
Alas we have now been forecast 4-5 days of rain.
im waiting for some good sun to do my groove :(Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketales
any chance you can post some before and after pics for us?Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketales
cool.. very interested to see how your tests turn out. pls keep us posted with pics.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1
where the heck do you get glycerine and xanthan gum?Quote:
Originally Posted by bowspearer
i've been looking for those two ingredients to make my own retr0brite for ages now but have had no luck in finding them.
i opted out for the 12%/40vol peroxide cream from price attack at $10 per bottle for 950ml. it seemed cheaper and lot less less troublesome than H202 + glycerine + xanthan gum + oxy-action washing power. isnt it?
No before pics but here's some after shots
http://i54.tinypic.com/mj8jue.jpg
http://i56.tinypic.com/1zd6aae.jpg
These were yellow/brown spares... I'm thinking of swapping them into the main collection now.
Here's a before shot of Inferno's ladder. You should be able to see a clear line between the white and yellowing plastic
http://i51.tinypic.com/30ib03b.jpg
...and here's the ladder after. Much, much better.. so much so that I couldn't tell which side I had originally photographed! It's a bit patchy, so I suppose being immersed in a liquid would overcome that.
http://i52.tinypic.com/ztdfkh.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/33fcftf.jpg
I also gave junker/spare Drag Strip and Breakdown a go. Breakdown does look a bit creamy but I couldn't tell any dfference with Drag Strip (altho it wasn't bad to begin with).
I'e also noticed a couple of patches of dead/white skin on the tips of my forefingers, so be careful!
Yeah I had Joker hands when I was doing it. They all look great. I should give my Firstaid a go too :)Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketales
ChemistsQuote:
Originally Posted by bruticus
health food shopQuote:
Originally Posted by bruticus
Possibly, but I'm restoring a GIJOE USS flagg, so it's too big for liquid.Quote:
Originally Posted by bruticus
Yeah, I've already bought a set of rubber gloves for when I mix up retrobright and apply it, as that's something the wiki warns you about with handling hydrogen peroxide.Quote:
Originally Posted by snaketales
huh? i was referring to the peroxide "cream" (not the liquid H202 bath method). Cos the peroxide "cream" from price attack should essentially be the same as retr0brite paste, except this is already premade.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowspearer
anyways, interested to see how you fair with the USS flagg whichever way you end up going.
Snaketales - Man thats one yellowed ladder. glad to see it revitalised so much! also, were the wheels on firstaid rusty before you treated it with peroxide?
Can anyone tell me if the creme peroxide affects stickers at all?
Yeah, the wheels were like that when I got hold of that figure. The rusting wasn't from the creme peroxide, if that's what you're worried about.Quote:
Originally Posted by bruticus
Another thing I can test for you tomorrow. I assume it will, but I will see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Prime
Well I have had some success with this miracle cream. Works fairly well on Slugslinger without any real damage to the plastic. I left them out in the sun for 3 hours, cleaned them off and reapplied for another 1 and half hours. Sunlight started to fade.
Before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...L1/Before1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...L1/Before2.jpg
After
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...EL1/After1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...EL1/After2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...EL1/After3.jpg
What you can maybe see in the last picture is there is some streaking on the plastic, which could be from not applying the cream evenly. I used a brush. I am going to test using a sponge to try apply evenly onto another piece to test.
The purple on the sticker was affected, but strangely not the rest of it.
I think the grey plastic worked better because I caked on the cream more thickly than on the blue bit. All things I will look into more detail tomorrow.
One other fun fact that we could use this cream for is rusted screws/metal. The screw in the foot seemed to clear up using it. Pity I didn't take photos of that before I did it. Another thing to test tomorrow.
So testing for tomorrow will be:
- more on the foot to see if I can make it lighter still, it was pretty bad to begin with
- test another blue piece
- put some on a rusted screw to see those effects better
- use a sponge to apply cream and more thicker
- earlier to get a better start on testing for more light
Good to see it worked great ok 1AZRAEL1
I tested the Creme Peroxide on another '87 Transformer, Rippersnapper. I didn't take any photos but he came up great. No issues at all.
I use a thick decent paintbrush and coat it on nice and evenly. No issues with applying it on his stickers either.
Up for test next is '90's "reissue" Classics First Aid.
I did an aerialbot Slingshot nosecone and two of my three original Transformers toys - Fireflight and Blades - today and they came up great with no problems.
I was careful around the stickers but noticed when I was wiping the creme off the red came off the Autobot symbols on Fireflight's wings. These are the original stickers so it may well just have been age. I didn't notice any appreciable change to the other stickers (altho they are 20+ years old and a bit tatty to begin with).
Stickers are a funny thing. Best avoid getting any on them I'd say.
A thicker application worked better. No streaks on the blue parts at all. It is still a deeper blue when compared to a non yellowed part, but it looks much better than a greeney blue. I will put more on it next weekend to see if I can lighten it further.
The grey foot is getting lighter still, and is near bringing it back to it's original colour. Again, more coating next weekend.
The screw is still rusted, but it did remove some of the rusting.
But great news is the fact it is not destroying the plastic like H2O2 does. Hardest part will be trying to do it evenly when you have to do more than one coat. But the great thing is it takes a few hours, so you can wipe it off and check it every so often, and reapply the cream.
Hey dude, just out of curiosity; Do you think that if you were to put the solution into a spray bottle that that would give you a more even coat than using a paint brush?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1
Possible. I can give that a shot next week. Just as long as I put a thick coat all over, doesn't have to be perfect, just as long as it all will be well covered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hursticon
Yeah, I just thought that if you were able to spray it on, that it would give you a more even and consistent spread than having to try and do it with a paint brush - Fingers crossed for you anyway man. ;):)Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1
what about mixing the cream with the bottled stuff to give a stronger solution thats what ive been thinking of doing
Good thought, but I think the liquid seems to have an adverse effect on the 87 Targetmasters, but the cream seems to work well. Maybe I could pick up a stronger cream, pretty sure I saw one that was stronger.
Here's a couple of my before and after shots, both featuring 1987 Transformers.
Doubledealer's lower missile half.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...r/IMG_1493.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...r/IMG_1494.jpg
After
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...r/IMG_1499.jpg
Weirdwolf :)
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...r/IMG_1484.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...r/IMG_1483.jpg
After
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...r/IMG_1500.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...r/IMG_1501.jpg
*does a crazy coles TV ad.. Ta da*
I forgot to add, that was using 12% Creme Peroxide *thumbs up*
That Weirdwolf looks fantastic!
Looks like we may have a proven solution for 1987 yellowed toys! To be sure, it would be good if we could do something like a Slugslinger who is very prone to yellowing and highly negative reacting when it comes to liquid H2O2.
That's where the foot and blue parts I have been working on have come from.Quote:
Originally Posted by kup
The blue is somewhat darker than the normal blue, and the grey is still slightly yellowed. They need another treatment to see if I can get them closer to perfect. But so far so good. I haven't taken an shots of the next phase of treatment yet. I will be doing more this weekend.