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Thread: Spray Paints?

  1. #21
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    Hey I was in eckersleys today and they had liquitex spray paints (professional spray paints) liquitex has a good rep, although I don't think I've seen many toy customisers use it. You buy the cans and the nozzles separately. The nozzles are different sizes, sorry didn't get any prices.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iriorne View Post
    What do you use to clean up Long Life? Sounds like you're getting good results.
    Windex (or any ammonia product)... stuffed application once and just bathed the part in Windex then scrubbed with a toothbrush (though not advisable if it's applied over acrylics or vacuum metalised parts (a TF's chrome) - it's my stripper of choice for those too). I've never sprayed it (though it does work for cleaning up brushes).

    When I use Long Life, I dip the part in it then set aside. Its self levelling and usually drains off if you set it on tissue paper or similar to dry... so if you've disassembled a TF this may be an option to coat each part?

  3. #23
    Iriorne is offline Rank 6 - Dedicated Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamblor916 View Post
    [...] I use lacquers so if you mix and match paints you're going to have problems. [...]
    Ah, thought that might be the case. I like Tamiya's basic lacquer primer but prefer to paint with acrylics because they're easy to clean and airbrush well over quite a wide range of pressures and paint/thinner ratios.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stug
    Windex (or any ammonia product) [...]
    Cool, sounds pretty much the same as the fabled Future floor polish. Might give it a try next time - Bunnings sells it $10 a big bottle which beats $4 for 10 mL of Tamiya clear.

    Quote Originally Posted by SMHFConvoy
    liquitex spray paints [...] sorry didn't get any prices.
    The website has them at $20 a can - pricey but the pigments should be artisan quality. I can't find any info on their use in scale modelling, but liquitex suggest it works well for graffiti art, so I suspect it might be pretty thick?

  4. #24
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    There was a sample of how the paint looked sprayed on different materials. The plastic looked OK but it could be only one coat

  5. #25
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    Went and had a look around

    Masters had Plasti-kote Super Spray & Bunnings had White Knight Squirts has anyone tried using any of these?

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohmic12 View Post
    Went and had a look around

    Masters had Plasti-kote Super Spray & Bunnings had White Knight Squirts has anyone tried using any of these?
    i used white knight clear acrylic satin...is really good....the gloss one too thick !

  7. #27
    Iriorne is offline Rank 6 - Dedicated Member
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    I've not used either, but White Knight Squirts seems pretty popular for war gaming miniatures: http://www.wargamerau.com/forum/lofi...php/t9737.html

    Plasti-kote could be ok too. The suggestion is to sit the can in some warm water first to get a finer spray, and you may need to overcoat with clear first if you're adding more paint or a wash.
    http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum...st/265523.page

  8. #28
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    For Tamiya sprays, how does the PS series work on ABS plastic? Not a tf project but currently, I'm building a 1/144 meteor strike and want to paint the base Lame Flake (PS49?). Is PS acrylic?

  9. #29
    Iriorne is offline Rank 6 - Dedicated Member
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    Seems like it might be a bad idea.

    Tamiya's own web site says the PS series are designed for use on transparent polycarbonate shells for R/C cars and should not be used on plastic models (styrene).

    source

    Someone else asked the same question on an R/C website and got the following answers:

    The Tamiya "PS" series paints (polycarbonate series) etches into the plastic
    and leaves a dull rough surface. This paint appears to be glossy only when
    seen through the outside of the clear polycarbonate. The etching process
    allows it to remain firmly attached to RC car body as it flexes whereas
    Lacquers and enamels simply crack and peel off.
    The PS paint is also used on metal models and then oversprayed with a clear
    or matt coat.
    PS may be used on plastic models which have been prepared with Tamiya Primer
    or Preparacote.
    Better to stick with the Tamiya "TS" series which is a hard lacquer (similar
    to Topflite Lustercote) and fuel proof - leave to dry thoroughly between
    coats and before exposure to fuel.
    Polycarbonate is a thermoplastic or "plastic." I believe they are
    refering to polystyrene models which are really high impact or rubber
    modified polystyrene plastics. ABS is acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene
    plastics and it is basically high impact polystyrene with a third
    monomer thrown in for thermal and chemical resistance, among other
    properties. I'm not sure of the solvent used in the "polycarbonate"
    paint, but would guess if it attacks polystyrene, it's not going to be
    great for ABS parts.
    source

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