i've tried to do that but it never seems to work for me. is there a trick to it or am i doing something wrong?
i've tried to do that but it never seems to work for me. is there a trick to it or am i doing something wrong?
For starters the model should have a gloss coat then apply wash with a fine brush into all the recesses. Tamiya, Vallejo, MIG and others all have nice product.
When dry use a cotton bud dipped in enamel thinners to wipe off excess.
Key points would be to make sure the surface is glossy and less is more.
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thanks for the tips dude. i'll get some of that stuff later this week.
Nice looking speeder! I just saw FineMolds are doing a limited reissue of the 1/72 Millennium Falcon... very tempting.
irondude: The gloss coat will also help hide the excess decal film as well. Over coat with gloss to seal the decals, then apply an oil wash.
You can use any artists oils (general advice is artist grade for finer pigments) and thin it down with white spirits to the consistency of dirty thinner. Greys or browns are best, avoid black. Apply with a fine brush to panel lines and detail areas and clean up the excess with a cotton swab. Avoid the temptation to touch it for a while as the oil paints can take some time to dry fully.
Another weathering tip is to grind artists chalk pastels into a powder and apply with a brush to simulate soot and blast marks. Pastels go on best over a matte coat and have a tendency to rub off unless protected with another over coat.
When applying or cleaning up weathering, wipe in the direction of the airflow for a more realistic look.
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Iriorne that is a great looking G. One day I will get to building and lighting my Mobius Vipers.
This is an awesome thread with heaps of great tips
Question for you gurus, you guys have advocated the use of a gloss coat but I note that your finished kits have that wonderful worn appearance and looks very matt.
How is that achieved?
Flat clear on top to seal all your weathering. You can always add more weathering after the flat coat also.