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Thread: Eruntalon's Fortress Maximus H202 Restoration

  1. #1
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    Default Eruntalon's Fortress Maximus H202 Restoration

    The purpose of this thread is to document the progress I am making with the restoration of a recently acquired Fort Max body. The front is in great condition but the back has been yellowed due to sun damage. What I intend to do in the near future is to dismantle the parts and soak those that are most heavily affected in hydrogen peroxide.

    I was inspired to start this project as I had seen this achieved before on another Fort Max at thetf.net and following the success I had at restoring a slightly-yellowed Lady Giga Power Master figure.

    Some initial photo's showing the damage done to Fort Max:




    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

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    Here is a photo of Max's parts which you can use as a guide when you pull him apart:



    Here is the restoration of my own Fort Max - It is before we knew about the magical properties of H2O2

    I have some tips there on pulling him apart that may be of help:

    http://d343355.u107.fasthit.net/boar...hread.php?t=66

    Best of luck!

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    Liquid sanding sounds really dangerous! But technically so is restoring with H202 since it's still an experimental process. I can also understand your concerns over not turning Fort Max into a giant-sized kit bash project.

    Thanks for the photo's; I'll be photographing everything for myself as well and keeping all the parts in sealed baggies.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

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    Liquid sanding has fortunately become obsolete by the H2O2 and it's a lot of work anyway. It was good because it removed the yellowed layer of the toy without leaving marks but Fort Max's plastic reacted bad to it.

    However it did work awesomely well on my formally yellowed Red Alert:

    http://kupscigar.com/tf/x9.JPG

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    Ran into some trouble disconnecting part of the coning tower/waist big red lasers:




    The red plastic sections seems to be stuck in place to the gray plastic section via three metal studs on either side (one pictured, the other two hide underneath the remaining big laser assembly as pictured) which also seem to hold the die-cast center section in place.

    I may attempt to use the soldering iron technique on these to try and loosen them and some pliers but I'm not sure how they truly connect as I can't see the other side. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

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    I ran into the same problem while trying to disassemble my Max. As you can see in the parts photo, I never managed to disassemble it and simply protected the red bits with hobby tape.

    Unfortunately the parts are indeed held together by not just screws but also through those metal studs as well as the pins holding the blue 'belt' buckle. I never tried to remove them so I am not sure if once taken out there won't be anything else holding it together but I don't think there is.

    My suggestion in this case when it comes to dealing with this issue in restoring the tower with H2O2 would be to find a jar tall and wide enough to contain it (I suspect you have since Max's other parts aren't small), close the tower and place it upside down in it so that the metal is on top. Fill the jar with the H2O2 but only until the blue plate so that it remains above the H2O2 so you don't risk metal/paint corrosion.
    Last edited by kup; 20th June 2010 at 12:05 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kup View Post
    this issue in restoring the tower with H2O2 would be to find a jar tall and wide enough to contain it (I suspect you have since Max's other parts aren't small), close the tower and place it upside down in it so that the metal is on top. Fill the jar with the H2O2 but only until the blue plate so that it remains above the H2O2 so you don't risk metal/paint corrosion.
    May I suggest a small fish tank instead?

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    Thanks guys. I intend to separate the blue metal plate entirely as I'm going to hammer out the pins, but I will be left with two gray and red plastic halves with some metal parts remaining. Hopefully these remaining metal parts won't start deteriorating in the chemicals.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eruntalon View Post
    Thanks guys. I intend to separate the blue metal plate entirely as I'm going to hammer out the pins, but I will be left with two gray and red plastic halves with some metal parts remaining. Hopefully these remaining metal parts won't start deteriorating in the chemicals.
    I am yet to see any deterioration (I have actually seen rusty screws cleaned up!) but that i only with a concentration of 6%. In theory, H2O2 is corrosive to metal but I think this is dependent on very high concentrations and very long term submersion (months).

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    Make some paste up instead. This is exactly why it's useful. You don't have to bath every part.
    Code:
    O o 
      _
     / --------------------------------
    |      IMMA FIRIN MA LAZAR!!!
     \_--------------------------------

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