Transformers questions by newbies, and not-so-newbies

[GoktimusPrime]

I really like the Monsterbot, Doublecross and his alt mode of a twin-headed dragon and it got me thinking, how many other double or multi-headed transformers are there?

Quickstrike from Beast Wars has two heads.

And that dog thing from the start of RiD who's name I've forgotten. Bruticus?

Yeah, it's Bruticus, who transforms into a Cerberus. The robot mode is also multi-headed too.

Others include:
+ Hun-Gurrr
+ Sinnertwin
+ Doubleheader
+ Gigatron (aka RiD Megatron) / Devil Gigatron (aka RiD Galvatron)

I love the way Doubleheader talks -- sometimes his heads talk independently, yet one head talks about the other head in first person (even but in a second person context!), other times Doubleheader's speech is divided between the two heads where one finishes off the other's sentence... sometimes they both cut in and say the same thing at the same time which seems to come at a surprise to both heads! Beast Wars Megatron technically isn't multi-headed, but if you look closely his beast-headed hand is often portrayed as another head. e.g. it looks at Megatron's head and Megatron occasionally pets/strokes it -- even brushes its teeth at one stage! There was also one time when Megatron's talking to someone else, but his beast head is intensely watching computer monitors -- thus allowing Megatron to focus on two different things at the same time and multitask!

[Sky Shadow]

I really like the Monsterbot, Doublecross and his alt mode of a twin-headed dragon and it got me thinking, how many other double or multi-headed transformers are there?

There are hundreds and hundreds of transformers with two or more heads if you really think about it. (Even if we just think about the 'US' G1 toys there are the Insecticons, Deluxe Insecticons, Hook in attack crane mode, the Dinobots, Devastator, Sky Lynx, Defensor, Hot Spot, Superion, Gnaw, Menasor, Bruticus, Predaking, the Predacons, Computron, the Headmasters, the Monsterbots, Abominus, Sixshot, the Targetmasters, the Powermasters, Quickswitch, Doubledealer, Piranacon and all the Pretenders [except for Roadgrabber and Gunnrunner.]

I'd start on Beast Wars, but it would do my head in. )

[GoktimusPrime]

I'd assumed that Mecklinger was talking about "proper" multi-headed moded Transformers, as opposed to Transformers who happen to have heads as alt mode kibble. Then there are 'multi-headed' vehicle modes, like G1 Slugslinger and Doubleheader.

[Sky Shadow]

I'd assumed that Mecklinger was talking about "proper" multi-headed moded Transformers, as opposed to Transformers who happen to have heads as alt mode kibble. Then there are 'multi-headed' vehicle modes, like G1 Slugslinger and Doubleheader.

Yep, I know what he meant, I was just pointing out that the actual answer to "how many other double or multi-headed transformers are there?" is "a lot."

[Batibot]

just a question guys i was just wondering what does mint, mosc, misb? and are there any other jargons i should know about? I might start collecting when i get back home to the philippines cos its so damn expensive here to start collecting tfs.

[christalcase]

just a question guys i was just wondering what does mint, mosc, misb? and are there any other jargons i should know about? I might start collecting when i get back home to the philippines cos its so damn expensive here to start collecting tfs.

not too sure about mint, I think it means good condition but out of box/card

MISB means Mint In Sealed Box, so it's never been opened (just like when you buy one from the shops), a variant is MOSC which means Mint On Sealed Card, which refers to figures sold on cardbacks (legends, scouts, deluxes etc)

I think there is also MIB, which is Mint In Box, so it's been opened but still in really good condition and it includes box

[liegeprime]

just a question guys i was just wondering what does mint, mosc, misb? and are there any other jargons i should know about? I might start collecting when i get back home to the philippines cos its so damn expensive here to start collecting tfs.

MINT - meaning still unopened or opened and/ or the condition of the item is as new, complete, no damage.

MISB - Mint in sealed box

MOSC - Mint on sealed card

[5FDP]

Just to add to that, there is also -

MOC - Mint On Card
MIP - Mint In Pack

You'll also come across grading systems like the one below -

C10 - Mint condition
C9 - Near Mint condition
C8 - Excellent condition
C7 - Very Good to Excellent condition
C6 - Very Good Condition
C5 - Good to Very Good condition
C4 - Good condition
C3 - Fair condition
C2 - Poor to Fair condition
C1 - Poor condition

[heroic_decepticon]

Just to add to that, there is also -

MOC - Mint On Card
MIP - Mint In Pack

You'll also come across grading systems like the one below -

C10 - Mint condition
C9 - Near Mint condition
C8 - Excellent condition
C7 - Very Good to Excellent condition
C6 - Very Good Condition
C5 - Good to Very Good condition
C4 - Good condition
C3 - Fair condition
C2 - Poor to Fair condition
C1 - Poor condition

in my mind, its more like...

C10 - Mint condition = great
C9 - Near Mint condition = good enough to have in collection
C8 - Excellent condition = acceptable
C7 - Very Good to Excellent condition = gotta look for a C9 piece
C6 - Very Good Condition = fail
C5 - Good to Very Good condition = unaccceptable
C4 - Good condition = unaccceptable
C3 - Fair condition = no way
C2 - Poor to Fair condition = this is not a toy
C1 - Poor condition = not a snowball's chance in hell

[GoktimusPrime]

Grading systems, like any other system of classification (like counting TFs) is highly arbitrary and subjective and there is no commonly agreed standard. So I wouldn't bother memorising it too much. My advice - from most recommended to least - would be:

1/ Buy toys from stores or fairs. Buying toys new from stores ensures that they're always MISB or MOSC, and purchasing from fairs allows you to physically inspect the toy and judge its condition for yourself.

2/ If you have to buy the toy online (e.g. if the toy isn't sold here) then I would advise purchasing from online stores like HLJ, BBTS etc. That way you're still getting everything MISB/MOSC.

3/ Buying a toy second hand online is least advisable. Avoid any sales that use stock photos - online purchase from dealers who've taken their own photos of the toys they're selling. But even then, photos can lie because they can be photographed from positions which hide certain flaws that some less scrupulous sellers don't bother describing. As such I find this to be the most hazardous form of toy-shopping and it's something I very seldomly do (I don't even have an eBay account).

and are there any other jargons i should know about?

As others have said, any toy that's never had the sticky tape (if it's a boxed toy) or blister (if it's carded) cut/opened is MISB/MOSC. If the tape is cut but the toy has barely been handled (if at all) then it's MIB. Some Japanese carded toys can be resealed after being opened, and that would make them MOC if they're still in mint condition.

The term "loose" is used to describe any toy that's been opened, regardless of condition. So an unsealed toy in mint condition is often described as LM (loose mint) - and there's LMIB (loose mint in box) and LMOC (loose mint on card) to be more specific. What most people define as "mint" is around what most people describe as C8-C9. Strictly speaking C10 (especially sealed C10s) is often described as a condition that exists in theory because in reality every box and card suffers some minor superficial damage such as micro-scrapes, nicks, scratches, buffs etc. that just comes from being handled, packaged, shipped and shelved. Even if you buy the toy direct from a dealer who doesn't have a shop front and keeps everything case fresh until they're ordered, there's still some damage from packaging and handling. Even moreso when they're removed from the original case and repacked for the customer (unless you order an entire case - but even then, there's still the original handling and packaging from the factory and shipping from China to USA or Japan etc.). As I said, toys on store shelves take a lot more damage because they're shelved. Stores often put price stickers on them which even if you carefully remove, still leaves a residual mark (some collectors will meticulously try to remove the glue's residue, but it's nearly impossible to completely remove it because some of it soaks into the cardboard). C10 is supposed to be a totally perfect and flawless toy... and the odds of finding absolute perfection are pret-ty slim.