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Thread: Ultra Magnus Cab Restore

  1. #1
    Join Date
    4th Jun 2009
    Location
    West Sydney
    Posts
    177

    Default Ultra Magnus Cab Restore

    hi fellow members,

    i have an old ultra magnus cab and i was planning on using it as my first restore project. Ive googled and searched on it and would like to know what u guys in your oppinion think is the best method.

    ive also posted teh pics of the trailor because i recon it needs abit of TLC
    Last edited by 16364279; 16th July 2009 at 03:31 PM.

  2. #2
    TheDirtyDigger Guest

    Default

    You have to tell us what's wrong with it first.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    4th Aug 2008
    Location
    The 'Riff
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    11,335

    Default

    Depends on what is wrong with him.

    Post any pics of him maybe?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    4th Jun 2009
    Location
    West Sydney
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    177

    Default

    ill take some pics

    how embarrassing lol i forgot the most important thing

  5. #5
    Join Date
    4th Aug 2008
    Location
    The 'Riff
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    11,335

    Default

    Haha dont worry bout it, I often forget to do things like that sometimes.

  6. #6
    TheDirtyDigger Guest

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    That looks like a cool project. I'd really enjoy restoring him myself.

    Anyway...

    1. Order reprolabels first. They might take a while so get your order underway.
    Here they are...http://www.reprolabels.com/Autobots/ultramagnus.asp
    $9usd + $2 usd postage.

    2. Remove the old stickers. This I would do with my nails first to get the bulk off. Once you've got as much off as you reasonably can off then I'd use some rubbing alcohol (cheap in hardware store) to get the residue off BUT PLEASE NOTE: It's ok to use on coloured plastic and even on painted metal but it will take the paint off painted plastic after a few vigourous rubs so be careful.

    3. Find a good white model paint. Skull White from Games Workshop is not bad. Now the paint wont apply as thickly as the factory paint so let the first coat dry then repeat the process as many times as you deem necessary. Also I would only paint the chipped parts in, not the whole bot.

    4. When your stickers come use instructions to make sure they are placed on the right parts and apply them with tweezers for precision.


    That's about it...it's all very simple and straightforward. If I think of anything else I'll post it.

    EDIT: 5. If you can remove the chrome parts (fuel tanks and smoke stacks) easily then do it then spray them lightly with some Super Chrome automotive paint from Big W ($11). Just not that this is not model paint and on different surfaces it will take varying times to dry. On that plastic though it should be reasonably fast.
    If you can't remove the parts then spray the paint into the cap and use a good model brush to paint the parts or mask the entire toy out and use the spray.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    2nd Jan 2008
    Location
    Quakers Hill
    Posts
    11,185

    Default

    Just additional to what digger has said

    1. When Painting the surfaces using spray on paint - if you cant remove any parts that isn't supposed to be painted in that colour (e.g. windows, smokestacks), best cover it well with masking tape then while the paint is almost dry remove it carefully.

    2. Of course get the missing parts for the cab and trailer. Good thing UM parts are easier to find on ebay these days than say pretender parts - based on the picture you just need well - UM head, waist plate/cab connector, chest plate, big and small fists, foot plates/ramp and his gun.

    3. Make sure before you spray paint of brush paint that the surface is cleaned up from grease and residue - use babywipes as this is gentle enough not to cause damage but give it a good ol elbow grease if quite dirty.

    4. Patience is a virtue, drying your coats before the next paint apps is a must. Otherwise you get a sloppy work turnout.

    5. Make sure to wear proper protective gear for your eyes, mask and do your spraying /painting in a well ventilated area. Also proper lighting helps.
    Wanted AM partner Vanguard, Myclones Dirge, G1 Victory Leo, e-hobby Dark scream ( the black version), e-hobby Magnificus
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    27th Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney NSW
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    37,637

    Default

    kudos on finding a G1 Ultra Magnus cab with rubber tyres and painted face with unbroken smokestacks!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    28th Dec 2007
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    NSW
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    Default

    That Magnus is in better condition than mine when I first bought him

    Diggers instructions are pretty good but I will add this:

    All you need is white and silver paint. Clean up the toy as much as you can and only paint the spots where the paint has chipped - Don't paint over existing factory paint. You'd be surprised how much just a few paint chips take away from the look of the toy and covering them up with a paint pen would be enough to bring it back to a decent condition. Your toy is not as chipped as it looks, its a quick paint job to fix.

    If the white plastic has yellowed bathe it in Hydarogen peroxide for a few days but you need to disassemble the figure for this as Peroxide is corrosive to metal.

    http://www.otca.com.au/boards/showth...light=peroxide

    Do the same with the silver paint, don't paint all over do only the bits were it has worn. Only paint it all if you can get that magical chrome paint everyone is talking about.

    The next step is to hit ebay for accessories and reprolabels as Digger mentioned
    Last edited by kup; 18th July 2009 at 10:53 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    4th Jun 2009
    Location
    West Sydney
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    177

    Default

    you guys are champions.

    in regards to the chrome parts, because i will be spray painting them will it be okay to spray the whole part even though the paint isnt fully chipped?

    what would be the best way to clean the trailor apart from baby wipes to bring out some of the colour ?

    so skull white paint + super chrome automotive paint is the best stuff for him ?

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