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  1. #1
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    I've been having some major issues lately with Fortress Maximus. There is absolutely no sun where I live in Victoria and I have damaged a piece of Fort Max by leaving it in H202 for more than 2 weeks. A light gray part which fits onto the back has become bleached speckled white and I cannot reverse this.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eruntalon View Post
    I've been having some major issues lately with Fortress Maximus. There is absolutely no sun where I live in Victoria and I have damaged a piece of Fort Max by leaving it in H202 for more than 2 weeks. A light gray part which fits onto the back has become bleached speckled white and I cannot reverse this.
    Please tell us exactly which part reacted badly to the H2O2 so that others who plan to restore their Fort Max can take note on it. Was it only that single part or did other grey areas also reacted bad to it?

    Sorry to hear about your part but it is not beyond hope if you try what I did to restore your Max.

    In regards to strong sunlight, it has also been a bit sketchy in Sydney when it comes to sunlight, this is why it has taken me so long to do that Scourge.

  3. #3
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    The part that reacted badly due to long time in H202 without any major sunlight as pictured:


    On this first image you will see that the yellow has all gone and the gray has been restored to its proper colour but there are tiny white dots all over. The area that is very light gray is where the sticker used to be and it had never yellowed - instead it has bleached the gray to a white/gray.


    The second image is worse in a way - the gray is bordering on being white and it is all blotchy. I have tried remedying this by using Brasso and rubbing it off (as is suggested on another forum) but this does nothing. I have also tried soaking the part in water, which seems to actually make the plastic return to its proper dark gray colour when submerged and wet. I am thinking that the plastic has become porous and is able to take on water but when dry it returns to its overly bleached-looking state.


    Again, more overly white specks on the gray.

    I used 35% strength H202 on these parts. I do not recommend this strength with parts exposed for as long as these have been (2 weeks at least) with minimal sun. From now on I'm going to be using a weaker strength such as 12%.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

  4. #4
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    35% for 2 weeks??
    damn dude... that is complete overkill! especially for coloured plastics.
    usually you take it out periodically, let it fully dry, have a look at it and then put it back if it needs more time.

    are your white parts super bright now?

    just out of curiosity but was the surface of the jar clean (i.e no sticky label residue to cast a shadow?) or was the surface of the plastic part clean?

    with the damaged grey part, the pictures dont look that bad to me, however without a proper comparison with some 'before' pics and a non yellowed FM pics, then i cant really tell for sure.

    does soaking the part in water permanently return the colour (i.e. still is a vibrant grey colour after it has been fully dried again over a few days) or is it only a temporary thing??

    But, if you are really bothered by it then one suggestion (which i have not tried yet) would be continue to bleach it until it is as light as possible then try to dye that part or paint over it. But just make sure to test with scrap pieces first until you get method right. As some people have found that they melted the plastic from being overzealous.

  5. #5
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    Man that sux, hope it can be restored somehow. If I still had my sun damaged FM, I would give it a go as well. (There should be one for sale at the Parra fair)

    Kup, would you be willing to take a couple of my damaged junkers to test them out? I want to do it, but just don't have the time to do it myself. Junker Slugslinger and Triggerhappy I have off the top of my head. I wonder how the painted faces will react to the acid.
    Last edited by kup; 20th August 2010 at 02:30 PM.

  6. #6
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    I am afraid that you can't do much with Decepticon targetmasters as you can't pull them apart as they are held together by pins. Also the plastic which they are made of has proven not to react well to the H2O2 as far as the targetmasters themselves are concerned.

    Edit: Sorry I accidentally clicked edit on your post when I tried to reply to it hence the 'edited by kup' line report at the bottom.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1 View Post
    Junker Slugslinger and Triggerhappy I have off the top of my head.
    how badly junker are they? if its just white parts yellowing then you can fix it. but if its the coloured parts that are yellowed then kup is right and there is little chance to repair it with H2O2 without causing fading.

    Quote Originally Posted by kup View Post
    I am afraid that you can't do much with Decepticon targetmasters as you can't pull them apart as they are held together by pins.
    what sort of pins are these? im curious to know what makes them so difficult to disassemble. Cos unless it is glued or fused together, then you should be able to take it apart right? i mean if people at the factory can put it together then in theory you can take it apart...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruticus View Post
    are your white parts super bright now?...

    ...just out of curiosity but was the surface of the jar clean (i.e no sticky label residue to cast a shadow?) or was the surface of the plastic part clean?...

    ...does soaking the part in water permanently return the colour (i.e. still is a vibrant grey colour after it has been fully dried again over a few days) or is it only a temporary thing?...
    Yes they are pretty good but not great as I haven't had good sun for aaaaages. Also I've noticed that ultra yellow parts on white plastic is a slightly darker shade than the rest of the white and I cannot get it to bleach back 100%.

    The jar was clean as can be.

    Soaking in water is only a temporary solution as once the parts dry again it goes back to its overly bleached state again.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1 View Post
    Man that sux, hope it can be restored somehow. If I still had my sun damaged FM, I would give it a go as well. (There should be one for sale at the Parra fair)
    If anyone knows about any local junker Fortress Maximus's or if anyone spots one and is willing to purchase one for the sake of splitting it up then I will gladly purchase these gray parts off of you that I need.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

  9. #9
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    I have 1Azrael1's yellowed '87 Targetmaster toys which I will attempt to clear up with H2O2.

    Slugslinger will be the first and as you can see, he is very yellowed. I will try the twin cockpit first and the rest of the body can serve as a control so that we can check the level of improvement.



    This test will likely take a few weeks or more as I use a very low concentration of H2O2 but I will post every couple of weeks to check on improvement.

  10. #10
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    Heh that is really bad ay.

    Well, I look forward to see what happens to it, may take quite some time to change anything.

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