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Thread: De-Chroming bits and pieces how to guide

  1. #1
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    Default De-Chroming bits and pieces how to guide

    I'm in the process of restoring an original G1 Galvatron, and part of that process involves the re-chroming of 3 of his 4 chrome parts (fortunately, his '4 pack' is faultless). Before I even think about applying any paint (I won't be using comparatively expensive plating techniques) I'll need to remove the chrome that is there, as seen below.



    To achieve this, I've gathered the following products:
    -Latex gloves (not pictured)
    -Easy-Off BAM @ $4.80
    -Paper Towel
    -Hard bristled Toothbrush
    -Small Container
    -Cotton wool bud (optional)



    Here are the steps taken to remove the chrome:
    Step 1: Put gloves on
    Step 2: Place the 3 parts into the small container
    Step 3: Pour enough Easy-Off BAM over the parts to cover them
    Step 4: Using the cotton wool bud and/or toothbrush, brush over the remaining chrome paint until all gone (there is no waiting period required, the chrome paint will come off easy peasy like taking Energon candy from a Minicon)
    Step 5: Wash the de-chromed parts in dishwashing detergent + warm water
    Step 6: Rinse them under cold water
    Step 7: Use paper towel to dry them off

    All done! Just look how happy Galvatron is with the results.


  2. #2
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    Nice tips, I have to try that sometime. What I find interesting is that one type of remover that I use (Dawn Power Dissolver) is really basic while the Easy Off is really acidic, if I read the contents correctly, but both do the same job.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamblor916 View Post
    Nice tips, I have to try that sometime. What I find interesting is that one type of remover that I use (Dawn Power Dissolver) is really basic while the Easy Off is really acidic, if I read the contents correctly, but both do the same job.
    Thanks Gamblor. Is Dawn Power Dissolver an oven cleaner? I've read that quite a few substances can do the job of de-chroming from oven cleaner and bleach to other things like brake fluid. Not sure how the others fare but I love the fact that BAM removes the chrome paint instantly, it's brill!

  4. #4
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    It was sold as something to clean pots and pans. I found it at a dollar store for well, a dollar, then it disappeared never to be seen again. Lucky I bought around 8 bottles

  5. #5
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    i have been using nail polish remover to strip the chrome. it works but you need quite a bit of it (cos it evaporates quickly). it also stinks like hell and can damage furniture like table tops if you spill it...
    might have to give Easy Off Bam or Dawn Power Dissolver a go instead.

    i bought a whole bunch of those Kosutte Gin-san powders and have been messing around with different things trying to get the technique right.

    on white plastic, the chrome has a yellowy tint depending on the viewing angle.
    on black and also blue plastic, it looks really dark.
    on flat plastic, the chrome is pretty dull so you definitely need glossy plastic.

    logically, i would assume that plastic with a glossy grey coat should give the best results so i'll give it a go next time. otherwise, i'll revert to applying more coats on the gloss black plastic and hopefully it will make it lighter.

  6. #6
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    How are you applying the primer, via an aerosol can or airbrush? If the latter, what are you thinning the paint with?

    I'll be using Tamiya Gloss Black & Tamiya thinner using an airbrush. I've read that using cheaper thinning alternatives (like Windex) will dull the gloss effect so are probably best avoided when using Kosutte Gin-san, Alclad 2 etc.

    Navy blue is meant to produce good results too, can't wait to experiment (come on posty, where's my airbrush already )!

  7. #7
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    Bruticus if you could post pics of your test results that would be great. I've just received my pack of Kosutte Gin-san but haven't tried it out yet.

  8. #8
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    Was just reading the below article on Alclad and the person recommends using Enamels for the best chrome primer rather than Acrylics...Gawd this stuff is confusing.

    For Highly Polished Aluminium use gloss black ACRYLIC. For Chrome use gloss black ENAMEL
    High shine finishes work best over black as this traps most of the light falling on it. The Chrome shade will only produce a robust chrome finish when applied over a dark gloss enamel base coat.

    Highly Polished Aluminium will produce best results when applied over gloss black acrylic-auto paint or model acrylics e.g Tamiya gloss black.
    http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.co...lad/TNT009.htm

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doubledealer View Post
    How are you applying the primer, via an aerosol can or airbrush?
    im using an airbush with tamiya acrylic gloss paints and thinning with methylated spirits. results are still shiny.

    let me know if using tamiya thinners produce a better result, otherwise im sticking to methylated spirits cos they are a hell of a lot cheaper and are also really great for cleaning the airbrush afterwards.

    Quote Originally Posted by gamblor916 View Post
    Bruticus if you could post pics of your test results that would be great. I've just received my pack of Kosutte Gin-san but haven't tried it out yet.
    i can if you want, but i have only been testing on scrap bits of plastic like plastic spoons, plastic forks and straws etc. not really exciting to show off as the real deal. when i move onto TF parts then i can post some up then.

    Quote Originally Posted by Doubledealer View Post
    Was just reading the below article on Alclad and the person recommends using Enamels for the best chrome primer rather than Acrylics...Gawd this stuff is confusing.

    http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.co...lad/TNT009.htm
    erm, too confusing. all i know is that you need to have a very good gloss finish to get the best results. the colour of the base coat is debatable.
    im sticking to acrylics for the time being and probably wont be trying alclad II yet.

    perhaps Gamblor can show us the effect of Kosutte Ginsan with automotive paints and enamels when he gets the chance?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruticus View Post
    im using an airbush with tamiya acrylic gloss paints and thinning with methylated spirits. results are still shiny.

    let me know if using tamiya thinners produce a better result, otherwise im sticking to methylated spirits cos they are a hell of a lot cheaper and are also really great for cleaning the airbrush afterwards.
    Will do. After having a couple of lengthy chats with the (very helpful) staff in the two CBD hobby stores I stuck to my guns and went with the enamels. From a health and safety POV I'll have to be more cautious (have a 3M half face respirator on its way w/P100 Niosh approved filters/carts), but it sounds like it'll be worth the effort. Apaprently the enamels dry a lot harder, produce a higher shine (both stores recommended using enamels for the higher gloss) and are less likely the 'gunk up' an airbrush/easier to clean. I bought a cheap plastic car model so I'll prep it, spray it and take some photo's in due course. Still waiting on the Kosutte Gin-San to arrive from Asia so photo's with that'll have to wait a while.

    Paints being used:
    -Mr Hobby Mr. White Surfacer 1000
    -Tamiya X-1 Enamel Gloss Black
    -Tamiya X-20 Enamel Paint Thinner (will use 1:1 ratio of paint/thinner)

    Edit: Changed the primer used...Seems one of the staff isn't as knowledgable as I first thought and sold me a substance used to dull gloss paint, instead describing it to me as a primer. I think I'll be going to the other place in future.
    Last edited by Doubledealer; 16th October 2010 at 07:36 PM.

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