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Thread: De-Chroming bits and pieces how to guide

  1. #11
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    Sorry for the poor quality/focus (shot was taken from my phone) but here is a pic after applying:

    1. 2 X coats of Mr Hobby Mr White Surfacer 1000
    2. 4 X dry mist coats of Tamiya Enamel Gloss black mixed 2:1 paint/thinner (didn't need as much thinner to achieve the 'milk-like' consistency as I first thought)
    3. 4 X wet coats of Tamiya Enamel Gloss black



    It's nice & shiny already but after I wait a week for the paint to properly cure I might also buff it up with a polishing kit. Really hope the Kosutte Gin-San arrives this week...

  2. #12
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    Is that a 1980 'vette? Looks good in any case. Buffing the paint after it cures in a week or two is a good idea too.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamblor916 View Post
    Is that a 1980 'vette? Looks good in any case. Buffing the paint after it cures in a week or two is a good idea too.
    Thanks Gambor. It's definitely a Corvette, as to whether it's from the 80's or not, I couldn't tell you (threw away the box, lol). What I find amazing with the airbrush is that despite it applying a coat of paint that looks so wet, it's dry to touch/not tacky after about 20 minutes. Is that the same story when using acryclics?

  4. #14
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    Not sure about acrylics, haven't used them for about 10 years. Also they stay a bit soft even after weeks of curing. Enamels and lacquers are better in that they harden up and you can polish them.

  5. #15
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    Can you recommend a good method for the buffing? I have a couple of unused silver polishing cloths on my workbench, do you think using one of them would be enough or is it worth buying one of those Tamiya kits with the bottles or similar?

  6. #16
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    Chrome really shows off the flaws so I'd go for a paste or liquid compound after you get rid of dust and imperfections with 1000-1200 wet and dry paper.
    This is the stuff I use but there's good stuff from Tamiya, Hasegawa and others. Just search for compound or polish.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamblor916 View Post
    Chrome really shows off the flaws so I'd go for a paste or liquid compound after you get rid of dust and imperfections with 1000-1200 wet and dry paper.
    This is the stuff I use but there's good stuff from Tamiya, Hasegawa and others. Just search for compound or polish.
    Thanks for the tips, Gamblor. I'm always confused when people mention wet and dry paper though...I've got 1000 grit Tamiya sandpaper, so if I use this on the bonnet while under cold running water is that the same thing or is it special wet only paper you're talking about? Would love to have that cleared up!

    I will investigate this compound & polish of which you speak. Thanks again mate.

  8. #18
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    Basically if it doesn't fall apart when wet then you can use it with water
    I pick mine up from the local auto supplies store. It should be very easy to find.
    I just sand stuff under a dripping tap to wash away all the particles.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamblor916 View Post
    Basically if it doesn't fall apart when wet then you can use it with water
    I pick mine up from the local auto supplies store. It should be very easy to find.
    I just sand stuff under a dripping tap to wash away all the particles.
    So just to clarify, you could do the following and end up with a nice shiny surface?

    1. Spray final wet coat of gloss enamel paint and leave plastic to cure for a week
    2. While under running cold water, sand the painted plastic with 1000 grit wet/dry paper (any technique required in terms of how you sand?)
    3. Buff back to a high shine with polishing kit (like the one you've linked to)

    That sound about right?

  10. #20
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    That sounds good. The only point I would make is to use the paper just to get rid of any dust and irregularities. You wouldn't want to put more scratches on your finish (and require more work to get rid of them).

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