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  #81  
Old 9th July 2010, 07:41 PM
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sorry, it may have been labelled "blacklight". dont know for sure as i threw away the package.

but mine looks a bit like this:


should be in the light bulb section of bunnings. how big is your bunnings? cos it could just be that some of the smaller stores may not have it in stock.
but if you want to buy from somewhere else, then i cant see why not as you probably just need an ordinary blacklight/UV light source.

Just a couple of tips i used when working with the UV bulb (*FYI: these are just my opinions and by no means are they the correct way to do things):
--since i dont know what the long term effects of exposure to the artificial UV light can do, i try to limit direct contact with UV light to as minimum as possible, until someone can prove otherwise. (better safe than sorry)
--wear UV protective glasses (sunnies).
--shield off as much stray UV rays as possible just in case parts of your house get damaged (walls, doors, appliances etc).
--i use a motorised display turntable to rotate the glass bowl regularly for even UV exposure on the sides of the jar/bowl
--for the plastic parts that always floats facing the bottom of the glass jar/bowl due to buoyancy, they are hard to expose with the UV, so i ended up using two spare shelves in my detolf cabinet. put the UV light on the lower level shelf aiming it up and put the jar/bowl on the top shelf directly above it. that way the bottom of the jar/bowl now gets direct exposure.

Hopefully that should give you a few things to think about and you should be able experiment with different options to find a way that works best for you.

good luck with the fort max project!
Thanks again. I'm having some trouble lately as there is hardly any sunlight.
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  #82  
Old 18th August 2010, 10:42 PM
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Here is a comparative shot of the color restoration of the Scourge I am currently working on. It shows just how much of the 'yellow' clears up after a part is soaked on H2O2 for about 4 days. It's not perfect but it's one heck of an improvement.



(The stringy plastic thing is something that just fell on it. I didn't realize until after I took the photo)
Here is an progression update on restoring this Scourge:



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  #83  
Old 18th August 2010, 11:05 PM
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I've been having some major issues lately with Fortress Maximus. There is absolutely no sun where I live in Victoria and I have damaged a piece of Fort Max by leaving it in H202 for more than 2 weeks. A light gray part which fits onto the back has become bleached speckled white and I cannot reverse this.
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  #84  
Old 18th August 2010, 11:14 PM
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I've been having some major issues lately with Fortress Maximus. There is absolutely no sun where I live in Victoria and I have damaged a piece of Fort Max by leaving it in H202 for more than 2 weeks. A light gray part which fits onto the back has become bleached speckled white and I cannot reverse this.
Please tell us exactly which part reacted badly to the H2O2 so that others who plan to restore their Fort Max can take note on it. Was it only that single part or did other grey areas also reacted bad to it?

Sorry to hear about your part but it is not beyond hope if you try what I did to restore your Max.

In regards to strong sunlight, it has also been a bit sketchy in Sydney when it comes to sunlight, this is why it has taken me so long to do that Scourge.
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  #85  
Old 20th August 2010, 01:14 AM
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The part that reacted badly due to long time in H202 without any major sunlight as pictured:


On this first image you will see that the yellow has all gone and the gray has been restored to its proper colour but there are tiny white dots all over. The area that is very light gray is where the sticker used to be and it had never yellowed - instead it has bleached the gray to a white/gray.


The second image is worse in a way - the gray is bordering on being white and it is all blotchy. I have tried remedying this by using Brasso and rubbing it off (as is suggested on another forum) but this does nothing. I have also tried soaking the part in water, which seems to actually make the plastic return to its proper dark gray colour when submerged and wet. I am thinking that the plastic has become porous and is able to take on water but when dry it returns to its overly bleached-looking state.


Again, more overly white specks on the gray.

I used 35% strength H202 on these parts. I do not recommend this strength with parts exposed for as long as these have been (2 weeks at least) with minimal sun. From now on I'm going to be using a weaker strength such as 12%.
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  #86  
Old 20th August 2010, 01:49 PM
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35% for 2 weeks??
damn dude... that is complete overkill! especially for coloured plastics.
usually you take it out periodically, let it fully dry, have a look at it and then put it back if it needs more time.

are your white parts super bright now?

just out of curiosity but was the surface of the jar clean (i.e no sticky label residue to cast a shadow?) or was the surface of the plastic part clean?

with the damaged grey part, the pictures dont look that bad to me, however without a proper comparison with some 'before' pics and a non yellowed FM pics, then i cant really tell for sure.

does soaking the part in water permanently return the colour (i.e. still is a vibrant grey colour after it has been fully dried again over a few days) or is it only a temporary thing??

But, if you are really bothered by it then one suggestion (which i have not tried yet) would be continue to bleach it until it is as light as possible then try to dye that part or paint over it. But just make sure to test with scrap pieces first until you get method right. As some people have found that they melted the plastic from being overzealous.
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  #87  
Old 20th August 2010, 01:57 PM
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Man that sux, hope it can be restored somehow. If I still had my sun damaged FM, I would give it a go as well. (There should be one for sale at the Parra fair)

Kup, would you be willing to take a couple of my damaged junkers to test them out? I want to do it, but just don't have the time to do it myself. Junker Slugslinger and Triggerhappy I have off the top of my head. I wonder how the painted faces will react to the acid.
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  #88  
Old 20th August 2010, 02:30 PM
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I am afraid that you can't do much with Decepticon targetmasters as you can't pull them apart as they are held together by pins. Also the plastic which they are made of has proven not to react well to the H2O2 as far as the targetmasters themselves are concerned.

Edit: Sorry I accidentally clicked edit on your post when I tried to reply to it hence the 'edited by kup' line report at the bottom.
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  #89  
Old 20th August 2010, 04:49 PM
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Junker Slugslinger and Triggerhappy I have off the top of my head.
how badly junker are they? if its just white parts yellowing then you can fix it. but if its the coloured parts that are yellowed then kup is right and there is little chance to repair it with H2O2 without causing fading.

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I am afraid that you can't do much with Decepticon targetmasters as you can't pull them apart as they are held together by pins.
what sort of pins are these? im curious to know what makes them so difficult to disassemble. Cos unless it is glued or fused together, then you should be able to take it apart right? i mean if people at the factory can put it together then in theory you can take it apart...
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  #90  
Old 20th August 2010, 04:59 PM
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Quite a few parts on them are damaged. I'd have to have another look at them to go into detail. I'll bring them to the Parra fair anyway just so we can have a look at them. I just want to use them as test subjects to see some of the effects. I bought them at a local trash and treasure market a long while back.

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Edit: Sorry I accidentally clicked edit on your post when I tried to reply to it hence the 'edited by kup' line report at the bottom.
Heh, I had noticed that and thought, what did I do wrong?

All good.
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