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Thread: Whitening yellowed toys with Hydrogen Peroxide

  1. #131
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    Sorry if this has been answered before but does anyone know how chrome paint and clear plastic are affected by H202?

  2. #132
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    Very badly, you lose all your chrome I believe and the clear plastic becomes a smokie mess

  3. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1orion2many View Post
    Very badly, you lose all your chrome I believe and the clear plastic becomes a smokie mess
    Has the clear plastic reaction been proven? If so, are there photos of the actual results? Smokey may be a better alternative than an orange yellow loook if even all over.

  4. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1orion2many View Post
    Very badly, you lose all your chrome I believe and the clear plastic becomes a smokie mess
    Woah, thanks for the heads up mate. I might try to seal the chrome part (which I can't remove) I need to bathe in H202 in Tamiya modelling tape and see how that goes. If it seeps through I'll just have to go to more effort and use Kosutte Gin-San.

    Hey Kup, I read that for clear plastics you can actually restore them by wet/sanding them then buffing the part using toothpaste and a wet t-shirt. Apparently it's a slow process, you have to hold the part under running cold water while you sand going from 600 to 2000 grit sandpaper. Finally, to get the transparency back you use a mild abrasive (thus the toothpaste, the 'whitening' stuff is better apparently) and buff the hell out of it using the wet t-shirt. I'm going to attempt this soon to fix up some scratched G1 car screens (moving to finer grades of snadpaper only when the scratches are completely gone). I'll write a more detailed guide with pictures assuming it works.

  5. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doubledealer View Post
    I read that for clear plastics you can actually restore them by wet/sanding them then buffing the part using toothpaste and a wet t-shirt. Apparently it's a slow process, you have to hold the part under running cold water while you sand going from 600 to 2000 grit sandpaper. Finally, to get the transparency back you use a mild abrasive (thus the toothpaste, the 'whitening' stuff is better apparently) and buff the hell out of it using the wet t-shirt. I'm going to attempt this soon to fix up some scratched G1 car screens (moving to finer grades of snadpaper only when the scratches are completely gone). I'll write a more detailed guide with pictures assuming it works.
    can you please send us a site to where you heard this from?

    ive polished metal before by using that technique (600 grit to 2000 grit or finer with different cross strokes). It polished up really well to a mirror finish, but from experience, it took quite a bit off the metal and any uneven strokes/pressure will cause uneven abrasion.
    so if you were attempting that technique on a thin plastic G1 car windshield then i doubt it will stand up to that method.

    how deep are your scratches/smokiness?? if they aren't too deep, perhaps you can try polishing compound (http://www.hlj.com/product/FNS55937)
    and then maybe toothpaste or a polishing cloth?
    i haven't tried it yet but it should be less damaging than sandpaper?

  6. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruticus View Post
    can you please send us a site to where you heard this from?
    http://themodelmakersresource.co.uk/...rticle010.html

    Quote Originally Posted by bruticus View Post
    ive polished metal before by using that technique (600 grit to 2000 grit or finer with different cross strokes). It polished up really well to a mirror finish, but from experience, it took quite a bit off the metal and any uneven strokes/pressure will cause uneven abrasion.
    so if you were attempting that technique on a thin plastic G1 car windshield then i doubt it will stand up to that method.

    how deep are your scratches/smokiness?? if they aren't too deep, perhaps you can try polishing compound (http://www.hlj.com/product/FNS55937)
    and then maybe toothpaste or a polishing cloth?
    i haven't tried it yet but it should be less damaging than sandpaper?
    Hmm, after hearing your experience with the polished metal I think you're probably right, the already thin G1 car windshield would most likely become paper thin or worse.

    I wouldn't say the scratches are particularly deep. They're more like frenzied surface scratches, kind of like the underside of a CD that hasn't been cared for all that well. Thanks for the HLJ link, I might have to try the polishing compound out sometime!

  7. #137
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    Well heres my first attempt at using H2O2, the jar was in the sun for 3 1/2 hours. Pretty good but I'm still at the same level I was 20 years ago for applying stickers

    Before


    After


    Comparison with another taiwan scourge - repo decepticon logos arn't as purple as the originals.

  8. #138
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    it's looking very good!

  9. #139
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    Hmm maybe '87 toys can safely be whitened, provided they aren't super yellowed. Or is this an '86 figure?

  10. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oilspill View Post
    Hmm maybe '87 toys can safely be whitened, provided they aren't super yellowed. Or is this an '86 figure?
    Scourge is '86. Not sure what difference that would make though.

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