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Thread: How To Fix Stress Marks

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lordy View Post
    Thanks for the tip, I have a Classics Hot Rod who has stress marks on him, will be nice to tidy him up.
    Be super careful, as I said his plastic seems more susceptible to melting and if it's near any joints try and keep them moving as you do it to ensure they don't warp/expand. I've heard the newer BIS Hot Rod has cheaper feeling plastic too, so that might be even worse.

    Also as a general note, I think most hair dryers come with an attachment to narrow the airflow, like the bit in the bottom of this pic:


    I've been using the attachment to help focus the flow.

  2. #22
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    I think that the reason why the stress mark disapears is because you are actually melting a thin surface layer of the plastic which covers up the opened gaps formed when the plastic was stressed (stretched).

    Despite Backoptimus' mishap, this method still seems very sound for fixing stress marks. Naturally a careful hand, common sense and measured application is needed when executing it so be very careful.

  3. #23
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    I would also suggest cutting a shape out of a piece of paper or card to hold near the stress mark to further focus the stream of hot air. won't be perfect but it may help, especially in locations near thinner panels that may warp easier.

  4. #24
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    Hmmm never mind then, I think I wont try it with powerglide... I can live with the stress mark but not with a melted figure.. the position the mark is iin is quite hard to get so I'd rather leave it than be sorry....
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  5. #25
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    Fixed the living hell out of a stress marked shoulder flap on my DOTM Skyhammer using this technique.
    I'm really just here for the free food and open bar.

  6. #26
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    This is brilliant!

  7. #27
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    Science wins again
    Great thread, way to go

  8. #28
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    8th Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by liegeprime View Post
    Hmmm never mind then, I think I wont try it with powerglide... I can live with the stress mark but not with a melted figure.. the position the mark is iin is quite hard to get so I'd rather leave it than be sorry....
    Curl and tape a piece of paper into a cone, cut off just the barest end of the tip, and hold it right up to (but not touching) the area you want to heat. Bring the dryer closer to the open end of the cone to crank up the heat, and back it off a bit to take things slowly.

  9. #29
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    I tried this on my G1 Devastator waist connector piece as one of the tabs where scrapper connects got a stress mark. I did this with my hairdryer and a cone of thick paper for several minutes and it didn't work for me My hands were almost burning from holding the paper !! lol so be warned

    Used a pair of scissors in the end to hold the paper.

  10. #30
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    9th Jan 2008
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    Just tried this on my Hotrod's elbows from the 2 pack (with Cyclonus) and it worked great.

    I have a few more to try now

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