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Thread: Whitening yellowed toys with Hydrogen Peroxide

  1. #51
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    Bruticus, how are you obtaining your 30% concentration H202 if you don't mind me asking? Do you have connections with a laboratory?


    On another note, I'm also going to be posting up my 'Operation Restore Fortress Maximus with H202' in this thread soon.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruticus View Post
    My results are based on 35% H2O2 and after ~9-12 hrs indoors with a UV lamp.
    However, theHandsomeCrab has said earlier that he only needed to use it for a couple of hours to work, so even faster results are possible with the high strength H2O2!

    btw, are your scourges the ones with a light blue plastic on the top with a dark blue sticker or the ones with a factory standard dark blue plastic top and no sticker required??
    i'm interested to know if the dark blue plastic version fades or not.

    I'm also curious to know if the bubbles that are normally formed, inside the glass jar, are a resultant of a chemical process and indicates that the H2O2 is breaking down? If this is the case, then there is a chance that the H2O2 will lose its strength with multiple use. I dont know for sure, just speculating at the moment.

    Maybe someone here will know.
    I tried putting in a lightly 'greened' Scourge head canon which had its colored restored to blue pretty well. There was no fading.

    The spare Scourges that I am restoring are all sticker blue tops. Two are Targetmasters and one is '86.

    In regards to the Bubbles, from observation it seems that they are indeed responsible for restoring the plastic color. It forms several hundreds perhaps thousands of tiny bubbles all over the surface of the part. I have also noticed that although you can reuse the H2O2 multiple times, it eventually looses its effect and you can notice that by a lack of bubbles. I believe this is when the H2O2 has simply become plain H2O. It is possible that this happens because some of the O2 escapes from the jar as vapor when bubbling.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eruntalon View Post
    Bruticus, how are you obtaining your 30% concentration H202 if you don't mind me asking? Do you have connections with a laboratory?
    TheHandsomeCrab helped me with finding this. He and I both bought from a seller on ebay:
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FOOD-GRADE-Hy...item20ac707d9c

    It works out to be cheaper per volume, per percentage concentration than buying from your local pharmacy. but Max of 1L per shipment though.

    Just remember to wear rubber gloves and goggles when handling!!
    when i was opening the parcel for the first time, i didnt realise that the seal on the bottle was leaking a bit and accidentally got some on my fingers.... it turned my skin white for a while and was freaken itchy, which freaked me out... luckily the reaction was only temporary and everything was good afterwards.

    Quote Originally Posted by Eruntalon View Post
    On another note, I'm also going to be posting up my 'Operation Restore Fortress Maximus with H202' in this thread soon.
    Oooh. cant wait to see.
    Btw, will you be using the bath technique or the gel technique??
    cos bathing it will required several litres of H2O2. Unless you plan on diluting the concentrated stuff, it might end up pretty costly.

  4. #54
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    So there is no problems with importing the H2O2 from overseas? It seems like something that would annoy customs.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by kup View Post
    So there is no problems with importing the H2O2 from overseas? It seems like something that would annoy customs.
    No problems with importing into australia.
    If you read his Q&A section, many people have asked the seller this, including myself.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by kup View Post
    I believe this is when the H2O2 has simply become plain H2O. It is possible that this happens because some of the O2 escapes from the jar as vapor when bubbling.
    So it should be fine to drink once there are no bubbles appearing?

    But seriously, I have got to try some of this stuff on some of my figures, but when I have money to do so. I have a severly yellowed junker Slugslinger, and want to see the effects on his paint, escpecially on his face.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1 View Post
    So it should be fine to drink once there are no bubbles appearing?

    But seriously, I have got to try some of this stuff on some of my figures, but when I have money to do so. I have a severly yellowed junker Slugslinger, and want to see the effects on his paint, escpecially on his face.
    Careful with the Targetmasters (the actual guns) - We have encountered a couple of problems in which the '87 blue discolors. I am not sure about the main toys.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by kup View Post
    Careful with the Targetmasters (the actual guns) - We have encountered a couple of problems in which the '87 blue discolors. I am not sure about the main toys.
    Yea I don't have any guns, so that's cool. This junker is pretty beaten up, so he is really just a test subject.

  9. #59
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    I bought some 35% H202 from the UK (thanks Bruticus and TheHandsomeCrab) and I am just waiting for it to arrive.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

  10. #60
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    Here is a comparative shot of the color restoration of the Scourge I am currently working on. It shows just how much of the 'yellow' clears up after a part is soaked on H2O2 for about 4 days. It's not perfect but it's one heck of an improvement.



    (The stringy plastic thing is something that just fell on it. I didn't realize until after I took the photo)

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