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Thread: Whitening yellowed toys with Hydrogen Peroxide

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruticus View Post
    what sort of pins are these? im curious to know what makes them so difficult to disassemble. Cos unless it is glued or fused together, then you should be able to take it apart right? i mean if people at the factory can put it together then in theory you can take it apart...
    I got home and checked it and I was mistaken. Got confused with an issue which is unique to my Slugslinger and mistakenly generalized it (old man memory ). My Slugslinger has rusted screws with the heads worn off acting as immovable pins.

    However my warning still stands, the plastic is of that glossy type which has shown bad reactions to H2O2 on other toys and the targetmasters have shown to have faded colors as a result. I am happy to try to clear up your junkers but there is a considerable risk of damage involved so you know.

  2. #92
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    They are pretty crappy junkers. Using the acid is by trial and error really, so I would rather test it on some bad ones rather than ones that are only slight. I have a good Slugslinger which I got at the last fair, the damaged one is just a spare junker. But if someone wants him for parts is fine

    I'll bring him along anyway.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruticus View Post
    are your white parts super bright now?...

    ...just out of curiosity but was the surface of the jar clean (i.e no sticky label residue to cast a shadow?) or was the surface of the plastic part clean?...

    ...does soaking the part in water permanently return the colour (i.e. still is a vibrant grey colour after it has been fully dried again over a few days) or is it only a temporary thing?...
    Yes they are pretty good but not great as I haven't had good sun for aaaaages. Also I've noticed that ultra yellow parts on white plastic is a slightly darker shade than the rest of the white and I cannot get it to bleach back 100%.

    The jar was clean as can be.

    Soaking in water is only a temporary solution as once the parts dry again it goes back to its overly bleached state again.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1 View Post
    Man that sux, hope it can be restored somehow. If I still had my sun damaged FM, I would give it a go as well. (There should be one for sale at the Parra fair)
    If anyone knows about any local junker Fortress Maximus's or if anyone spots one and is willing to purchase one for the sake of splitting it up then I will gladly purchase these gray parts off of you that I need.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

  4. #94
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    I have 1Azrael1's yellowed '87 Targetmaster toys which I will attempt to clear up with H2O2.

    Slugslinger will be the first and as you can see, he is very yellowed. I will try the twin cockpit first and the rest of the body can serve as a control so that we can check the level of improvement.



    This test will likely take a few weeks or more as I use a very low concentration of H2O2 but I will post every couple of weeks to check on improvement.

  5. #95
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    Heh that is really bad ay.

    Well, I look forward to see what happens to it, may take quite some time to change anything.

  6. #96
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    I hope the H2O2 can fix that leg, Azrael! (:


    Eagerly waiting for Masterpiece Meister

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirge View Post
    I hope the H2O2 can fix that leg, Azrael! (:
    Halleluiah I can walk again!! its a miracle H2O2!!
    Wanted AM partner Vanguard, Myclones Dirge, G1 Victory Leo, e-hobby Dark scream ( the black version), e-hobby Magnificus
    Parts- AM partner Basher-side guns, G1 Actionmaster Elite Windmill's blades[I][B]

  8. #98
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    Improvement so far. It was much quicker than I thought which is unusual:



    There is still a long way to go and although I am confident that the plastic will clear up to something very close to it's original color, the danger of surface defects is still a possibility. This is due to some '87 toys that have proven not to take the H2O2 too well.

    On another note, I think that I have been given something stronger than the usual 6% concentration of H2O2. I touched the part while it was yet to fully dry and this is what happened to my fingers:



    I have touched the H2O2 before with nothing happening but this is the first time I have seen a skin reaction. Apparently this is the result of a localized embolism caused on the surface of the skin by the H2O2, it eventually clears up but it sure freaked me out.
    Last edited by kup; 19th September 2010 at 07:23 PM.

  9. #99
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    Wow, that's quite an improvement. And I too would be scared if my skin reacted like that, but at least it doesn't seem to be a lasting effect. For a moment, I thought it was something coming off the plastic itself before I read the comment

    And might have worked quicker because we have had some really sunny days recently, at least out my way. Quite warm as well.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1AZRAEL1 View Post
    ...And might have worked quicker because we have had some really sunny days recently, at least out my way. Quite warm as well.
    Yeah. Bring on the Sun! I have a whole stack of 12% concentrated H202 ready and waiting for the remainder of Fort Max.
    Wanted: G1 Liokaiser parts | unbroken G1 Smokescreen/Prowl/Bluestreak roofs | G1 Overlord tank barrel and tank orange cockpit canopy

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