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Thread: Spray Paints?

  1. #11
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    i never tried floor polish...cool info Iriorne i try that one next after i run out

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancalot View Post
    i never tried floor polish...cool info Iriorne i try that one next after i run out
    Good luck finding a decent acrylic floor polish. I tried a year or so back, very hot and miss.

  3. #13
    Iriorne is offline Rank 6 - Dedicated Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMHFConvoy"
    Good luck finding a decent acrylic floor polish. I tried a year or so back, very hot and miss.
    Yeah, very hard to know what you're actually getting in the bottle. I've tried to find out local alternatives a few times but gave up when it seemed like the recommended brands were perpetually unavailable.

    Quote Originally Posted by lancalot View Post
    i never tried floor polish...cool info Iriorne i try that one next after i run out
    If you're airbrushing, I believe windex is good for clean up - it's the ammonia, apparently. Let me know if you find anything good, in the mean time I think I'm gonna play it safe and stick to airbrushing Tamiya X-22.

  4. #14
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    Sorry but floor polish is for floors. If I want a gloss coat I use clear lacquers.
    Currently I use Gaianotes EX-3 clear. Good stuff.




  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamblor916 View Post
    Sorry but floor polish is for floors. If I want a gloss coat I use clear lacquers.
    Currently I use Gaianotes EX-3 clear. Good stuff.
    Cool...thanks for that gamblor .... i was looking for a good clear coat

  6. #16
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    do you need to thin it out for airbrush or just straight from the bottle?

  7. #17
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    I wouldn’t recommend floor polish as a final coat – it is really shiny – more so than a regularly available model gloss coat. At scale, I think it looks like glass rather than polished metal.

    I think a floor polish coat is more commonly favoured to accommodate decaling (the super smooth surface significantly reduces the risk of silvering) and protects the paint job when weathering. Once they’re applied, the model is often given a coat of another finish to dull it down as appropriate (though you can mix a matting agent into the polish and use that…).

    I only use it on canopies and windows to hide imperfections and give them a glassy shine. I still just use gloss clear coat for decaling and washing. The polish I use is "Long Life" and clears typically Mr Color/Gunze/Tamiya/Humbrol (depending on what I'm applying them over and what I'm gonig to be applying over them.)

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancalot View Post
    do you need to thin it out for airbrush or just straight from the bottle?
    It needs to be thinned with lacquer thinners. Mr Color levelling thinner is really good.

  9. #19
    Iriorne is offline Rank 6 - Dedicated Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamblor961 View Post
    Sorry but floor polish is for floors. If I want a gloss coat I use clear lacquers.
    What type of paints do you use it with? I thought it was generally inadvisable to put lacquers over enamel or acrylic as the solvent will eat your paint?

    Quote Originally Posted by Stug View Post
    I wouldn’t recommend floor polish as a final coat – it is really shiny – more so than a regularly available model gloss coat. At scale, I think it looks like glass rather than polished metal.
    Yup, it's a good way to seal paint and weathering effects but the high gloss finish isn't really appropriate for most subjects. Looks great on model cars when polished up well.

    What do you use to clean up Long Life? Sounds like you're getting good results.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iriorne View Post
    What type of paints do you use it with? I thought it was generally inadvisable to put lacquers over enamel or acrylic as the solvent will eat your paint?
    I probably should have put a disclaimer there. I use lacquers so if you mix and match paints you're going to have problems. You can use it over Tamiya spray cans, Mr Color, Gaianotes, Finishers etc.

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