Rank 8 - Deluxe Member
How hard can it be for them to retro mould a micromaster? geezmilions in profits and a silly little figure mould is what's hindering them.... no wonder 3rd party companies flourish. ;P HasTak should move their gaze away from Bumblebee for a second as it is not the start and end of Transformers Universe.
Wanted AM partner Vanguard, Myclones Dirge, G1 Victory Leo, e-hobby Dark scream ( the black version), e-hobby Magnificus
Parts- AM partner Basher-side guns, G1 Actionmaster Elite Windmill's blades[I][B]
Rank 3 - Basic Member
I'm thinking about picking up Takara's versions of FoC Magnus and Shockwave, but before I decide I'd like to see how the scale with Laser Prime. If somebody could take a pic of them (Magnus, Shockwave and Laser Prime) I'd be really grateful.
Rank 8 - Deluxe Member
Only two on that list I'm not getting are Tiger Track and G2 Sideswipe, man I've spent a lot on plastic crack this year.Originally Posted by UltraMarginal
Rank 8 - Deluxe Member
Rubbing alcohol will do it, but beware: it'll take of all the paint apps, very difficult to control (ie taking off some and leaving others). Also, some figures (such as the new Generations Springer) have large piece that are painted, rather than moulded in the colour, so it's easy to remove paint that you don't intend. And yet another potential issue is that it can make some clear pieces cloudy if you're not careful.
Practice whatever you're going to do on a junker first. That's absolutely a must.
Sometimes you're better off just painting over the top rather than taking paint off. And watch for rub points!
(While it might seem like I'm trying to scare you off, I'm really not
Rank 8 - Deluxe Member
Totally agree with M-bot , Also like to add that don't soak the figure , and be careful of the joints as it weaken the plastic if it flow into the cracks !! learnt the hard wayRubbing alcohol will do it, but beware: it'll take of all the paint apps, very difficult to control (ie taking off some and leaving others). Also, some figures (such as the new Generations Springer) have large piece that are painted, rather than moulded in the colour, so it's easy to remove paint that you don't intend. And yet another potential issue is that it can make some clear pieces cloudy if you're not careful.
Practice whatever you're going to do on a junker first. That's absolutely a must.
Sometimes you're better off just painting over the top rather than taking paint off. And watch for rub points!
(While it might seem like I'm trying to scare you off, I'm really not, you should just soak the cloth or towel then wipe it that way... But you should just rub off the glossy finish will do ...using either alcho or (50/50 paint thinner/lacquer thinner) to prepare the figure for a base coat first ...
Rank 8 - Deluxe Member
Rubbing alcohol will do it, but beware: it'll take of all the paint apps, very difficult to control (ie taking off some and leaving others). Also, some figures (such as the new Generations Springer) have large piece that are painted, rather than moulded in the colour, so it's easy to remove paint that you don't intend. And yet another potential issue is that it can make some clear pieces cloudy if you're not careful.
Practice whatever you're going to do on a junker first. That's absolutely a must.
Sometimes you're better off just painting over the top rather than taking paint off. And watch for rub points!
(While it might seem like I'm trying to scare you off, I'm really notSo: rubbing alcohol, keep it away from other paint apps and don't soak. Got it.Totally agree with M-bot , Also like to add that don't soak the figure , and be careful of the joints as it weaken the plastic if it flow into the cracks !! learnt the hard way
I'm actually looking to remove the excess apps from my TFC Superion. I reckon it'll make him look heaps better if the combined colour scheme is plainer. Looking mainly to remove the excess yellow on the limbs.
Dovie'andi se tovya sagain
Rank 8 - Deluxe Member
Which is a more accurate representation of the show character: FE or AM Prime Arcee?
Dovie'andi se tovya sagain
Rank 3 - Basic Member
If scale matters to you then RiD Arcee, if show accuracy (paint apps mostly) matters more then FE Arcee. Pretty good mould comparison here: http://ericsyard.blogspot.com.au/201...robots-in.html
AM Arcee is inferior to RiD Arcee imo.
Rank 8 - Deluxe Member
I have FE Arcee and I've seen/handled TFPRiD Arcee IRL and IMO:
+ FE Arcee: not as screen-like, but a better engineered/designed toy
+ TFPRiD Arcee: not as well a designed toy, but more screen-accurate
Trent: if you like, I can bring my FE Arcee when next we meet, and maybe someone else can bring their TFPRiD Arcee - then you can compare the two before making a purchase decision. Try before you buy.
Rank 8 - Deluxe Member
Curious as to why. I thought they were the same mould, just the as-always more accurate Takara colour scheme.
I am after screen accuracy here. But PRiD fails in the colour department. If I can last that Lon ill take you up on that GokI have FE Arcee and I've seen/handled TFPRiD Arcee IRL and IMO:
+ FE Arcee: not as screen-like, but a better engineered/designed toy
+ TFPRiD Arcee: not as well a designed toy, but more screen-accurate
Trent: if you like, I can bring my FE Arcee when next we meet, and maybe someone else can bring their TFPRiD Arcee - then you can compare the two before making a purchase decision. Try before you buy.
Dovie'andi se tovya sagain
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